Added: 1 year ago
From: jedi09
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  • How did you like the G-force crossmember? Did you still have to cut a bit of the floor brace? Nice looking car, hope you get the gremlins worked out.

  • @BadBowtie91 Thanks! And yes the car runs beautifully now, I just need to finish installing the Painless Fuse box/wiring kit.

    I love the cross-member, it allows you to run the exhaust nice and tight to the floor due to the design. I had the floor cut out prior to getting the cross-member but after install there was plenty of clearance so I'm pretty sure cutting the floor isn't needed.

  • i want to knoe where did he buy his Cluster and for how much!

  • @richkid363 I got it from a guy off Ebay (search 70 camaro aluminum dash panel. It came with the holes pre-cut and was around $90 plus S&H. The gauges were not included ofcourse.

  • @jedi09  The Gauges How Much Did You Pay For Those?

  • @richkid363 I bought them seperately for around $600-$700 but Summit Racing currently has all six guages in a pachage for just over $500. Search item number 07-0002.

  • @jedi09 Were they hard to install? this is my first car and im only 15

  • @richkid363 They wewre not very hard to install if you know a little about car electronics. This was the first time I did this sort of thing too. Just remember, some gauges (such as the tachometer) come in electric and mechanical. My specific 6-speed transmission required ELECTRONIC but the stock trannys in these cars require MECHANICAL. Something to pay attention to. Good luck!!

  • 2124spike and maybe ur rpm had switchs 4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl.. back of tach rpm..

  • 2124spike, rpm white wire is for light.. red go to power, black to ground, green go to tach wire or disburator if u use hei disburator

  • I would think that the 650 double pumper may be a tad too much for this motor (not the cfm rating) in its current state however it could be that with the low compression and small cam this carb could be tuned to that current configuration...I believe that as you increase compression and add heads slighly more cam etc. you wont need to change the carb either only its tune. remember the more effecient you make the engine the less cfm it will need until the demand rises with abtuse power levels.

  • @7REDDRACO7 You're absolutely right. I used a calculator and a 550-600 would have been more than enough. But like you said, I don't want to buy a new carb a few months from now when I build up the motor. 8-)

  • hi dude i have a problme with my rpm i have a autometer cobalt and i instal but my rpm doesnt go up i conected with a white cabel in my dash i have a camaro 1978 ..how dide you conect your rpm gauge let me know thnx dude

  • maybe the accelerator pump in the carb is not working???

  • how "new" is the Dp carb?

    dude really? yes you need a fuel pump with a fuel return line. wow. slap whoevers gettin your parts with powder. yea some fuel pumps need no return, but in your case i would get one. and have you seen if youre getting fuel while you where cranking? did you check voltage at your coil?

  • Thanks man I appreciate your help I wish I could help you with fuel issue but i know my fuel filter is on the motor not in the tank its a inline one cause I have a carb now not the crossfire injection

  • where did you get your a/c delete cover at I have an 84 trans am and the a/c was removed please can you help me

  • @jtmorse22 Sure no problem. Check these guys out, I bought it from them. It lets me use my stock blower motor to still run the heater or fan, so if you're missing the motor you're gonna have to patch the big hole.

    ACDeleteDOTcom

  • try cleaning you fuel tank.i had the same problem..

  • about how much did the driveshaft run you? Thats one pricey flywheel,......

  • @heavy71chevy I think you can shorten the stock driveshaft for under a hundred dollars, but i chose a 4" steel shaft with 1350 u-joints and chromoly yoke which ran me $200. If you chose this route, you will need to swap your rear differential yoke to 1350 also otherwise the driveshaft wont bolt to it. I found this out the hard way. Heres a link to the shaft I bought:

  • @heavy71chevy Sorry Youtube didn't let me post the link but search Flynbye Performance for the driveshaft.

  • What all was involved in your tranny swap?

  • @heavy71chevy

    You will need:

    -LT1 T56 with factory clutch, belhousing, and slave/master cylinder -Centerforce 700173 flywheel

    -American Touring Specialties clutch master firewall bracket

    -G-Force '75-'81 Camaro T56 crossmember

    -Custom driveshaft

    -Pedals out of a same year camaro 4-speed

    -You will need an electric speedo with this tranny (I chose Autometer)

    -Speed sensor, reverse lockout, and backup light harness from Ebay

    And of-course minor cutting of the shifter hole

  • Thanks for the replies, the cars currently getting tuned and timed. Anyone know if these F-bodies came with fuel filters in the tanks or under the car? Thanks again in advance

  • It has to be either something with your distributor not giving enough spark to burn the fuel or maybe your not gettin enough. I had that same problem on mine. Just double check everything.

  • my cutlass does the same thing, if its in the cold stomp on it when you start it up then light it idle back down and it should be fine

  • cold be happening if it's still cold and not warmer up, but if its even when hot then i couldn't tell ya

  • At 1:22 the engine dies after I hit the gas pedal, anyone have experience with carb'ed engines please??

  • @jedi09 yeah that happened to me a lot but i just changed the fuel filter and the intake and it worked fine after I mean I couldn't burn out with it turning off still does it a little though when not warm.

  • @jedi09 its more than likely the choke, is it a rochester quadrajet?

  • @MrJamieChaos Its a Holley 650 Double Pumper, Im regretting it though, I should have left the old Q-jet. My mechanic found the problem to be a bad coil pack inside the distributor. She starts like a champ now, Ill be sure to put up some vids

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