@CreationsbyKris I know folks who treat their wood items with kitchen oils like olive and vegetable oil. Conventional wisdom says these oils go rancid and are not a good choice. But some folks swear by them and say there's no problem. So I'll leave it up to you. :)
man thats some poisons you apply on that board....Aspartame is also FDA approved but it is known excitotoxin.... not trying to be ass here but you might recheck my facts and learn something new.
@cleric022684 If you have cited references to articles that demonstrate notable toxicity levels and food contamination as a result of using these products in a cutting board, I'd be happy to read them. We are surrounded by toxic and poisonous materials in our everyday lives. Fortunately, exposure levels and ingestion quantities play a major determining role in how much impact a toxic chemical really has. So, point me to the facts and I'd be happy to "learn something new".
@TheWoodWhisperer send me personal message and I will send you some info Mineral oil is Petroleum by-product... guess you would not put petroleum in your food?? You are right by saying we are surrounded by toxic products but that is not reason to feed your self with more poison...thats like saying its ok to eat rat poison in small amount because it will not kill you immediatelly
@cleric022684 Once again, exposure levels. Am I suggesting drinking mineral oil? Of course not. Once it absorbs into the wood, very little if any would actually get on the food. I'm also currently looking at two WHO reports that state the following: "Although a small percentage of ingested mineral oil is absorbed and deposited in various organs it is without any apparent harm." and "...there are no toxicological problems arising from the use of food grade mineral oil."
wow i love it! my family makes hardwood furniture and ive been thinking of ways to make us of our cuttings ..im gonna try this! hope i can find varnsih for food items here in our place though
hi im new to wood working but i want to attempt this project with the original wood you have used but i also want to make another one but different colors black and red to be specific i was wondering if you knew certain types of wood that would work for me or if staining was an option im not sure about it being food safe with a stain though any help you can give will be greatly appreciated
@A3ON119 I wouldn't recommend staining anything intended for food. So it is going to be hard to get those exact colors. You could certainly get in the ballbark by using walnut and cherry....
got rough the bloodwood was fine still smooth but the maple isn't smooth anymore, I applied some more of that oil and let it sit overnight but that of course didn't magically fix it lol. I was wondering if you had any ideas for me, I was kind of hoping putting a varnish over it might help to make the surface more glassy but aside from already having oil soaked up by the board I've heard varnish can cloud wood.
@s0medudeonline Well first things first. I wouldn't recommend bloodwood for a cutting board. It is a naturally oily wood and I just don't like the idea of oily exotics around my food. That said, you are likely going to have problems with varnish too, since the natural oil in the bloodwood will prevent proper curing. And keep in mind, the varnish method is not intended to create a layer of gloss...only to seal the wood fibers. So you are probably best just sticking with the oil.
Hello again, I've got a question similar to jtpryan's....I used bloodwood and hard maple for my board, went a bit thinner, and did a more simple design. I used the butcher block oil because it was cheap enough but also it has beeswax and carnauba wax. I followed the directions on the bottle (apply let sit 20 minutes and repeat) I gave each coat an extra ten minutes just because. After it was all said and done I used the cutting board and washed it by hand and as soon as the water hit it the
@jtpryan Well that can be tricky. Mineral oil never really cures so if you apply a varnish over it, you will have drying problems. I would recommend just using the board for a while and waiting for it to "dry out". Once most of the oil is absorbed or wears off, take the board back to the shop for a little sanding and then go for the varnishing method.
@shellandmark1 You don't have to. But I do recommend it. The thinner the finish is, the easier it absorbs. And the thicker it is, the more it stays on the surface. Absorption is really the key here.
Nice videos. This would be a good way to make a chess board. Instead of gluing it end grain up you could cut slices off and glue then with the grain running the length of the board. I see a video in your future. LOL Haha.. Thanks -- TMFA
My wife has wood cutting boards that are designed to be used on both sides. Based on where you routed in your handles and the way you only showed one side of the board throughout the video, it would appear your board is only designed to be used on one side? That being the case, do you put your varnish or oil seal on just the business side or both? If just one side, what's to stop us from routing additional recessed handles next to the other ones and using both sides of the board?
