Added: 10 months ago
From: TheEnglishRedneck45
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  • damn, what wood is that? looks like gold in wood world

  • I hope you posted this to the pathfinder school's channel.

  • Lulz people move to china for better craftsman ship that place is crazy!

  • just a little advice about the blisters.  just get a bit of dry dusty dirt and rub your bands with it. works like chalk for rock climbers.

  • interesting your note says that a lot of them have that gap like a casting.. yet their advertising clearly says these are all Handmade items.. which can only mean hand forged.

  • @muncleike I'd go with the cold steel hawks if the money's tight. I can't afford the two hawks price tag. Kinda disappointed to see that belt loop job there. Shows a lack of pride in what they're producing.

  • so can anyone suggest a nice hawk for around the same price? i wanted to buy one from Dave he has taught me alot here on youtube. but i can't afford to throw money away just to be nice.not saying i will not get it ,just not sure if theres a better deal out there.

  • @muncleike ebay search a man name Craig Barr or youtube he has vids showing the quailty of his hand forged hawk heads, different metal alloys to choose from and designs from hammer, spike and damascus

    i would have order from him but i dont have a paypal account so ordered a pathfinder hawk waiting to see it in the mail, cant go wrong with a 25 limited warrenty

  • the head comn lose on an axe is a problem that has never ben solved

  • cheap, poor casting , that big hole in the middle is a weak spot and the stampings look amiture , not worth that kind of money

  • The hole is part of the molding process. Its completly normal with the way these are made.

  • I've done my research on the maker of these hawks. He has several designs. I would like the one from Pathfinder, with their logo and all. But I do not deal well with incompetence, if this is indeed what takes so long for shipping. It could be he orders them from 2Hawks, and has to wait for them to arrive before shipping them to the customer. I don't know. But I am not a patient man. What do you recommend, sir. The maker (Devin Price) advertises them for $125 plus shipping. What say you? ~Wolf

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  • after*

  • 1 drop of oil ater eatch time you hawe yoused it and ther will never be a problem

  • @Dregowz Good advice - that is indeed what I do.

  • I got my 2Hawks Longhunter yesterday. The belt holder is now much better made than yours, it is fully stitched and along with the blade sheath, nicely finished.

    Devin Price, who makes them is pretty uncommunicative, didn't respond by email. I had to phone him a couple of times to get him to send it, took over a month in the end.

    I'm really pleased with it.

    As you said, it is very light, and beautifully made.

  • @jezzafox Sounds like he wants to do business! Interesting that a producer would not want to sell something - perhaps they just deal with distributors, or do they advertise for individual sales too?

    Good to hear the stitching is superior - certainly should be for something made in the US if they don't want people to shop overseas.

    Enjoy your new toy man!

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 He has no distributors here, I think he is just not well organised. I bought it through his website using paypal, so buying it was no problem, he just took ages to send it.

  • I agree with the guy below me, fill it with JB Weld or an epoxy, just make sure you clean and lube it well prior.

  • the gaps are holes to drain water if the pouch ever gets wet, it is well made, and usually people often confuse the purpose of things like that

  • @sneakyninja273 Yes indeed - I have since been informed numerous times that it is a drainage hole. However, the other faults I pointed out on this one, certainly show it as not being particularly well made! However, the Pathfinder School are sending over the newer model, so perhaps their 'hawk shall be vindicated.

    Cheers

  • nice hawk! i may have to buy one. just a few thoughts though, the stiff snap on the sheath could be smoothed out by rubbing some bar soap on the male side of the snap. Also, the hole in the blade would not likely ever be a problem with strength but , if it bugs ya try to fill it with"JB WELD".

  • Hi,I have an old model cold steel "rifle man " tomahawk use it most weekend's when I'm out doing my thing,If I lose it or damage it behohd repair they have a life-time warrenty as with most cold steel products do.love all there stuff,On the pactical side,its much easier to remake a tomahawk handle than a "Graft brucks" axe

  • @6390721 The Pathfinder School also have a lifetime warrant yon their 'hawk heads - it seems a good policy to have, so long as they aren't difficult about it, such as with Ontario Knife and Tool who state a lifetime warranty, but the claims process is reportedly dire.

