Dude you just saved me from taking my van to the dealer. I have a book and the book says NOTHING about dropping the engine. I had it all taken apart and could not get the pump out. THANK YOU! GREAT video.
Thanks a bunch!!! I had to do a friend's water pump and this video saved me a LOT of time. Probably saved me 2 hours in figuring this stuff out. GREAT DETAIL.
I am trying to avoid unnecessary heat in summer here because i have never had to use a heater in a car from about april -october. And constant to everyday use even on a 60 - 65 degree day use of air cooler takes a toll on gas mileage ,Alot.
I finally got good heat today on test ride through a rain/snow /sleet storm here in city streets, . Great! Just enough for comfort instead of cold air blasting out of vents.And i was curious if i wanted to completly re-direct or shut off heater core for summer use ,and not heating up inside of van with heater core . Maybe a double "T" and extra coolant hose at core enterance at firewall What would your suggestion,ifmy idea is possible?
@ssl668 On the older dodges they had a vac powered shut off valve. They used to go al the time and we'd just tie them open or closed, if we wanted heat or not into the car.
@ShawnCFarm And i also keeping an eye on the coolant level . You were right also that it did have "Air pockets" still in system from when i flushed system a couple months ago. Also i checked for leaks and any fluid in motor oil , and none found,Great! Its slowly getting to correct level as i add about a few ounces since i been doing closer work on it.
@ShawnCFarm Ya, i noticed that there was or is no "Shut Off " Valve on this model,anyhow. But , it might of had one before , ,I had bought it used at 28 k miles and noticed all belts/hoses and spark wires were changed new.And i probably design a shut off valve as you mentioned. That would be easier than my other idea. And easier to switch on when the next winter months hit here.thanks for better idea and previous ones that helped me get my heater working too.
And thanks again for your advice not to cut into box, damaging any of the other blend door mechanisms by cutting would have been costly, I finally found a solution And with a few more makeshift ideas , heater should work good.
I was hesitant to replace the water pump that was making a hellacious noise on my 2005 T&C Decided to give it a shot after watching the video. Most difficult part was getting belt back on. Done in about 2.5 hrs in 40 deg weather. Would have been 2 hrs. but I bolted the engine mount back in before putting the belt on. No need to totally remove mounting bolts, just lossen them up inch or so. Racthing box ends would speed up the job too. I'll check out youtube again for vehicle repairs.
I amhaveing some problems on my 2007 dodge caravan 3.3. I have no heat ffom heater blower. before winter here i changed coolant, and thermostat, and also tried flushing core. It did blow some room temperature air for a month and then , colder air after that. I guessing the replaced thermostat i installed was bad or worse yet , the core is clogged still. What would your suggestions be? Someone did tell me thatair pockets in cooling system can be problenm also. or and addition to this problem
@ssl668 First off is your van getting hot enuff. If your have a scan tool hook it up and read engine temp. It should be around 195f give or take. If no scan tool look at your heat gauge. it should be about 1/4 to 1/2 heat. If this is ok warm the van up then reach in with your hand to the heater hoses. This might be a hard thing to do, or use a temp gun. If you have hot on one hose and cold on another then your heater core is pluged. Sometimes they have a shutoff valve on the hose. p1
@ShawnCFarm I dont have a scan tool for temp. reading. The dash dial temp guage almost goes to center when completly warmed or when i get done driving through my city. The intake and output hoses on the core by firewall do get hot when i checked them earlier today. The "Heater Cabin Flap Door" you mentioned is not making the normal "Opening " noise/ sound it did previous winters i used heater. And that was noticeable when i did turn dash heater controll on before. Could it be jammed or stuck?
@ShawnCFarm Sounds great! That does give more info .Maybe i can minimually look at the under dash( I am not expert), if it is even visual by me , and go from there. Also ,i noticed the highest setting on dash fan blower does not work . And i am not sure if the speed or amount of air controlled there would effect the blend door operation /opening for directing air around heater core area ,and into cabin area. Possibly?
@ssl668 And i noticed you mentioned a "Motor" attached to blend door for operation . Could be that also,thanks for helping me narrow possible problems with my vans heater.
@ShawnCFarm Ok, i might have the problem norrowed down to a single area. Since i hear no flap door opening when dash heater switch is activated(with only cold air emiting) and i have good heat when i touch both heater core hoses(sign of heater core not clogged). The repair manual says that there is a "Blower Motor Resistor /Power Module" or a "temperature module" for activating Heater Box Flap Door. But still unsure if two seperate modules or one, And accesabliity of unit(s).for home repair
@ssl668 If you can see under the dash you should beable to see the doors moving or figger out witch one is the door that gose from defrost to feet. If you can tell what one that is then you know its not that blend door, as the one your looking for controlls the heat cold air. it should be the door near the blower motor. Its kind of hard for me to tell you what to look for as I can`t remember what that heater box looks like lol.
