Great video, really useful. Btw there are some flashy new woodworking videos out there but they don't get to the point the way yours do! Thanks for the tips.
Outstanding video! thank you so much for posting. I just purchased my first plunge router (a hitachi KM12VC) and i noticed that the plunge action isn't very smooth. yours seemed to stick a bit when you were raising it the first time too - is that normal?
@nialljamesbuckley If your router is catching a little as it slides up and down the posts, you can try a little dry lubricant to make it easier to use. A good example of this type of product is Dri-Tool Lubricant from Empire Manufacturing
First and foremost I wish to thank you on using the router. I bought a router to cut a piece of wood for the eding of the cabine in a "L" shape. Your explanation is obvious. However, I don't know how to use the router. The indonesian worked in one of the shop demonstrated to me by taking the example of the edge of the cabinet wood in L shape and measured to use the bit of the router. However I did not manage to cut the required depth of the piece wood used for the cabinet.
Have you thought about using an old hollow-square mortice chisel, to square off the mortices? If it's sharp and is of the exact size,a few taps of a mallet makes a super job. No need to round the ends of tenons and is much quicker.
Not teaching you to suck eggs of course my friend. Just a thought. Thanks again and best of luck.
I found that it takes me about a minute to square the ends with a chisel; just use a chisel the exact size of the mortise. Having a square mortise gives the joint better support against twisting as well as more gluing surface area.
You show in the beginning that you've installed a fence at the bottom of your router. How did you install it, and where does it rest when the router is on the legs?
thanks, I'm trying to learn to do all this stuff....
@ben92282 Most routers are made to accept a fence of some kind. In this case posts on the fence slide through holes in the router base, and can be locked in place. It’s a pretty common approach. When using the router the fence rides against the edge of the piece, in this case the side of the leg.
If you are doing a one off then using the V bit is fine but a much more permanent sulution and I am amased this is not something they come from the factory, is SCRIBE a line on the router base parrallel to the fence exactly where the center of your V is. then do another perpendicular to the fence. Next time just measure off the scribed line.
great tips very handy,i am a learner getting my first router next week .
tigertruckerman 12 hours ago
Great video, really useful. Btw there are some flashy new woodworking videos out there but they don't get to the point the way yours do! Thanks for the tips.
SeanWoodhouse 1 week ago
@SeanWoodhouse Thanks for the feedback! We really appreciate it!
wwgoaeditor 1 week ago
Good video,
Btw what F Clamps are you using, they look slick!
Cheers
mango1502 1 week ago
You cut the cut!
maoldhomhnaigh 1 month ago
that was great. solved a problem for me and gave me another idea. what type of bit did you use to drill down into the wood?
loffdogg 2 months ago
@loffdogg A standard straight bit will be fine for making mortises.
wwgoaeditor 2 months ago
exelent demonstration
butchd18 2 months ago
@butchd18 Thanks and happy woodworking!
wwgoaeditor 2 months ago
Great video, very useful. Thanks!
waysgoose 2 months ago
Outstanding video! thank you so much for posting. I just purchased my first plunge router (a hitachi KM12VC) and i noticed that the plunge action isn't very smooth. yours seemed to stick a bit when you were raising it the first time too - is that normal?
nialljamesbuckley 3 months ago
@nialljamesbuckley If your router is catching a little as it slides up and down the posts, you can try a little dry lubricant to make it easier to use. A good example of this type of product is Dri-Tool Lubricant from Empire Manufacturing
wwgoaeditor 3 months ago
I feel so stupid, I had not thought to simply round of the corners to make that work.
startreking2007 3 months ago
More than 1 leg to stand on? cheeky pun :P
walesxscarlets 4 months ago
Excellent Tips, very useful indeed. Thank You.
elvis459 5 months ago
Great tips George, tracing outside the router base, centering with a V-bit.
Nice humour as well (legs to stand on, running away).
Thanks.
joninio58 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Very clear and simple
lovegarbage 8 months ago
Dear George,
First and foremost I wish to thank you on using the router. I bought a router to cut a piece of wood for the eding of the cabine in a "L" shape. Your explanation is obvious. However, I don't know how to use the router. The indonesian worked in one of the shop demonstrated to me by taking the example of the edge of the cabinet wood in L shape and measured to use the bit of the router. However I did not manage to cut the required depth of the piece wood used for the cabinet.
rahmatnews 8 months ago
George,
Thanks.
Have you thought about using an old hollow-square mortice chisel, to square off the mortices? If it's sharp and is of the exact size,a few taps of a mallet makes a super job. No need to round the ends of tenons and is much quicker.
Not teaching you to suck eggs of course my friend. Just a thought. Thanks again and best of luck.
Woodrow Lister
woodlist 9 months ago
Nice tips and thoughtful tricks. Thank you.
dubsaloon 1 year ago
Good stuff--- Thanks
RKKDesign 1 year ago
I found that it takes me about a minute to square the ends with a chisel; just use a chisel the exact size of the mortise. Having a square mortise gives the joint better support against twisting as well as more gluing surface area.
jjenson2006 1 year ago
You show in the beginning that you've installed a fence at the bottom of your router. How did you install it, and where does it rest when the router is on the legs?
thanks, I'm trying to learn to do all this stuff....
ben92282 1 year ago
@ben92282 Most routers are made to accept a fence of some kind. In this case posts on the fence slide through holes in the router base, and can be locked in place. It’s a pretty common approach. When using the router the fence rides against the edge of the piece, in this case the side of the leg.
wwgoaeditor 1 year ago
Excellent presentation. Well demonstrated. Thanks.
tinfoilsuit 1 year ago
GOODMAN GEORGE. IT IS A RELIEF TO SEE A MAN WHO KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING. SOME OF THE OTHER VIDEOS FELLAS PUT ON ARE JUST PLAIN NASTY.....
AMULET72 1 year ago
you are a smart man george vondriska!
MrGrammers 1 year ago
@MrGrammers Thanks! We're glad you're enjoying the videos! be sure to check out even more videos & articles at wwgoa.com
wwgoaeditor 1 year ago
You are the man
Scrap5000 1 year ago
George...
Sage advice!
Good video!
OldSchoolSkill 1 year ago
I love watching people who know what they are doing ... very useful video!
aNdYmAtTeR 1 year ago 2
@aNdYmAtTeR Thanks for the positive comment!
wwgoaeditor 1 year ago
Wow!! Usefull video. Thanks a million times.
minoune86 1 year ago
great idea , great work, great video .. everything is great :-)
rudoatlas 1 year ago
Making the marks around the base of the router is a good idea. That's much easier than trying to see through the chips. Thanks!
DrThunder88 1 year ago
very nice !!
dragonxtz 1 year ago
If you are doing a one off then using the V bit is fine but a much more permanent sulution and I am amased this is not something they come from the factory, is SCRIBE a line on the router base parrallel to the fence exactly where the center of your V is. then do another perpendicular to the fence. Next time just measure off the scribed line.
fonitrus 2 years ago
LOADS of very useful tips in here. Thanks
jAcKtHeGyPsYmOtH 2 years ago
Thank you. very helpful. Liked the way you got that depth without any measuring.
Vervello 2 years ago
NICE
hankok87 2 years ago
Excellent!! Exactly what I wanted to learn - thanks!
Hoods7070 2 years ago
Very, very well presented.
stannn1000 2 years ago
Thanks, i will use this method for my next mortises!
pieriepieliepielo 2 years ago
Very informative! Thanks!
C3DesignBuild 3 years ago