    And I would agree - remaking some of those handles takes a huge amount of skill.

    Cheers

  • You should wrap the end of the handle with paracord 550, that will prevent hurting your hand. It was designed that way... the gap in the leather is a drain hole; city boy indeed....:-)!

  • @BigRooster747 Yes indeed, I have since been enlightened as to the purpose of the sheath hole! However I would disagree about wrapping the handle in paracord, as it would remove the ability to take off the head for transport unless you unwrapped and wrapped the handle every time. Answer - gloves!

    Worked a treat.

    Cheers

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  • WOW I was just about to buy one, So glad I saw your video, You saved a lot of my bacon, Many thanks! yea very disappointed and I know that Dave must be very upset about this, Its very embarrassing to him and very discrediting

  • @danhkd25 Just a quick note though - Mr Canterbury has been in contact to say the new 'hawks do not have these issues. Worth bearing in mind, as if these issues have been sorted then this'll be a lovely, lovely hawk to own and use.

  • Youd be better off getting a trailhawk and stripping the coating off.

  • Good looking 'hawk but the hole in the metal turned me off. wont buy it unless they correct that

  • @LetsGo6009 I totally understand where you are coming from - but I must say that the Pathfinder School have said the hole ought not to compromise the strength of the head, and if the head were to ever fail, they will replace it. This is what they say - I have not fortunately had to test their replacement service yet!

    Cheers

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 Im still considering buying it, I really like that hickory handle. I'm not a Rambo wannabe so i dont care much for the 'tactical' hawks; Ive no use for a spike end, I need a hammer end for driving spikes out in the woods. If they really have corrected the problem with the ehad then I might pick it up.  We'll see. Thanks for the reply

  • @LetsGo6009 There is an interesting series about 'hawk balance by a chap called zzzombies here on youtube - he discusses the function of a trail weight / spike on the back of a hawk as a sort of balancing weight for primary edge strikes, rather than simply being 'tactical' additions to a 'hawk. I however share your indifference to the 'tactical' look of certain maker's tomahawks - this one looks just how I like them.

    I'll shoot you over the video once the new one has arrived/tried out.

    Cheers

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 I'll check out zzzombies, thanks for the suggestion and for sending me any vids. Cheers

  • @LetsGo6009 Hello again - following my last response to you about Pathfinder School sending out their new one for 'vindication' - he has now fallen silent, and I have heard nothing since. So, perhaps we can conclude the problems have not been solved, hence why they cannot send out a 'superior' model to their supposeduly inferior and earlier product? Just a heads up.

  • You're doing it wrong...

  • @T1meW4st3d Care to specify what I am doing wrong?

  • yeah it's a bloody shame that was made in america

  • Wow super glue and no leaher dye. Id say cheaply made is an understatement. I like the hawk head itself though.

  • @slab698 Absolutely, the head itself is beautiful - the blueing is just stunning, as is the hickory handle, but the glue and shoddy dye work - not cool.

    Cheers

  • Fill the hole with soder

  • @bladezndrumz That would be a very good plan to anyone viewing this with a similar problem. Cheers

  • You will not find a better tonahawk ... Even at less than half the price !!

  • It's pretty, it's expensive and has a lot of flaws. Like my girlfriend. Thank you for being so honest and pointing out those flaws. I'd never pay 100 bucks of my money for that. I'll stick to my Cold Steel Trail Hawk that I have and will continue to beat until it's death, and keep the pretty, flawed and expensive things out of the woods, where they belong.

  • @MrJoeyBoombotz Hahahah, nice one, nice one. Flaws can be endearing though!

    I do take pleasure in using finely crafted tools for their purpose though - and even though this one does have its flaws, I do enjoy using it. It just looks superb when it's embedded in a tree.

    Thank you for commenting sir, I appreciate it

  • @MrJoeyBoombotz True. I get it! The metal does look superb. A nice reddish tint to the hickory handle would compliment it well.

  • Also there is no hole in the head of my hawk as in this pathfinder hawk (and apparently almost all the other ones) which leads me to think perhaps the lower price point of Dave's hawk may mean they had to cut a few steps out of the process to meet his needs. As far as fit and finish my overall opinion of the pathfinder hawk by 2hawk is a B- at best, the 2hawk Long hunter on the other hand is a solid A+. I don't believe these are the same hawk at all. Hope this helps any interested in purchase.