@ShawnCFarm Um,ok. I basicaly did look from side view from driver side floor area. Theres a cover i think for heater core area. When i reached uo into areaof core it was HOT. Also i noticed the coolant level was low ,not moch about 1 cup , added. it. and after a few hours of driving i turned on blower and heater also , It was blowing heat on and off with cool air also.Kind of strange. So,i am going to change out thermostat again. It might be the one i did is faulty, and not circulating to core
@ssl668 Or the level coolant is low and has some air pockets in it somewhere. I might not have purged air from system properly a few months ago.and with no coolant passing or very little at heater core ,the heater temperature sensor cant activate blend door. That too might be it added to my heater problems. lol. Well, i am back to step 1.
@ShawnCFarm You are exactly right. I removed the heat door blend actuator and the spleen / shaft it goes onto is damaged from inside. It is broke off from pivot door . So, my second plan is to make an incision/cut in heat box area througn plastic and try and remove actual flap and possibly repair with glue or prop flap with a makeshift support for open heat position for winter months. I suprised the Dodge corporation wont cover this faulty manufacture when its clearly faulty.
@ShawnCFarm Thanks for your tips/ knowledge and i will let you and others know how this operation goes. Seems like there is very little room for working in "Compact" area of air box and two more actuators, WoW! But, i have a few good hack saw blades that will do good and a tube of silicon for temporary firm hold of door(maybe) and sections i cut to replace. Thanks again, and results after surgery,lol
@ssl668 You can always take the actuators off of the heater box and turn the shaft by hand without cutting it all to crap. I would try this before I went in with a hack saw
@ShawnCFarm On further looking at box where broken gear where actuator would slide into in side of air box , i finally did not cut into box., The broken part fell in box and out of the way of actuator hole and now i can see directly in where heater flap door is. . I inserted a long flat end screw driver and pryed flap up as far as i could. This seems to work after i warmed up engine (5 minutes) and turned on blower . I am now getting warmer to hot air other than cold air.
@ShawnCFarm I am not sure if the heater flap will eventually close with heat circulating . And since actuator is not being used for heater flap, i removed it completly.And i might have to use a flat piece of metal for supporting flap open through actuator gear mounting hole with two small screws on out side of box. Thats just in case the flap goes closed . To remove this air box and replace the actuator hookup gear and re-assemble would be impossible for me to do.But, i got heat today,so far
great video, just what i needed, had one replaced by dodge under warranty and its started to leak after only 30,000kms, so with video in hand, i will replace my water pump!! thanks for looking out for us guys that cant afford to throw it in the garage every time it goes wrong. :o)
Shawn, thank you so much for taking the time to post this video. You saved me! I had to change the water pump on my 2003 Dodge Caravan and had no idea how to lower the engine to get the water pump off the engine block. The frame of the car was in the way. I did exactly as you said and it worked perfectly. Used my floor jack and a small piece of 2 x 6 under the oil pan and lowered it down after loosening the motor mount bolts. Made the job possible. Thanks again!
thats exactly what the symptoms were .. no heat and over heating . wasnt sure if the rad was pluged up or not . anyway changed the water pump today the way your video describes. no problem except the rear bolt on the pump.a bit tricky. and its -18c today laying in the snow which dint help . sure enough the impeller (plastic) witch i think is so dumb. was broken right off. so now we are back on the road again thanks again for your help . your video made things go so much smoother ...:)
At 15 minutes 30 seconds you mention about a problem with the pulley not being centered, and causing a squeaky sound with the belt because it wobbles. Is the problem caused because of incorrectly mounting the pulley wheel to the water pump, or because the water pump was manufactured incorrectly? Thanks for the video.
@sleeperawaken36 The aftermarket pump we had was bad, and I've seen two this way already. So everytime I get one I always check them, it takes a few mins but can save you in the long run
Reading other comments, you mention older Dodge/Chrysler minivans have had tranny problems. Which years?
Also, can I put in my request for video on same m/m showing how to repair the spare tire holder when it gets stuck in the down position? I mean, besides using wire across to hold it in place & throwing the spare in the back of the van... :)
@LambonJude It was the early ones that had the kick down cable. It would stick hafe on and burn the trans out, well thats what I blame it on. I think it was the early 90's right upto 2000 I think. If I get I van with the spare tire messed up I will make that video. I'm thinking that you might have to replace the whole thing as they don't get used very much and tend to rust out.
I actually hate doing mechanical work, I'd usually rather pay someone to do it. Since I'm out of work I tore into this job on our '05 Chrysler Town and Country. Wow. NTS I got into more than I expected. Your video is a great help tho... also incredible to watch you do this kind of repair one-handed while holding the camera. Amazing & helpful video... thanks for posting!
@LambonJude Thanks my friend. I've been doing this stuff for over 20 years now and I really enjoy showing people how to save money by doing it themselfs.
Next week, hopefully i will be pulley the pump---you mentioned make sure pulley doesn't wobble after installing new pump---Why would it wobble if the i the i can align the screws from the pulley into the pump???