@abowen2 The board can certainly be used on both sides if desired, but I typically only use one side. And both sides are finished equally. So a different style of handle would certainly make the board more conducive to two sided use.
@abowen2 I made a fantastic board following your instructions. Thank you so much, However, a day after my final perfectly smooth sanding (before finish)I ran my fingers over the surface and I could feel each and every one of the squares. I sanded again and immediately applied finish as you demonstrated. Now 8 hours after the final finish has dried, the wood is beginning to swell again and as before, I can feel the squares in the end grain again. Is this something I just have to live with?
@abowen2 To some extent, yes. The lines will frequently show themselves when the board experiences a moisture change. But I find that this can diminish over time. I usually recommend using the board for a few months. After numerous uses, the board will be pretty rough. That's a good time to take it back in the shop, give it a light sanding to smooth everything out, and give it another coat or two of your finish of choice. At that point, it should stay smooth longer.
That was probably one of the most thorough and informational video i have seen. And the best part, he is not long winded like some of the other videos. GREAT JOB!
Also, you forgot to post the link for the varnish :D
I spend quite a bit of time in the Wood Shop. I really like your Videos and your detailed step by step instructions. I really like how you cover different options. Very nice. Keep up the good work.
I think you've noticed - matt's basement workshop moved to another site, i think a annotation would be nice at that point. It's not a must, but i guess it would be a nice service. Great videos btw! :) I <3 them.
To be honest, I wouldn't stain a cutting board at all. Seems like too much of a chance that the dye particles could get into the food. But to answer the questions, some stains will tend to seal wood to some extent.
Good video..About two years ago i had some wood left over from a deck job i did..When i was ask if i could make a bench,and some side flower pots holders..So i made them..To my surprise the neighbors, saw them and ask me to make them some too. So i did and since i have made about doziest or so..Now do to a heath problem i am not working. And thinking of doing some wood work to keep busy...I will keep my eye on your web site. In hope of getting help as i go alone...Thank you.....
I really enjoy your videos and just subscribed. I want to get into wood working and had a couple questions that I hope you can give advice on. What types of projects would you suggest and what type of tools would you reccomend on a budget for a new person to this trade? I appreciate your response.
Thanks for subscribing. I would be glad to help, but I would recommend emailing me from my site. Its a real pain answering long questions in YouTube comments.
I recently made a cutting board out of Oak. It was not end grain. Everything seemed fine until I ran it under water. The surface became rough and I had to sand it and oil it again. It still gets fairly rough. I had originally sanded it quite thoroughly and used sunflower oil to finish it. I did not have access to a jointer and used a planer instead to joint the edges. Do you have any insight as to why the surface becomes rough everytime it gets wet?
My guess is that the oil you are using is not doing a good job of protecting the wood from moisture. The moisture is what raises the grain and gives you that rough appearance. What I would do is use the mineral oil/wax mixture on the board after you sand it the next time. That should give you a little more resistance to water.
In my opinion, they work well for an endgrain board. But if you are doing a face grain board, they tend to have a lot of pits an pores on the surface where bacteria can hide, so they wouldn't be the best choice. But end grain is a different story. So in my opinion, yes, those would make a fine cutting board.
nice job i was going to use maple and red oak any problem with that?? also at the 9:00 mark i saw a blade burn mark is that going to effect the glue up or does that need to addressed and if so how? thanks a wannabe woodworker
Well the burning is only on the top surface of that piece and that's a part that won't see any glue. So no real issues there. It does, however, need to be sanded away after the board is completely glued up.
I made two boards at one time and just got them confused during filming. They are almost identical though. The position of the strips is the only difference.
did you rip them? If its end grain than the width of each strip is the thickness of the lumber. The second board has 19 strips and the first is only 11? Meaning the thickness of the second was less
The only difference is the order the parts were assembled in in the first glueup. But it all came from 8/4 stock. In the second part, you'll see the smaller strips were placed at the center. In part one, you can see that the smaller strips were placed in the second row.