  • I have just received a brand new 2hawk Long hunter to see if perhaps they share common defects. I believe that though they are identical in shape and size, these are two different animals altogether! My Long hunter's sheath does not have the gaps/bad stitching and the dye job was perfect throughout (I removed the stitches and replaced the thread with a uv protected thread) and the sheath overall was quite well done if only a bit dry but a bit of saddle soap cured that.

  • @CptUndrPants Very interesting indeed sir, thank you for sharing. That is intriguing.

    2Hawks seem to be more highly regarded certainly, but there seems to be a mad rush for these Pathfinder 'hawks now. Rumours are there is a waiting list for these...

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 There are still none available on the pathfinder site but if you buy it direct from Devin at 2hawks it takes roughly 3 weeks turnaround and hes a great guy and a pleasure to do business with.

  • @CptUndrPants Lovely, thank you for the information on that. Cheers

  • good handle...hickory is the hardest of the north american woods..or so I have been told..nice blade too...can you tell I am a wood worker

  • @TheMrBlackCrow Hickory is a lovely wood indeed, but I wouldn't necessarily say the handle is 'good'. The wood may be so, but the handle itself is rather narrow and would fit only the smallest of hands for comfortable long term use. Cheers for watching

  • Nice balanced commentary, could be a reference for how to reviews knives and axes and such in a fair and respectful manner.

    Are you still using his tomahawk? Anything to add if so?

  • @CliffStamp Thank you sir, that is very kind of you to say. Can't think of a nicer compliment!

    I am indeed still using it - hard to put down, it feels lovely, not to mention how it looks, and smells even.That hickory handle has such a lovely aroma.

    I'll certainly be putting up an update style video on this one, showing what it can do, or rather what I can do with it which is certainly no where near its actual potential.

    Thank you once again sir, I greatly appreciate it. Makes reviews worthwhile.

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 Excellent, look forward to it.

  • Great review, after watching your review a couple times, I decided I have to have one. Even though I have no wood or trees to chop. I suppose I could use it if I go camping, or use it as a back up to home defense in case my pistol jams, then its hand to hand!!!

  • @thehotsixer Lovely stuff, and thank you for the kind words.

    It certainly would be useful for camping, and indeed hiking, what with the detachable head.

    I hope you never do have to defend your home, but if you did, it would not only be a supremely stylish way of doing so, but also, you would certainly be the victor! Cheers for watching

  • As for the belt loop why don't you use brown boot polish and polish it up aswell as for the sheath for the Hawk make a plan stan and stop complaining about it!

  • @Sunclief Yes indeed, I did just that. The reason I show the problems with this tomahawk is that other people may have the same issues if they were to buy it. It depends on their personal reasons for purchasing it if such faults matter. A pure collector will not want such terribly done leather. The axe head fault could also play a big part in the decision to buy, or indeed not to, even for a user. I could in no good conscience show this tomahawk without noting the multiple faults. Thank you.

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 Just had a look at that hole in the head and that put me off. What if you put oil in the hole? Epoxy might be another option? Other than that it's a very nice option for bushcraft.

  • @Sunclief There you go - complaints can be useful sometimes! The Pathfinder School have said that more more of these 2Hawks tomahawks have the hole than do not. They say it should not compromise the integrity of the axe, and if it does ever break, they will replace it. That being said, I still don't like seeing that hole in an axe head. It is apparently common in the casting process however.

    Epoxy is indeed a very good move - I have not filled it in, just to see what may happen under use. Cheers

  • cold steel hawks can be 10 times that hawk with a few simple mods and is cheaper

  • @cammie500 Bold claim. Do you have any experience with this 'hawk?

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 First off I would like to say thanks for doing a review on this hawk. try as i might there is just not enough exposure on these 2 hawk made tomahawks to make a confident purchase. Would really love to see how she's coming along. Perhaps a follow up video? Anything i can get on this hawk would be greatly appreciated! Cheers.

  • @CptUndrPants My pleasure - and thank you for watching.

    I'll have a crack at putting one up later this week - this one certainly is an oft requested 'hawk for featuring.

    Cheers

  • That "Gap" is there for a reason, it drains water that collects inside.