Also I don't want to snap screws holding the pump into the block. Is there a way to esure this from happening??? Torch them?? Would that damage the aluminum?
thanks so much for this video...I had been stumped by the serpentine belt. Didn't understand why it kept slipping off. We were ripped off by a mobile mechanic who gave a false diagnostic. $68 GONE...I went under the car and figured it out as soon as he left. Thanks to your video we saved an additional 300 to 600 bucks.
Thank you for the encourgment. I feel better knowing it is not in the engine. I did all check pulleys. found water pump to be wobbling. I certainly hope that will be it. I won't be able to do the work for about 10 days because my friend will not be back to left me use his drive way. I live in a condo, they won't let me do any work in parking lot. I wish I had a house without neighbors right next door.
I will you know after doing the pump, how things worked. Again thanks for your responses.
Thanks for responding. I did check other pulleys by spinning them and listening to sound and looked for wobble. There was none. Just the water pump pulley.
By removing the belt, the engine purrs. With belt on the pulleys and engine running, the engine has a laboring sound. QUESTION: Was this an effective test to eliminate the engine from having internal damage, since it purrs with belt off pulleys?
@scooter12368 Yes you are on the right track. You now know its not in the engeine. Now you just have to figger out what was making the noise. You will have to turn each pully water pump ac power steering to find the noise. You should beable to feel if any have roughness in them
I can't drawl a pic in my head of it spinning in a vise. Are there 2 reference points on the pulley/pump when put together that the vice can grip down on, while at the same time, it could spin?
Question 2: Mine currently is wobbling and engine sounds like it is laboring.
I took off belt ,ran engine, it purrs beautiful. With belt on, engine sounds like it is laboring. Could it be the pump? Have I eliminated internal part damage by removing belt and listening to it purring?
Glad you mentioned that the pump may not be centered after installing with Pulley. However, I don't want to install it and then spin it just to find pulley wobbles. I would then have to take off again. Also parts store may not give me money back once o ring is glued.
Is there way to determine if it will wobble prior to installing it. My pulley wobbles now. I got under car yesterday and say it wobbling. Can i get pump and pulley off without dropping engine? Is t
@scooter12368 You can bolt the new pump and pully together and hold it in a vise, then spin it. I don't think you will get it off without dropping the motor
do you have a list of tools needed, socket size, wrench size. You might have given it, I didn't catch it. I have to do mine today, but not at home. Thanks, Great job.
@AGreedyTree Yes trans pans on the dodge are ok but try some of the vanlve covers where you need to put them in a mess of wires to get them in place lol
@fixinggrace thanks my friend. I think it comes from work as I have to explain some things in simple terms so people will uderstand what I'm talking about lol
A tip about the battery clamp's I've seen a lot of people use hot water and baking soda to clean the corrosion off of them, this is not smart some of you may know that baking soda is a base and battery's contain acid (base chemicals neutralize acid's) the chances are slim but the baking soda can rune your battery if it some how gets in so just use hot water works just as well. I've only seen it happen twice but still worth a mention I thought.
when did they move the water pump to the back on the 3.3?
thanks for keeping me updated with the newer stuff shawn, i spend most of my time fixing up vics, grand marqus, town cars and lincoln mark VII's
any experience with the ford 4.0 sohc? a friend from virginia dropped off his 01 ranger for me to fix a p0300, shop down there replaced injectors, plugs, wires, ecm , crank sensor.......i'm thinking broken chain guides? pings and rattles under load.
@lincolnmaniac Yes you have to watch out for the timming chains in the 4.0l. I hear your have to pull the motor to get the one side as its on the back of the one head
@ShawnCFarm i used to have corrosion issues on the battery with 1 of my previous cars i once owned and a friend of mine told me to clean the connections and then spray them with fluid film it's like wd40 but better and it also eats the corrostion and prevents anymore from reocurring so i did and it works never had any issues after that
Love your videos Shawn! It is really quite nearsighted to put a coolant tube on a vehicle that has no lasting corrosion protection here in the rust belt. That coating might as well been a think wool blanket soaking up Canada's fine road salt and let it feast on that unprotected metal. Sad.
ive done this in the winter upside down on the coldest day and all you need to do to get it out is put a 2x4 up beside the motor push the motor over just a little and the pump will just drop out leave it to the builders of newer cars to make things difficult to replace so you'll spend the big bucks to fix lol great vid man
good vid.its nice to see other ppl work on the ground also.thanks!
leap5000 1 week ago
@leap5000 I just wish I could work inside for a change lol
ShawnCFarm 1 week ago
Dude you just saved me from taking my van to the dealer. I have a book and the book says NOTHING about dropping the engine. I had it all taken apart and could not get the pump out. THANK YOU! GREAT video.
teseract911 2 weeks ago
@teseract911 Np bro I have alot more videos like this on my channel
ShawnCFarm 2 weeks ago
Thanks a bunch!!! I had to do a friend's water pump and this video saved me a LOT of time. Probably saved me 2 hours in figuring this stuff out. GREAT DETAIL.
grunt0400 2 weeks ago
@grunt0400 Np bro. I love saving people money.
