Basic Rock Climbing Gear : How to Use Figure-Eight & ATC Belay Devices While Rock Climbing

[ownedbystealth]

@agerapper

Its metal or paint, you should be fine, every gear does this to your rope, atc's included. You can wash it if you want I guess. Never done it to my own rope, mt bro put his in the washer, and hung it out to dry afterwards

[ownedbystealth]

@50cliber

Don't do that, but your gear. I got mine for $18 not a big amount of money, which is more important to you? Your life? Or saving a couple dollars...

[Climbate]

if youre getting your info from this video you have a lot more to learn before you should even consider loading one of these devices with someone on the other end. First of all, a figure 8 device is very outdated for a beginner and really is only seen on experts using them for long rappels. Secondly, there are right and wrong ways to use these devices and without real hands on instruction you're going to kill your partner.

[suzukiguy151]

Please move faster. It's not like I'm trying to learn anything.

[turftamper]

Thanks for the video. If I use the figure 8 will the ballay man be able to pull on the rope and cUse friction to stop someone if they are falling? All I have used for years is a locking D-ring. If I have someone that starts to fall..... I pull on the rope and they instantly stop. Will the figure 8 do that?

[bk119957]

@turftamper You've been belaying with a D-ring? using what, like a munter hitch? There are plenty of belay devices that aren't too pricey that are better (more friction and ease of use) than a figure 8, but a figure 8 will give you way more friction than whatever you're doing with a single locking d-ring. Also, an instant stop isn't really ideal.. try for a more dynamic stop. easier on everyone and the gear.

[Dexianize]

@turftamper yes

[50cliber]

do you think i could make some out of 1inch thick aluminium the figure 8

[dartgirl5]

So...this video is useless. The text transcript covers everything.

[Woubits]

Check out "Karabiner Breakings When Using A Figure-of-Eight" on the UIAA website for full details on why using a device like this for belaying is a pretty bad idea.

Figure eights are obsolete, basically.

[realtambo]

@Woubits nice artical thanks i think it is obsolite as a belay but definatly not as a decender just for the fact that they fit the job and are simple and easy to use. modern decenders i guess are gri gri's and bug's. bugs - atc ect are known to get extremely hot and in some circumstances actualy cut the rope so for a decender i would have to give a gri gri ago when i get one but till then im sticking with my trusty 8

[agerapper]

i have a figure 8 and i think its made of aluminium and leaves something on the rope what should i do???

[jtnorg]

What about the Gri Gri?

[eprevhay]

can i use figure 8 or simply a ring if all im doing is rappelling?

[cdawgme]

@eprevhay You can use figure 8's rings or atcs to rappel. Well, you can use pretty much anything to rappel.

[wulfy2001]

The 8 will destroy the rope... try the atc...

[jesus1908]

which I recommend more, the type 8 descender or atc

?

[metacarpal74]

Liked you video, I think the figure eight is also a bad choice for a belay device cos it twists the rope. The munter hitch can also be used to belay a climber but has a harsh effect on rope.

[ddingbatt]

you can use the figure 8 in aperature configuration