If you decide to light it up, here is a trick I will show in a future video. Use only white or blue LEDs. For the White ones, if you need red, or another color, use transparent paint to change the color up. Works good. Now for power, if you use two AA batteries, you will not need a resistor on the LED's. And for something like this, the two AA batteries will power the ship for days.... You can hide the battery pack in the base and use a brass rod to get the wires to the ship.
I haven't built one of these in several years, so don't remember the parts exactly, but...
You would need two leds in the head, white for the windows and red for the sensor/torpedo tube. To separate those lights, you'll need to baffle them. The white could simply sit in the head. The red however would be best to stick inside a tube to block it from hitting the windows.
The back end of the kit part must be sliced off. Whether you can put the red led in that, or have to extend it with an additional tube. A 9v battery could likely go under teh impulse deck if that locks down by itself. If not, you'd have to run the battery wires out of the body. My Modeler's Brand LED 10 pack would be great for you, all you need to supply is a soldering iron.
The Klingon D-7 will look really good with LED's in with out it just would not look right.
startrekker99 1 month ago
If you decide to light it up, here is a trick I will show in a future video. Use only white or blue LEDs. For the White ones, if you need red, or another color, use transparent paint to change the color up. Works good. Now for power, if you use two AA batteries, you will not need a resistor on the LED's. And for something like this, the two AA batteries will power the ship for days.... You can hide the battery pack in the base and use a brass rod to get the wires to the ship.
badgrendels 1 month ago
Go for the lighting man, you can do it!
Some Trek canon for you, the original series Klingon D-7 didn't have a torpedo tube at the front.
It was an antenna / deflector system on those ships.
The Romulan version of the D-7 did have the tube at the front.
Later, during the Trek Movies, the ships were changed and we saw the torpedo tube at the front being used.
That's only if your following canon of coarse and it will be cool however you do it.
Totally agree about you tube. Hope they reconsider.
TrekWorks 1 month ago
I haven't built one of these in several years, so don't remember the parts exactly, but...
You would need two leds in the head, white for the windows and red for the sensor/torpedo tube. To separate those lights, you'll need to baffle them. The white could simply sit in the head. The red however would be best to stick inside a tube to block it from hitting the windows.
ModelManTom 1 month ago
The back end of the kit part must be sliced off. Whether you can put the red led in that, or have to extend it with an additional tube. A 9v battery could likely go under teh impulse deck if that locks down by itself. If not, you'd have to run the battery wires out of the body. My Modeler's Brand LED 10 pack would be great for you, all you need to supply is a soldering iron.
ModelManTom 1 month ago
Micro Krystal clear is supposed to be good for sealing windows. It's basically a white glue. Using the decals as a template is a great idea.
ModelManTom 1 month ago
The 1k D7 is an easy kit that goes together pretty well.
ModelManTom 1 month ago
@ModelManTom I have used it for windows on more than one ocassion, just thin it a bit with water first and it will work great!
badgrendels 1 month ago