ShawnCFarm 2 weeks ago
PITA job, i did it not too long ago.
jeff27577 4 weeks ago
Dude! You rock! I looked like a hero because of getting this water pump in. I never would have thought of lowering the engine! You rock!
Vbb71 1 month ago
@Vbb71 Thanaks bro. I have alot more fixes on my channel lol
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
This video is great !! I would have never gotten that water pump without.. Thank you very much .. Keep posting good material like this
preyes69 1 month ago
@preyes69 Thanks my friend and alot more to come
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
I am trying to avoid unnecessary heat in summer here because i have never had to use a heater in a car from about april -october. And constant to everyday use even on a 60 - 65 degree day use of air cooler takes a toll on gas mileage ,Alot.
ssl668 1 month ago
I finally got good heat today on test ride through a rain/snow /sleet storm here in city streets, . Great! Just enough for comfort instead of cold air blasting out of vents.And i was curious if i wanted to completly re-direct or shut off heater core for summer use ,and not heating up inside of van with heater core . Maybe a double "T" and extra coolant hose at core enterance at firewall What would your suggestion,ifmy idea is possible?
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 On the older dodges they had a vac powered shut off valve. They used to go al the time and we'd just tie them open or closed, if we wanted heat or not into the car.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm And i also keeping an eye on the coolant level . You were right also that it did have "Air pockets" still in system from when i flushed system a couple months ago. Also i checked for leaks and any fluid in motor oil , and none found,Great! Its slowly getting to correct level as i add about a few ounces since i been doing closer work on it.
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 Part 2 you might beable to put some kind of shutoff valve in there if it dose not already have one
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm Ya, i noticed that there was or is no "Shut Off " Valve on this model,anyhow. But , it might of had one before , ,I had bought it used at 28 k miles and noticed all belts/hoses and spark wires were changed new.And i probably design a shut off valve as you mentioned. That would be easier than my other idea. And easier to switch on when the next winter months hit here.thanks for better idea and previous ones that helped me get my heater working too.
ssl668 1 month ago
And thanks again for your advice not to cut into box, damaging any of the other blend door mechanisms by cutting would have been costly, I finally found a solution And with a few more makeshift ideas , heater should work good.
ssl668 1 month ago
I was hesitant to replace the water pump that was making a hellacious noise on my 2005 T&C Decided to give it a shot after watching the video. Most difficult part was getting belt back on. Done in about 2.5 hrs in 40 deg weather. Would have been 2 hrs. but I bolted the engine mount back in before putting the belt on. No need to totally remove mounting bolts, just lossen them up inch or so. Racthing box ends would speed up the job too. I'll check out youtube again for vehicle repairs.
Thanks!
6kenj 1 month ago
@6kenj Thats why I made the video
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
I amhaveing some problems on my 2007 dodge caravan 3.3. I have no heat ffom heater blower. before winter here i changed coolant, and thermostat, and also tried flushing core. It did blow some room temperature air for a month and then , colder air after that. I guessing the replaced thermostat i installed was bad or worse yet , the core is clogged still. What would your suggestions be? Someone did tell me thatair pockets in cooling system can be problenm also. or and addition to this problem
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 First off is your van getting hot enuff. If your have a scan tool hook it up and read engine temp. It should be around 195f give or take. If no scan tool look at your heat gauge. it should be about 1/4 to 1/2 heat. If this is ok warm the van up then reach in with your hand to the heater hoses. This might be a hard thing to do, or use a temp gun. If you have hot on one hose and cold on another then your heater core is pluged. Sometimes they have a shutoff valve on the hose. p1
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm I dont have a scan tool for temp. reading. The dash dial temp guage almost goes to center when completly warmed or when i get done driving through my city. The intake and output hoses on the core by firewall do get hot when i checked them earlier today. The "Heater Cabin Flap Door" you mentioned is not making the normal "Opening " noise/ sound it did previous winters i used heater. And that was noticeable when i did turn dash heater controll on before. Could it be jammed or stuck?
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 P2 If you have good heat on bolth hoses then you might have a blend door problem under the dash. Let me know how you make out
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm Is a "BlendDoor" extensive or professional repair only. ?