Im in the middle of making my first cutting board. Everything is going as per the video. I cannot wait to finish it. Thank you. You should have your own TV show.
Thanks for the great video lesson. I made two of these boards. The first I consider a learning experience. The second one turned out great. I followed your instructions to a T and the board is beautiful. Makes a great gift to give for Mothers Day.
is there any way you could share ideas about where the layman can get rock maple (or even birdseye) and purple heart? i mean..to be honest i think most of us do our shopping for materials at Lowe's, Home Depot, RP Lumber, Menard's etc....do these stores carry wood like that? where to buy the wood is my only problem i guess. the board looks really sweet and i have the tools to create something that seems relatively easy to make. but where to buy the wood???!!! thanks
naa man srry lowes or menards or anyother place like that doesnt carry more exotic woods, if you aint got em locally ur gonna have to special order em of the web i havent got a web sitre but il get back to ya.
thanx... i'm a big knife fan, collector and maker... and i keep all my kitchen knives razor sharp... my cutting board don't last more than a year anna half... is this the best cutting board that could be made ever???
lol well I would never say its the best ever, but its pretty damn good. If you're looking for the ultimate in durability, you just can't beat endgrain.
Keep in mind that even "food safe" varnishes like Salad Bowl finishes contain mineral spirits and naptha. So adding more doesn't really make the material any less safe. Once cured, these finishes are perfectly safe and will not transfer an odor or taste to you food. Check out the Nov. 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking for my article that covers this exact topic. There is an accompanying video on Popularwoodworking as well.
Never use salad oil or any animal fats like crisco solid - it will become rancid and make the board taste bad which will transfer to the food. I've used mineral oil for as long as I've been alive, never a problem. Adding the beeswax gives it a hardener as does the paraffin. Not sure I'd drink mineral spirits so I doubt I'd use it to thin wiping varnisg plus the board will have an after taste and odor of the mineral spirits. USP or food grade (not technical) mineral oil is best.
Could vegetable oil be used instead of a Mineral oil treatment
CreationsbyKris 2 weeks ago
@CreationsbyKris I know folks who treat their wood items with kitchen oils like olive and vegetable oil. Conventional wisdom says these oils go rancid and are not a good choice. But some folks swear by them and say there's no problem. So I'll leave it up to you. :)
TheWoodWhisperer 2 weeks ago
man thats some poisons you apply on that board....Aspartame is also FDA approved but it is known excitotoxin.... not trying to be ass here but you might recheck my facts and learn something new.
cleric022684 4 weeks ago
@cleric022684 If you have cited references to articles that demonstrate notable toxicity levels and food contamination as a result of using these products in a cutting board, I'd be happy to read them. We are surrounded by toxic and poisonous materials in our everyday lives. Fortunately, exposure levels and ingestion quantities play a major determining role in how much impact a toxic chemical really has. So, point me to the facts and I'd be happy to "learn something new".
TheWoodWhisperer 4 weeks ago
@TheWoodWhisperer send me personal message and I will send you some info Mineral oil is Petroleum by-product... guess you would not put petroleum in your food?? You are right by saying we are surrounded by toxic products but that is not reason to feed your self with more poison...thats like saying its ok to eat rat poison in small amount because it will not kill you immediatelly
cleric022684 4 weeks ago
@cleric022684 Once again, exposure levels. Am I suggesting drinking mineral oil? Of course not. Once it absorbs into the wood, very little if any would actually get on the food. I'm also currently looking at two WHO reports that state the following: "Although a small percentage of ingested mineral oil is absorbed and deposited in various organs it is without any apparent harm." and "...there are no toxicological problems arising from the use of food grade mineral oil."
