Added: 1 year ago
From: roadragecustoms
Views: 32,129
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  • Ya I wondered bout the RTV and the Impact

  • Sometimes it's worth while to replace the bearing and crush sleeve and reset the preload on the pinion just to be sure.

  • Thank you for this vid. It's no BS. All detailed and explained well enough without any non-sense. Straight and to the point. Excellent!

  • Thanks a bunch for this. Helps out a ton.

  • Thank you for this video .

  • wow 6 and a half minutes ... i was thinking it was gonna take most of my morning :O)

  • could i use these same instructions to change the yoke itself?

  • @boomstickkid Yes, you can.

  • Great video!!! Inspired me to replace the seal on my Paj myself.. It really was a simple job. The only extra thing I did was clean the diff breather. A week later and no more leak!!

  • Is the shock absorber bad too in because the up and down movement of the vehicle is not stopping.

  • @richu27 The whole vehicle was rocking. The legs of the lift flex a little bit.

  • I would just like to add that is NOT a good way to check a u-joint... it actually needs to be taken loose.

  • A couple of things I've never seen done should be pointed out to anyone who hasn't done this before; never use RTV sealant anywhere for this repair; not that it will hurt anything, but it will make a mess when the next guy has to remove the pinion seal again. I would not recommend anyone use an impact wrench for putting the pinion nut back on, a new nut should be used also. A beam type torque wrench should be used before and after to check preload on the pinion bearing however it's OK this way.

  • @grayjiang but its ok to use rtv seal on the differential plate when completely emptying out old fluid for new fluid in order to maintain a proper seal..i doubt the rubber seal alone is sufficient..correct me if im wrong.

  • Comment removed

  • that looked hecka easy. ive been leaking and adding fluid for a while. i might rent that puller and go ahead and replace the seal. thanks

  • Great tips thanks!

  • Thanks.

  • Not technically correct. You didn't measure turning torque beforehand (using the Chrysler method you go back +5 inch lbs. Using your method you should have told them to go slightly past the mark to maintain original tightness on the crush sleeve as threads stretch every time they are tightened.

  • Thanks for letting me know

  • Great video, well lit work area, good concise instructions and straight forward no BS approach to problem. You should be teaching this stuff, well done and keep up the good work.

  • I feel dumb for asking but when would you determine that you need to replace the seal? Leaks

  • @Diezeltube Yes, this one was definitely leaking. The outside of the diff was wet, especially on the front around the seal.

  • im pretty sure there is a torq spec for the pinion nut, so u really dont have to count the threads(correct me if im wrong)

  • @chevyblazer1987 Yes, there is a torque spec. No, we don't know if the last person who assembled it exceeded it or not. Insufficient torque would cause looseness & premature seal failure. Excess torque could cause premature bearing failure. Not to mention these are all used parts (except the seal) that, due to rust, may require additional torque to get the parts back in the same spot.

  • do i have to drain the diff oil out to do this

  • @hp11208 It is best to pull the cover on the rear to drain it all before changing the seal. If you have fluid running out the front when you pull the seal like I did, you must have it clean & dry before installing the seal, or you may have a repeat problem.

  • I'm curious how you determine which RTV to use. I did a waterpump and thermostat on a SBC a couple days ago, and used black based on yer video, and it worked great. Is it all just temp based?

  • @beefystik I always prefer black RTV, except for some exhaust gaskets, where I prefer red. Gray is my second favorite for general use & it's all I had at the time I made this video.

  • If the entire pinion moves all around, it's not always the bearings, at least I don't know about these newer Chevs, but my '88 Ford F150 had that. When I poped everything out, bearings look great, so I replaced the pinion collapsible spacer, and it was good to go, torqued and on the road I go!

  • What did you use to clean the metal from oil?

  • @mrjost55 I used non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner.

  • you have a weird intro, but the videos are good.

  • good vid.

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