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 Its in the heater box. Sometimes they get stuck or the motors that open and close them go bad.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm Sounds great! That does give more info .Maybe i can minimually look at the under dash( I am not expert), if it is even visual by me , and go from there. Also ,i noticed the highest setting on dash fan blower does not work . And i am not sure if the speed or amount of air controlled there would effect the blend door operation /opening for directing air around heater core area ,and into cabin area. Possibly?
ssl668 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
@ssl668 And i noticed you mentioned a "Motor" attached to blend door for operation . Could be that also,thanks for helping me narrow possible problems with my vans heater.
ssl668 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
@ShawnCFarm Ok, i might have the problem norrowed down to a single area. Since i hear no flap door opening when dash heater switch is activated(with only cold air emiting) and i have good heat when i touch both heater core hoses(sign of heater core not clogged). The repair manual says that there is a "Blower Motor Resistor /Power Module" or a "temperature module" for activating Heater Box Flap Door. But still unsure if two seperate modules or one, And accesabliity of unit(s).for home repair
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 If you can see under the dash you should beable to see the doors moving or figger out witch one is the door that gose from defrost to feet. If you can tell what one that is then you know its not that blend door, as the one your looking for controlls the heat cold air. it should be the door near the blower motor. Its kind of hard for me to tell you what to look for as I can`t remember what that heater box looks like lol.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm Um,ok. I basicaly did look from side view from driver side floor area. Theres a cover i think for heater core area. When i reached uo into areaof core it was HOT. Also i noticed the coolant level was low ,not moch about 1 cup , added. it. and after a few hours of driving i turned on blower and heater also , It was blowing heat on and off with cool air also.Kind of strange. So,i am going to change out thermostat again. It might be the one i did is faulty, and not circulating to core
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 If the heat is comming and going most times your coolant level is low.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ssl668 Or the level coolant is low and has some air pockets in it somewhere. I might not have purged air from system properly a few months ago.and with no coolant passing or very little at heater core ,the heater temperature sensor cant activate blend door. That too might be it added to my heater problems. lol. Well, i am back to step 1.
ssl668 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm You are exactly right. I removed the heat door blend actuator and the spleen / shaft it goes onto is damaged from inside. It is broke off from pivot door . So, my second plan is to make an incision/cut in heat box area througn plastic and try and remove actual flap and possibly repair with glue or prop flap with a makeshift support for open heat position for winter months. I suprised the Dodge corporation wont cover this faulty manufacture when its clearly faulty.
ssl668 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm Thanks for your tips/ knowledge and i will let you and others know how this operation goes. Seems like there is very little room for working in "Compact" area of air box and two more actuators, WoW! But, i have a few good hack saw blades that will do good and a tube of silicon for temporary firm hold of door(maybe) and sections i cut to replace. Thanks again, and results after surgery,lol
ssl668 1 month ago
@ssl668 You can always take the actuators off of the heater box and turn the shaft by hand without cutting it all to crap. I would try this before I went in with a hack saw
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm On further looking at box where broken gear where actuator would slide into in side of air box , i finally did not cut into box., The broken part fell in box and out of the way of actuator hole and now i can see directly in where heater flap door is. . I inserted a long flat end screw driver and pryed flap up as far as i could. This seems to work after i warmed up engine (5 minutes) and turned on blower . I am now getting warmer to hot air other than cold air.
ssl668 1 month ago
@ShawnCFarm I am not sure if the heater flap will eventually close with heat circulating . And since actuator is not being used for heater flap, i removed it completly.And i might have to use a flat piece of metal for supporting flap open through actuator gear mounting hole with two small screws on out side of box. Thats just in case the flap goes closed . To remove this air box and replace the actuator hookup gear and re-assemble would be impossible for me to do.But, i got heat today,so far
ssl668 1 month ago
great video, just what i needed, had one replaced by dodge under warranty and its started to leak after only 30,000kms, so with video in hand, i will replace my water pump!! thanks for looking out for us guys that cant afford to throw it in the garage every time it goes wrong. :o)
THEBIGMADJOCK 1 month ago
@THEBIGMADJOCK Fallow the sets and you should not have a problem my friend.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
Great video, sure helps when you see someone else do this and record it. Again thanks
worm47 1 month ago
@worm47 Np my friend. Let me know how you make out.
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
This will save $300 in labor tonight, thank you sir.
bigmikesmith1 1 month ago
@bigmikesmith1 No problem, I hope it goes well
ShawnCFarm 1 month ago
Shawn thank you for the video I will try this Saturday on our van.
timbandy 2 months ago
Shawn, thank you so much for taking the time to post this video. You saved me! I had to change the water pump on my 2003 Dodge Caravan and had no idea how to lower the engine to get the water pump off the engine block. The frame of the car was in the way. I did exactly as you said and it worked perfectly. Used my floor jack and a small piece of 2 x 6 under the oil pan and lowered it down after loosening the motor mount bolts. Made the job possible. Thanks again!
dominic2424 2 months ago
thats exactly what the symptoms were .. no heat and over heating . wasnt sure if the rad was pluged up or not . anyway changed the water pump today the way your video describes. no problem except the rear bolt on the pump.a bit tricky. and its -18c today laying in the snow which dint help . sure enough the impeller (plastic) witch i think is so dumb. was broken right off. so now we are back on the road again thanks again for your help . your video made things go so much smoother ...:)
gm19651 2 months ago
@gm19651 No problem my friend
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
dumb dogs lol
hp11208 2 months ago in playlist More videos from ShawnCFarm
nice video , thanks very much for the well demonstratives steps on re and re water pump.
