Indoor Rock Climbing Techniques : Dyno vs. Static Indoor Rock Climbing Techniques

[myungskywalker]

0:48 *cameraman pulls out his penis*

[ConquistadorCaesar]

A lot of these Expert Village videos are worthless.

[AthleteCreator]

Did you say suave-E?

[leonavis]

Actually, there are a lot of situations in bouldering when it is useful to make a dyno. Also there are a lot of situation where it is useful to stop using your feet. This can be useful, it doesn't have to be. But when you know when it is, you can profit a lot from training this in particular. It may help you climb cleaner and better.

[Alexsb4010]

You climb like a man haha ,oh ye sorry u r , women don't need to do those altho we can u guys always usin ur upper body showin off ur big muscles , ya can't use those moves climbing a 400 ft rock face outdoors !!!!!

[gryphontaboo]

You're a dumbass

[MagnumROCKSTAR1]

Is it me or did he forget to explain to us how to do a dyno

[XVXBEAVERXVX]

What he forgot to say is that dyno is a last ditch move, it is risky uses lots of energy and usually you dont land it. Dynos are usually only done when no holds are within reach, other than that they look cool but not much else ahha

[naval8viator]

@XVXBEAVERXVX You obviously don't climb very often. I land dyno's with a fairly decent average, and I'm by no means a top climber. Often, dyno's use LESS energy than coring up your whole body and using massive body tension to pull the move statically.

[joker69390]

i can't dyno.. any tips? i always jump but cannot get a grip on the rock(especially jugs -.-)

[calebjablonski]

@joker69390 increase your hand strength

[skittle68]

I'm only 5' tall, so I frequently have to dyno on harder climbs. When I dyno, I like to lean against the rope just to steady myself before I leap. My bf thinks this is "cheating" and drops me a few inches when I put any pressure on the rope. If the holds aren't great (it isn't always a spot where you are supposed to need to dyno), and that is the only way I can get up the wall, then what is the problem?? I'm trying to get better by doing harder climbs, and sometimes when you're moving up, you h

[cowsarecarnivores]

@skittle68 your relying on something other than your climbing ability.  (The rope). Thats cheating

[weBeenjammin]

@skittle68 i wouldnt call it cheating at all. if i get tired during a climb ill lean on the rope just to gather some strength before continuing.

[pleber2012]

i dont think you have enough holds on that bouldering wall...

[experience32123]

hmm... ezio auditore da firenze, THUMBS UP!!

[ArcticSheep]

dynoing is fuckin epic

[stefano1oo1]

0:01

[ScavengerData]

He has two first names :/

[TheDanielRagsdale]

your videos improved through out the series

good series

[ryanclimber12]

dyno is way better

[Petzlfan]

@ryanclimber12 not to a tiny sharp crimp or a compression sloper.

[noelsoong777]

i at the end of climbs or tight spots i just say fuck it (dyno)

[jerel011]

I like 49:00 secunds

[add9000]

Down at my wall, theres like a 7a, but the last move is a dyno, AND its in a corner, so i hate it cause i know im gonna end up falling and dragging my face down the wall to the next clip.

[WhereLifeOnceStood]

bouldering is fun, but only for indoors. Lead Climbing is way more fun than anything. but def. Static an Dyno are extremely fun for indoors.

[Dave1507]

and that are supposed to be the same holds?

well... they weren´t..

[TheChasifer]

lol what a nerd!

[danull16]

some holds (i.e. small crimps) cannot be had making dynamic moves therefore a static move is essential. and some routes have large gaps between holds therefore a dyno is essential. just depends on the route. nice to have both moves perfected though.

[aSheeple]

@danull16 ive dyno'd a crimp before, it was awesome.

[climber974]

static is better for training

[jersievers]

They are both completely essential, how can you say they are not. For the same sequence on the same route, no. But for gym climbing or setting you can absolutly force these movements.

[BillyBobsEel]

if tehre are two options then realy neiter is essensial

[Dalamon1]

Well...not everytime u have choice between dyno and static movements. Sometime u Must go static ar youll hurt yourself , and sometimes u cant couse u wont make it.

[Daventrev]

Even though a good dyno looks cool, and I like to show off doing them, I much prefer the Static method to improve technique and good practice..

[Dalamon1]

yeh, but for me it really depends on boulder that iam doing, (or when i cant make some part , ill get angry and just jump) :)

[NullusxVotum]

for say you have a jug a good 2 feet out of reach, what are you gonna do? dyno it!