TheWoodWhisperer 4 weeks ago
wow i love it! my family makes hardwood furniture and ive been thinking of ways to make us of our cuttings ..im gonna try this! hope i can find varnsih for food items here in our place though
Themarcoabrillo 1 month ago
hi im new to wood working but i want to attempt this project with the original wood you have used but i also want to make another one but different colors black and red to be specific i was wondering if you knew certain types of wood that would work for me or if staining was an option im not sure about it being food safe with a stain though any help you can give will be greatly appreciated
A3ON119 1 month ago in playlist Wood Whisperer
@A3ON119 I wouldn't recommend staining anything intended for food. So it is going to be hard to get those exact colors. You could certainly get in the ballbark by using walnut and cherry....
TheWoodWhisperer 1 month ago
@TheWoodWhisperer ok thank you very much
A3ON119 1 month ago in playlist Wood Whisperer
got rough the bloodwood was fine still smooth but the maple isn't smooth anymore, I applied some more of that oil and let it sit overnight but that of course didn't magically fix it lol. I was wondering if you had any ideas for me, I was kind of hoping putting a varnish over it might help to make the surface more glassy but aside from already having oil soaked up by the board I've heard varnish can cloud wood.
s0medudeonline 2 months ago
@s0medudeonline Well first things first. I wouldn't recommend bloodwood for a cutting board. It is a naturally oily wood and I just don't like the idea of oily exotics around my food. That said, you are likely going to have problems with varnish too, since the natural oil in the bloodwood will prevent proper curing. And keep in mind, the varnish method is not intended to create a layer of gloss...only to seal the wood fibers. So you are probably best just sticking with the oil.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 months ago
Hello again, I've got a question similar to jtpryan's....I used bloodwood and hard maple for my board, went a bit thinner, and did a more simple design. I used the butcher block oil because it was cheap enough but also it has beeswax and carnauba wax. I followed the directions on the bottle (apply let sit 20 minutes and repeat) I gave each coat an extra ten minutes just because. After it was all said and done I used the cutting board and washed it by hand and as soon as the water hit it the
s0medudeonline 2 months ago
I already put mineral oil on. Can I put the salad bowl finish over it?
jtpryan 2 months ago
@jtpryan Well that can be tricky. Mineral oil never really cures so if you apply a varnish over it, you will have drying problems. I would recommend just using the board for a while and waiting for it to "dry out". Once most of the oil is absorbed or wears off, take the board back to the shop for a little sanding and then go for the varnishing method.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 months ago
Dishwasher safe?
s0medudeonline 2 months ago
@s0medudeonline Definitely not. Generally speaking, anything made of wood is not dishwasher safe.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 months ago
@TheWoodWhisperer thanks
s0medudeonline 2 months ago
Mark sorry to bother you but do I have to thin the salad bowl finish with mineral spirits.
shellandmark1 3 months ago
@shellandmark1 You don't have to. But I do recommend it. The thinner the finish is, the easier it absorbs. And the thicker it is, the more it stays on the surface. Absorption is really the key here.
TheWoodWhisperer 3 months ago
7 people got sawdust in their eyes
IWPRO 5 months ago
Whats the varnish your using called? I need an answer asap please
LaneTD15 6 months ago
@LaneTD15 General Finishes Arm R Seal or Behlens
TheWoodWhisperer 6 months ago
@TheWoodWhisperer thanks
LaneTD15 6 months ago
Can i buy something instead of mixing the varnish and mineral spearits
LaneTD15 6 months ago
@LaneTD15 General Finishes Arm R Seal is already pre-diluted for wiping. But I usually dilute the stuff even more for this application.
TheWoodWhisperer 6 months ago
@TheWoodWhisperer Thanks
LaneTD15 6 months ago
Thanks for the excellent video. I wish I had the tools and skill!
babyscarer 7 months ago
Nice videos. This would be a good way to make a chess board. Instead of gluing it end grain up you could cut slices off and glue then with the grain running the length of the board. I see a video in your future. LOL Haha.. Thanks -- TMFA
TheManFromAlaska 7 months ago
excellent video, would love to have that chopping board.
dchubad 8 months ago
isn't the mineral spirits used to thin the "Salad Bowl" finish is very toxic? (I mean even after cured)
uzadude 9 months ago
@uzadude nope. Its already in the salad bowl finish. By thinning I am just adding a little more.