have you ever come across a water pump were the impeller has come off. what would the symtoms be
thanks geoff
gm19651 2 months ago
@gm19651 Yes I've seen them fall off and rott off. The van or car will over heat and may or may not have any heat out of the heater
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
Great video. going to start my replacement about now. Wish me luck.
iuryins 2 months ago
@iuryins Fallow thw steps and you won't need luck ~S~
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
Helps a lot on installing a pump for the first time..good job!
hollymakesmesmile 2 months ago
@hollymakesmesmile Thanks bro, and more repair stuff on my channel
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
Yes Sir Excellent and well demonstareted couldn't say it any better. Thank you for your time and effort.
bronco19711 2 months ago
@bronco19711 Np thats what I do best, lots moree videos like that on here
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
excellent and well demonstrated.
mikosaaol 2 months ago
At 15 minutes 30 seconds you mention about a problem with the pulley not being centered, and causing a squeaky sound with the belt because it wobbles. Is the problem caused because of incorrectly mounting the pulley wheel to the water pump, or because the water pump was manufactured incorrectly? Thanks for the video.
sleeperawaken36 2 months ago
@sleeperawaken36 The aftermarket pump we had was bad, and I've seen two this way already. So everytime I get one I always check them, it takes a few mins but can save you in the long run
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
Hey, where can you get a water intake tube from? Don't have them at Oreilly or Autozone. Is it a dealer only part?
sleeperawaken36 2 months ago
@sleeperawaken36 Try napa or the dealer
ShawnCFarm 2 months ago
Nice "shadetree" repair thanks,,....
scanneron670 3 months ago
2007 and its not the new style of van that sucks,i like the new models
hp11208 3 months ago
Thanks to your video, I was able to do this project on my 2005 Town and Country. Thanks for making the video.
gmeister81 3 months ago
@gmeister81 Your welcome. I have lots of how to stuff
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Pump is just starting to go in my '03 3.3L Caravan. Thank's so much for this video!
pommeree 3 months ago
@pommeree Your welcome and more on my channel
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
May want to diconnect the battery before you start.
ajvenom 3 months ago
@ajvenom You could, but I don't see a real need to on this one as you are not going near anything with power in it.
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Reading other comments, you mention older Dodge/Chrysler minivans have had tranny problems. Which years?
Also, can I put in my request for video on same m/m showing how to repair the spare tire holder when it gets stuck in the down position? I mean, besides using wire across to hold it in place & throwing the spare in the back of the van... :)
LambonJude 3 months ago
@LambonJude It was the early ones that had the kick down cable. It would stick hafe on and burn the trans out, well thats what I blame it on. I think it was the early 90's right upto 2000 I think. If I get I van with the spare tire messed up I will make that video. I'm thinking that you might have to replace the whole thing as they don't get used very much and tend to rust out.
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
I actually hate doing mechanical work, I'd usually rather pay someone to do it. Since I'm out of work I tore into this job on our '05 Chrysler Town and Country. Wow. NTS I got into more than I expected. Your video is a great help tho... also incredible to watch you do this kind of repair one-handed while holding the camera. Amazing & helpful video... thanks for posting!
LambonJude 3 months ago
@LambonJude Thanks my friend. I've been doing this stuff for over 20 years now and I really enjoy showing people how to save money by doing it themselfs.
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Thanks for this... I'm not gonna attempt it on my own but I'll at least not feel totally ignorant going into the mechanics..
MrDeekaph 3 months ago
@MrDeekaph Thanks for the comment, and thats what I do best.
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Great video great job thanks a lot mate
johnybarcelona1 3 months ago
@johnybarcelona1 No problem
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
just i want to say Thanks for the video
calox23 3 months ago
just i want to say Thank you for the Video
calox23 3 months ago
@calox23 No problem, it was fun to make.
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Thanks man really u help me
waseem333207 3 months ago
@waseem333207 No problem. More how to fix it videos here and redneck stuff as well
ShawnCFarm 3 months ago
Next week, hopefully i will be pulley the pump---you mentioned make sure pulley doesn't wobble after installing new pump---Why would it wobble if the i the i can align the screws from the pulley into the pump???
Also I don't want to snap screws holding the pump into the block. Is there a way to esure this from happening??? Torch them?? Would that damage the aluminum?
scooter12368 4 months ago
@scooter12368 You can heat them abit
ShawnCFarm 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
thanks so much for this video...I had been stumped by the serpentine belt. Didn't understand why it kept slipping off. We were ripped off by a mobile mechanic who gave a false diagnostic. $68 GONE...I went under the car and figured it out as soon as he left. Thanks to your video we saved an additional 300 to 600 bucks.
CatCityRecords 4 months ago
Comment removed
CatCityRecords 4 months ago
Thank you for the encourgment. I feel better knowing it is not in the engine. I did all check pulleys. found water pump to be wobbling. I certainly hope that will be it. I won't be able to do the work for about 10 days because my friend will not be back to left me use his drive way. I live in a condo, they won't let me do any work in parking lot. I wish I had a house without neighbors right next door.
