Added: 2 years ago
From: GrahamNR17
Views: 1,977
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  • Please don't use 3-in-1 oil in a door lock! Locks should be lubricated with locksmith's graphite, not wet oil!

  • @Fratern8 My grandad always used to say "When some who knows tells you something, shut up and listen!" On that basis, I shall acquire locksmith's graphite immediately. Thanks 'Fratern8' :-)

  • great video would something like 10w 40 work? or 15w40 diesel work?

  • Comment removed

  • Excellent video, thanks for the insight regarding the different qualities of the lubricants

  • @daveru5h You're most welcome, glad you found it useful. Nice Moulton by the way, though I'm undecided on the clown outfit!

  • I love this and your other videos.

    I've been using automatic transmission fluid on bicycles lately. I learned about it from other bike mechanics. My car mechanic says the nice property is that it holds small particles in suspension, which reduces wear. What do you think?

  • @noglider I'm not familiar enough with its properties to make a judgement. I'd be genuinely interested to hear about the hubs wear rate over the next 1, 5 and 10 years though. ATF has many properties of no use in a hub gear, but so long as the lubrication content is up to snuff, then I imagine it'll work ok.

  • @GrahamNR17 I don't get to work on many gear hubs, but I'm using ATF all over bikes, particularly on chains. So far, so good. It's also dirt cheap.

  • What's your view on Sturmey Archer's switch from oil to grease several years back? Do you think it's best to switch back to oil on these more modern hubs?

  • @chagzuki The grease-filled hubs are generally quieter (in my experience) and MUCH cleaner. I've found that the modern hubs leak a heck of a lot more than the old ones if you use oil. If you have a greased hub, I'd recommend you leave it that way. I'm running an AB, X-RD3 and X-RF5 with grease and they're as good as the older oil filled hubs, which I have many AW and FW units.

  • @GrahamNR17 I've been wondering about this for a few weeks, I think you've tipped the balance for me. . . the problem is that my X-RF5 has always been noisy in 3rd gear and seems worse recently. It was serviced and re-greased by a shop about 2 years ago and I'm wondering whether I now need to go in there myself and apply new grease, either just adding a little extra or a total clean-out and re-grease.

  • @chagzuki Ideally you need to fully dismantle to ensure grease gets in all the important places, such as pinion pins etc and anywhere metal runs over metal. The grease isn't very fluid so just adding some around the unit won't really do much. It's worth it though, and the proper Sturmey grease is excellent and availabe from oldbiketrader :-)

  • @GrahamNR17 So the official sturmey grease is worth investing in as in this case the blurb is true: it's not as thick as standard greases? How does one gauge how much grease to use; is it just a case of liberally covering everything?

  • @chagzuki I believe it's worth the money, until I find something that works just as well and is maybe cheaper. The Sturmey grease is very 'sticky' and clings really well to the surfaces. Yes, just apply liberally.

  • @GrahamNR17 Excellent, thanks lots for the advice and the great videos. I'm attempting to get to grips with an old AW before tackling the X-RF5 and your video is indispensable. I'll get there eventually.

  • @chagzuki You're most welcome, and best of luck :-)

  • @GrahamNR17 Hey, if you have an X-RF5 lying around feel free to educate me and the rest of the world on the inner workings with another great video; I'm looking for diagrams online and not finding much, and I'm struggling to interpret what I've found so far.

  • very informative, thanks.

  • does pennsoil work also???

  • In the states 3-in-1 sells 20W oil for electric motors. It's in a container that's same shape as their regular oil, so it's easy to get in between the spokes to fill the hub.

  • Thanks!

  • Your videos are very well done and explain very well how to work on the Sturmey Archer hubs. Thanks

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