TheWoodWhisperer 9 months ago
Good video. Nice and clear instructions.
benjamiy831 11 months ago
lol nice pun. good vid.
darkinmysilence 1 year ago
Well done! Thank you.
xcpsx 1 year ago
My wife has wood cutting boards that are designed to be used on both sides. Based on where you routed in your handles and the way you only showed one side of the board throughout the video, it would appear your board is only designed to be used on one side? That being the case, do you put your varnish or oil seal on just the business side or both? If just one side, what's to stop us from routing additional recessed handles next to the other ones and using both sides of the board?
abowen2 1 year ago
@abowen2 The board can certainly be used on both sides if desired, but I typically only use one side. And both sides are finished equally. So a different style of handle would certainly make the board more conducive to two sided use.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
@abowen2 I made a fantastic board following your instructions. Thank you so much, However, a day after my final perfectly smooth sanding (before finish)I ran my fingers over the surface and I could feel each and every one of the squares. I sanded again and immediately applied finish as you demonstrated. Now 8 hours after the final finish has dried, the wood is beginning to swell again and as before, I can feel the squares in the end grain again. Is this something I just have to live with?
abowen2 1 year ago
@abowen2 To some extent, yes. The lines will frequently show themselves when the board experiences a moisture change. But I find that this can diminish over time. I usually recommend using the board for a few months. After numerous uses, the board will be pretty rough. That's a good time to take it back in the shop, give it a light sanding to smooth everything out, and give it another coat or two of your finish of choice. At that point, it should stay smooth longer.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
Did you make a new board for every finish? Or did you take the previous finish off?
Jeromy2 1 year ago
@Jeromy2 I actually made several boards for the finishing demos.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
lol nut allergies are nutting to mess with rofl
IVIoNsTa360gaming 1 year ago
That was probably one of the most thorough and informational video i have seen. And the best part, he is not long winded like some of the other videos. GREAT JOB!
Also, you forgot to post the link for the varnish :D
alexthepunk 1 year ago
i don t have the equipment so i can t make it..)=
Rereman4 1 year ago
That moomoo was a nightmare.
dubsaloon 1 year ago
I like your sense of humor dude! lol
kokesanusa 1 year ago
I spend quite a bit of time in the Wood Shop. I really like your Videos and your detailed step by step instructions. I really like how you cover different options. Very nice. Keep up the good work.
ChristyC3Utubin 1 year ago
whats the piano music at background?
sarelle500gr 1 year ago
@sarelle500gr just royalty-free stuff from Apple.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
@sarelle500gr Unfortunately they don't give us the artists name most times.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
@TheWoodWhisperer I see thank you anyways.
sarelle500gr 1 year ago
Very VERY impressive. This is is fantastic. Thanks for posting.
ethomfactusest 1 year ago
Do you have to add a coat of mineral oil before the wax and mineral oil coat?
curtis2769 1 year ago
@curtis2769 You can certainly pre-load the board with oil if you want to, although I don't think its necessary.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
This is a brilliant video in all regards. Good info, well put together, nice editing, great background music, etc. 5 stars!
leonardgarthbrooks 1 year ago
this guy is cool, wish i had a friend like him. think of all the awesome gifts you would get :) haha
shifttradition 1 year ago
I think you've noticed - matt's basement workshop moved to another site, i think a annotation would be nice at that point. It's not a must, but i guess it would be a nice service. Great videos btw! :) I <3 them.
Xar0mir 1 year ago
Jango Reinhard in the background there? Great choice!