I will you know after doing the pump, how things worked. Again thanks for your responses.
scooter12368 4 months ago
@scooter12368 No problem and I hope it all works out.
ShawnCFarm 4 months ago
Thanks for responding. I did check other pulleys by spinning them and listening to sound and looked for wobble. There was none. Just the water pump pulley.
By removing the belt, the engine purrs. With belt on the pulleys and engine running, the engine has a laboring sound. QUESTION: Was this an effective test to eliminate the engine from having internal damage, since it purrs with belt off pulleys?
scooter12368 4 months ago
@scooter12368 Yes you are on the right track. You now know its not in the engeine. Now you just have to figger out what was making the noise. You will have to turn each pully water pump ac power steering to find the noise. You should beable to feel if any have roughness in them
ShawnCFarm 4 months ago
GREAT VIDEO
I can't drawl a pic in my head of it spinning in a vise. Are there 2 reference points on the pulley/pump when put together that the vice can grip down on, while at the same time, it could spin?
Question 2: Mine currently is wobbling and engine sounds like it is laboring.
I took off belt ,ran engine, it purrs beautiful. With belt on, engine sounds like it is laboring. Could it be the pump? Have I eliminated internal part damage by removing belt and listening to it purring?
scooter12368 4 months ago
@scooter12368 You can hold the pump in your hand and spin it. Check all your pullys and alt, ac and power steering.
ShawnCFarm 4 months ago
Glad you mentioned that the pump may not be centered after installing with Pulley. However, I don't want to install it and then spin it just to find pulley wobbles. I would then have to take off again. Also parts store may not give me money back once o ring is glued.
Is there way to determine if it will wobble prior to installing it. My pulley wobbles now. I got under car yesterday and say it wobbling. Can i get pump and pulley off without dropping engine? Is t
scooter12368 4 months ago
@scooter12368 You can bolt the new pump and pully together and hold it in a vise, then spin it. I don't think you will get it off without dropping the motor
ShawnCFarm 4 months ago
Argh I need that pipe, but my local guy doesnt know how to get it. Is there a part number for it? the Transfer tube you are holding at .40 seconds?
LamanuzziTube 5 months ago
@LamanuzziTube I'm not sure what the number is, only place I could get it was the dealer
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
I'm impessed with the quality of video. Very good job.
uccoskun 5 months ago
@uccoskun Thanks my friend
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
Bravo !!! Maestro...
gtkatushin 5 months ago
do you know what size wrench the pully takes? I got all but that one. Thanks.
ankersen 5 months ago
@ankersen If I remember they are 10mm and there are three of them
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
do you have a list of tools needed, socket size, wrench size. You might have given it, I didn't catch it. I have to do mine today, but not at home. Thanks, Great job.
ankersen 5 months ago
@ankersen Sorry I didn't list them, back will do for the next video. I think I name each tool as i use them but will add a list on my next video
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
GREAT VIDEO, KEEP IT UP!!, CANADIANS ROCK !!
1959D356 5 months ago
@1959D356 Thanks my friend ,more on the way
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
Outstanding! Thanks for your efforts. Question: the silicone you mention at 18:00 do you know if you can use plumbing silicone?
mtriv111 5 months ago
@mtriv111 I would only use high temp or something ment to go on cars as you do not know what the anti-freeze will do to the plumbing silicone
ShawnCFarm 5 months ago
Very thourgh, Thanks big help.
elmuelero 5 months ago
You are awesome, thanks for posting.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Awesome video!! You are really good at teaching! Not many people are
MisterMattyMo 6 months ago
This van shouldn't be needing a water pump so early in it's life
Fuhiti 6 months ago
i just changed one of those tubes on my dads 01 caravan holey crap was that a PITA like 50000x harder then on that 07
ARoTheGreat 6 months ago
i just changed one of those tubes on my dads 01 caravan holey crap was that a PITA
ARoTheGreat 6 months ago
@ARoTheGreat You would think they would have fixed that problem by now
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
I use high tack.
DrJohnBecker 6 months ago
i never use glue on the gaskets
AGreedyTree 6 months ago
@AGreedyTree I always do because it holds the gasket in place untill you get it in place.
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
@ShawnCFarm I changed my transaxle fluid and filter. I didn't need any adhesive. Once you get the bolts through it's not going anywhere.
AGreedyTree 6 months ago
@AGreedyTree Yes trans pans on the dodge are ok but try some of the vanlve covers where you need to put them in a mess of wires to get them in place lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Nicely done. You were very thorough and common sense with your approach to auto repair.
fixinggrace 6 months ago
@fixinggrace thanks my friend. I think it comes from work as I have to explain some things in simple terms so people will uderstand what I'm talking about lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Nice job !!
phill903 6 months ago
@phill903 Thanks my friend
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
A tip about the battery clamp's I've seen a lot of people use hot water and baking soda to clean the corrosion off of them, this is not smart some of you may know that baking soda is a base and battery's contain acid (base chemicals neutralize acid's) the chances are slim but the baking soda can rune your battery if it some how gets in so just use hot water works just as well. I've only seen it happen twice but still worth a mention I thought.
kowyn2 6 months ago
@kowyn2 Yes we use this at work to get rid of the corrosion. I just replaced the cable end last night
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Nice video
classpc 6 months ago
@classpc I thank you very much
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
The elastomer appears to be cracked on the vibration damper as well.