[nindes]

these videos are annoyingly short

[saad1505]

this guy is bad ass

[AKAllTC90]

holy crap there are a lot of holds on that wall

[stevomillz]

thats what i thaught!!!

[yeahemocrew]

dont dyno if your lead climber...it wont end well (youll fall and hurt somebody or urself

[poorboychevelle]

You can dyno on lead... our gym sets lead routes with forced dynos in them. Yes, it is slightly more risky, but if you stick it, theres no difference. And if you fall, then your belayer just needs to catch the whip. No biggie.

[boxsterwelby]

okay. This is about bouldering.

[doshinkanbitz]

Do you ever lead? because I know that about 30 percent of the routs that are on my score card above 5.11d include a dyno for me! And I am five foot ten so that means that most people who climb have to dyno on lead if they want to climb some of the coolest routs out there!

[doshinkanbitz]

Yeah... Um that is what I said, I mean I just thought most people understood that you do what the climb asks you for. Sometimes, in fact most of the time, you move in a static fashion. However you may need to be more dynamic. Sometimes so dynamic you cut all for points loose. That is not that crazy advanced.

[doshinkanbitz]

then write you comments in Dutch. Because in English (the language you are using) leading is when you do not to rope, rather you have the rope start piled and sport or trad climb the pitch. In English the term is free soloing or, just simply soloing. Dear god, argue and criticize only when you have any idea what you are writing.

[thejanitor99]

What are you talking about? It's not a ridiculous claim; I dyno on lead too. I did it yesterday and ended up snapping a hold off with my foot.

[ixGeminixi]

@HosteDenis I dyno on lead if the route requires it (many do), perhaps you should just grow some balls and accept that the rest of the climbing community isn't scared to do what is in fact generally safe and controlled?

[HosteDenis]

@ixGeminixi No sir, I do not need to grow some balls. As I already said in my post, I was lost in translation. I thought that what you people called leading was what you call free soloing. I meant to say dynoing while free soloing is playing with your life. Well, free soloing is playing with your life anyway.

[BrentonSteinhilber]

@HosteDenis

Not sure what was said earlier, but I've gotta agree with you. I've already had countless injuries from bouldering indoors (with pads. Actually broke my ankle ON a pad once) alone-- Can't imagine ever free soloing. I think it's pointlessly endangering oneself. I don't think anybody should ever do it.

If you do free solo, that's your choice. But I'd always recommend against it, no matter how strong of a climber one is.

[silverimperial]

@HosteDenis why comment if u got no idea whats what in the first place?.........lol dont matter i guess anyway....

[traverpen]

@HosteDenis eating twinkies/McDonalds and watching youtube all day is wasting your life. I'd rather play with it than waste it.

[mnutt12]

I hate when people call it indoor rock climbing. There's not rock climbing involved, its just gym climbing.

[TheLloyd85]

cool dyno if your a girl.

[ArmageddonsRevenge]

wat du u mean

[TheLloyd85]

i meant that dyno would be impressive if a girl were to do it. that tall retard SHOULD be able to do much better.

[ArmageddonsRevenge]

That isnt very nice stop being mean

[lightthatblinds]

Dynos are great for efficiency. However, pumping like he did is just wasted energy. For lateral dynos, it makes sense. For vertical ones like that, though, it's just wasting energy. A single swing to rock up to your feet is all that's required.

Also, pumping to "psych up" is nonsense. Just wasting energy. John Sherman calls it "pumping doubt", which is a great description.

[deadflagbluesxxx]

Everybody has their philosophy behind climbing and I understand that. Though, my most incredible dynos have been off a pump. Different strokes for different folks. Not everybody is a rock warrior. Haha..

[yeahemocrew]

dyno is easier 4 me

[ArmageddonsRevenge]

can you please tell me how to do a dyno i need help write it down in steps.

[huyiy]

still need help for this? i see ur comment is 2 months old.

[kerethan]

Just google it. All their going to say to you in a course is "blalbalba dead point. blablabla, stick it, bla bla Belive in yourself."

There you go, 300 dollars please.

[LaLaLaflobble]

Kick ass Dyno man!

Personally, my Dyno's arn't fantastic, so I tend to stick to static moves. But i'm certainly going to try and work on them, they have real advantages when you can't find a solution to a problem that's within your normal reach!

[pipsicles]

Dynos look better, but thats nothing to do with it, if im lead climbing I'll do it static, if I'm bouldering I usually try and dyno.

[Chooky07]

For lead climbing it really helps to be able to dyno. Try and get more confidence.

[wenclgreg]

dynamic vs static

[canyonsclimber92]

that was a bad ass dyno...

[aeon2012]

I agree.