1339LARS 1 year ago
so can you stain the board before you put the varnish to it or will it not absorb as well?
madjack901 2 years ago
To be honest, I wouldn't stain a cutting board at all. Seems like too much of a chance that the dye particles could get into the food. But to answer the questions, some stains will tend to seal wood to some extent.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
Good video..About two years ago i had some wood left over from a deck job i did..When i was ask if i could make a bench,and some side flower pots holders..So i made them..To my surprise the neighbors, saw them and ask me to make them some too. So i did and since i have made about doziest or so..Now do to a heath problem i am not working. And thinking of doing some wood work to keep busy...I will keep my eye on your web site. In hope of getting help as i go alone...Thank you.....
joirjoja1 2 years ago
where did you get that glue roller?
scabberdoug 2 years ago
Its called a brayer and its usually used for spreading ink.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
awesome video tons of knowledge thanks for taking the time to make your the man
equinedentist72 2 years ago
I used this meathod to make my dad a chess table. It's beautifull, thaks for the inspiration! I subscribed.
m4xfl4xst4r 2 years ago
I really enjoy your videos and just subscribed. I want to get into wood working and had a couple questions that I hope you can give advice on. What types of projects would you suggest and what type of tools would you reccomend on a budget for a new person to this trade? I appreciate your response.
andyandeloda 2 years ago
Thanks for subscribing. I would be glad to help, but I would recommend emailing me from my site. Its a real pain answering long questions in YouTube comments.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
I recently made a cutting board out of Oak. It was not end grain. Everything seemed fine until I ran it under water. The surface became rough and I had to sand it and oil it again. It still gets fairly rough. I had originally sanded it quite thoroughly and used sunflower oil to finish it. I did not have access to a jointer and used a planer instead to joint the edges. Do you have any insight as to why the surface becomes rough everytime it gets wet?
JonasWHouse 2 years ago
My guess is that the oil you are using is not doing a good job of protecting the wood from moisture. The moisture is what raises the grain and gives you that rough appearance. What I would do is use the mineral oil/wax mixture on the board after you sand it the next time. That should give you a little more resistance to water.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
Would Walnut and Ash work well for a cutting board?
shaun1122 2 years ago
In my opinion, they work well for an endgrain board. But if you are doing a face grain board, they tend to have a lot of pits an pores on the surface where bacteria can hide, so they wouldn't be the best choice. But end grain is a different story. So in my opinion, yes, those would make a fine cutting board.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
nice job i was going to use maple and red oak any problem with that?? also at the 9:00 mark i saw a blade burn mark is that going to effect the glue up or does that need to addressed and if so how? thanks a wannabe woodworker
sleepermania 2 years ago
Well the burning is only on the top surface of that piece and that's a part that won't see any glue. So no real issues there. It does, however, need to be sanded away after the board is completely glued up.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
has anyone noticed that he switches boards? the pattern he builds is different than the one at the beginning and the one he finishes?
skellington1990 2 years ago
I made two boards at one time and just got them confused during filming. They are almost identical though. The position of the strips is the only difference.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
is the other board 4/4 lumber?
skellington1990 2 years ago
No its 8/4 as well.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
did you rip them? If its end grain than the width of each strip is the thickness of the lumber. The second board has 19 strips and the first is only 11? Meaning the thickness of the second was less
skellington1990 2 years ago
The only difference is the order the parts were assembled in in the first glueup. But it all came from 8/4 stock. In the second part, you'll see the smaller strips were placed at the center. In part one, you can see that the smaller strips were placed in the second row.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
So very beautiful (: thank you for the detailed instructions, can't wait to try it out (:
Andralynn 2 years ago
Where can I get that kind of wood?
RockinGuy1994 2 years ago
Many local hardwood dealers carry it. If you need an online source, try Bell Forest Products. they even have kits for this project.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
should you secure it some other way than just using glue? it seems that its possible it could seperate if it was accidently dropped or soemthing
565Customz 2 years ago
Nope. The glue bond is actually stronger than the wood itself. So in this case, its really all that's needed.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
what did you mix with the varnish?
BrendanRobert713 2 years ago
mineral spirits
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
Im in the middle of making my first cutting board. Everything is going as per the video. I cannot wait to finish it. Thank you. You should have your own TV show.