I suppose these are not as expensive as on the bigger engines.
seapeddler 6 months ago
@seapeddler Not sure have not yet had to replace one on this motor.
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Good job Shawn. I like your videos and learn from them. Keep them coming.
Poolman
poolfixer 6 months ago
@poolfixer Thats what I'm here for, to share what I know.
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
when did they move the water pump to the back on the 3.3?
thanks for keeping me updated with the newer stuff shawn, i spend most of my time fixing up vics, grand marqus, town cars and lincoln mark VII's
any experience with the ford 4.0 sohc? a friend from virginia dropped off his 01 ranger for me to fix a p0300, shop down there replaced injectors, plugs, wires, ecm , crank sensor.......i'm thinking broken chain guides? pings and rattles under load.
thanks and keep up the educational vids mang!
lincolnmaniac 6 months ago
@lincolnmaniac Yes you have to watch out for the timming chains in the 4.0l. I hear your have to pull the motor to get the one side as its on the back of the one head
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
@ShawnCFarm that would be the v6 4.0l
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
awesome.
braydensdeals 6 months ago
@braydensdeals Thanks
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Not to bad. A 350 is way easier though.
mdk70454 6 months ago
@mdk70454 And sounds alot nicer lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
ill try not to pull my rat hoes off, he he judt kidding . great vid shawn , its much like some vw s and fords here in europe, ofcurse the neons too.
transdetendal 6 months ago
@transdetendal Lol.
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Great instructional video, keep,em come'em
chitlinray 6 months ago
@chitlinray Thanks my friend
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
A bit fiddly, but it sure does the job.
cipmars 6 months ago
caravan *
gangsterbryce 6 months ago
@gangsterbryce Thanks for pointing that out, I'll fix it now lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
good vid. i need to do this on our van
brokenknuckles1 6 months ago
@brokenknuckles1 Make sure to shop around for the best prices on the parts
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
harmonic balancer doesn't look like it has a lot of life left either
fupabox 6 months ago
@fupabox I hope it lasts longer then the water pump
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
rotted after 4 years...unreal...
fupabox 6 months ago
@fupabox That seems to be the norm now on the new stuff
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Nice job Shawn. That looked easy to do.... I allways get to do the hard one's... With no room to do anything.
cbhonda90 6 months ago
@cbhonda90 I hate cutting my hands all up
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Hope you get to do the timing belt and water pump on a chevy aveo one day... I hear they are quite challenging. Great vid!
johnygogo 6 months ago
@johnygogo You just never know what I might be doing from day to day lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
@ShawnCFarm i used to have corrosion issues on the battery with 1 of my previous cars i once owned and a friend of mine told me to clean the connections and then spray them with fluid film it's like wd40 but better and it also eats the corrostion and prevents anymore from reocurring so i did and it works never had any issues after that
boarderfreak21 6 months ago
@boarderfreak21 Ya some times you can use paint to help that after you have it all cleaned up.
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Is that a dead bee lying there starting at 22:14 ?
THEsquirrel3d 6 months ago
@THEsquirrel3d It might beee lol
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Comment removed
THEsquirrel3d 6 months ago
Love your videos Shawn! It is really quite nearsighted to put a coolant tube on a vehicle that has no lasting corrosion protection here in the rust belt. That coating might as well been a think wool blanket soaking up Canada's fine road salt and let it feast on that unprotected metal. Sad.
dwaynejperry 6 months ago
@dwaynejperry They try to make them as cheap as they can get away with to make the most money. Its almost like they are only in it for the short term
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
cool vid
swampratman2000 6 months ago
@swampratman2000 Thanks my friend
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
@ShawnCFarm makes sense, Imma take that into consideration next time I do some car work, never used em, never saw a reason to
MechanicDan1 6 months ago
I'm thinking of making some repair vids but my dealer has had very little work lately. Nice job man!
Mutleytech 6 months ago
@Mutleytech Just make sure that your boss is ok with it as some people get really funny when it comes to youtube
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
ive done this in the winter upside down on the coldest day and all you need to do to get it out is put a 2x4 up beside the motor push the motor over just a little and the pump will just drop out leave it to the builders of newer cars to make things difficult to replace so you'll spend the big bucks to fix lol great vid man
carrabec99 6 months ago
@carrabec99 they make everything in components then jam them together,
ShawnCFarm 6 months ago
Hi Shawn love your vids keep up the good work my friend cheers from Shane over in the land down under
wazclan1964 6 months ago