440exxxrider 2 years ago
i used 100% pure tung oil and it seemed to work well on a board a few months back
CnCkEl 2 years ago
Im going to have to try that on a board some day. Seems like a good alternative to mineral oil, without resorting to varnish.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
whats that tool called when you rounded the edges and how much is it
SlickReptiles 2 years ago
It was a round-over bit. Prices range widely depending on the quality of bit. It can be a few bucks to $20.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
Excellent set of vids mate. Love it....can't wait to get started on my cutting board. Cheers
Merced3z 2 years ago 2
Thanks for the great video lesson. I made two of these boards. The first I consider a learning experience. The second one turned out great. I followed your instructions to a T and the board is beautiful. Makes a great gift to give for Mothers Day.
milesm5280 2 years ago
is there any way you could share ideas about where the layman can get rock maple (or even birdseye) and purple heart? i mean..to be honest i think most of us do our shopping for materials at Lowe's, Home Depot, RP Lumber, Menard's etc....do these stores carry wood like that? where to buy the wood is my only problem i guess. the board looks really sweet and i have the tools to create something that seems relatively easy to make. but where to buy the wood???!!! thanks
melonheed3 2 years ago
I usually get my stuff from local hardwood dealers. You can also try mail order. Google Bell Forest Products. Great dealer!
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
naa man srry lowes or menards or anyother place like that doesnt carry more exotic woods, if you aint got em locally ur gonna have to special order em of the web i havent got a web sitre but il get back to ya.
Milby20289394bc 2 years ago
great video, I was wondering if this project would be good for a beginner such as myself?
p.s. love the random funny bits :P
chubswilband66 2 years ago
It will be challenging. But all good projects are :)
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
is the mineral oil and mineral oil/wax coating done on both sides???
NeoQuello 2 years ago
Oh yes. Treat both sides exactly the same.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
thanx... i'm a big knife fan, collector and maker... and i keep all my kitchen knives razor sharp... my cutting board don't last more than a year anna half... is this the best cutting board that could be made ever???
NeoQuello 2 years ago
lol well I would never say its the best ever, but its pretty damn good. If you're looking for the ultimate in durability, you just can't beat endgrain.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
can you use blue painters tape to avoid tear out?
torgy 2 years ago
You can, but sometimes is not as effective as I'd like it to be. But I do that trick all the time in different situations.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
yeah it's not a chess board so don't use a varnish
nlsnbebang 3 years ago
great videos
im in the middle of making a cutting board now thanks to these sweet instructions
thanks man!
JWallDW 3 years ago 9
sweet video man!
JWallDW 3 years ago 7
I love you.you explain everything step by step.
japanz1984 3 years ago 4
Keep in mind that even "food safe" varnishes like Salad Bowl finishes contain mineral spirits and naptha. So adding more doesn't really make the material any less safe. Once cured, these finishes are perfectly safe and will not transfer an odor or taste to you food. Check out the Nov. 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking for my article that covers this exact topic. There is an accompanying video on Popularwoodworking as well.
TheWoodWhisperer 3 years ago
Never use salad oil or any animal fats like crisco solid - it will become rancid and make the board taste bad which will transfer to the food. I've used mineral oil for as long as I've been alive, never a problem. Adding the beeswax gives it a hardener as does the paraffin. Not sure I'd drink mineral spirits so I doubt I'd use it to thin wiping varnisg plus the board will have an after taste and odor of the mineral spirits. USP or food grade (not technical) mineral oil is best.
rhblakeman 3 years ago
Wow! Thank you so much exactly the kind of informative stuff I have been looking for...
jeffblack6969 4 years ago
yer its really good :)
what finish would u recommend for say speakers or paint surface on more colour then a stain so it does not chip or scratch off so easy
larksp 4 years ago
I'm glad I found your site!
arayan83079 4 years ago 2
5 flashing stars ... great vid , fun to watch
Sogladpeter 4 years ago 2
Great videos! Very professional!
soverton 4 years ago
Great! Found part 2 ... great tips on the finishes.
thanks for the vids!
hometechnc 5 years ago 2
Excellent! Keep up the good work!
petmit 5 years ago 2
cool videos man!
slsmtg 5 years ago 2