  • @Zaharkl Sorry Zaharkl, but water shouldn't be able to collect inside the head, under any circumstances. If water were to, it would rust the entire head from the inside out, being a carbon steel. The manufacturers themselves say it is a fault, and will replace any head with this defect. The comments below give some suggestion as to why the hole has formed. Thank you

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 im talking about the leathersheath

  • @Zaharkl Ahh, ok. Now I understand - sorry for my confusion. That is indeed very possible, and makes perfect sense. I guess I had never thought of water being able to get trapped in there anyway due to its loose nature, but that certainly would be a vaild reason for that gap. Cheers

  • @ microglia1 Your physics are a bit off. The centripital force is applied to the head by the fat end of the haft, since this is the force that is causing the head to swing in a curve rather than following an inertial straight line. The head naturally will want to fly off the end (so that it can continue straight on), not move toward the center of the arc. This is the effect of inertia which people refer to as a 'centrifugal' force. Bottom line, the head wants to fly off tangentially, the haft

  • The downside to a front-bolt system is the increased mass at the head, which requires more energy to swing due to increased outer inertia-think of racing car wheels (mass is designed around the hub not rim). So there are trade offs. Looks like I just need to make my own tomahawk to be truly happy.

  • I have thought about disassembling issue. I just don't think the design is good at all. That head could just as easily slide towards you. When you swing the axe, the head (due to high mass) will be pulled towards you via centripetal force (F=mvsquared/r), so the faster you swing (increase velocity), higher chance of massive head accelerating to the center (your hands) from the look of it. I think a better design would have the head be removable from the front, via a bolt down/lock system.

  • so i watch you video again...you should seriously learn basic leatherwork, you need about 30 quids of materials to make a very high quality sheath. You can easily wrap the wooden handle with leather, to insulate shock...it's really easy. Worst case scenario, learn woodsworking and build your own handle...again, very easy to fabricate. Hell, even the axe head can be home forged from cheap wheel drum, though that I haven't tried.

  • @Microglia1 Yes indeed, I hope to do just that over the summer. I have also got a friction folder in the works which should be a good spot of training and experimentation. Now a leather wrapped handle - I honestly had not thought of that before. How daft. It could work very well indeed, but then, the axe head would be restricted in coming off, which is why I got this axe in the first place, so perhaps some form of removeable, securable handle cover. I have already built my castle - made of sand!

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 There are two ways to wrap, one using glue & other using needle and stitches. You can buy leather wrap (I use Brooks..and English Bicycle Saddle mfg.) made for bicycle handlebar. Apply glue around the handle and wrap this around. Then sand the overlapping edges down, and apply your own leather dye. The other way is to use a tubular leather piece (from Tandy Leather), and stitch along the bottom or top edge. The gluing method=cue poole, hockey stick; stiching=equestrian

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 First of all thanks for the review; I just love that bluing.

    Let me warn you away from leather wrapped handles - they exacerbate blistering. Gloves are far better - any slipping (and thus friction) occurs between the glove and your hand, whereas a rubber haft will put the friction between the leather and your skin.

    Leatherworking is easy and well oiled leather protects axe and sheath, but you might also consider Kydex - it never rots and you can buy sheath making kits.

  • @032125 Evening, and thank you for your advice. The leather wrap could never really be an option anyway - the primary reason I admired this 'hawk so much was the ability to remove the head and a leather wrap wouldn't allow that. Gloves are indeed a superior solution, furthermore you can use them on all other tools, rather than making many leather wraps for every tool. Leather just has that feel and look that for me, works so well with old-school blades, and as you say, helps avoid rust. Cheers

  • With that said, we have many more "industrialised" countries now then before, to the extent that a screw made in Taipei is not very different from one made in Birmingham as far as quality is concerned. So maybe we are see better quality in these products for the time, until even Taiwan is too expensive and the mfg. moves production to Bulawayo for profit. So quality is not just dependent on production origin but also the time it was made, as well as advancement in techniques and other factors.

  • hint for the hole inside the Head of your Axe Head when you clean it down with some mutton fat or Dripping just push some into the hole each time your putting it a way and that should stop any problems you might have with rust.. I hope the tip helps out as mutton fat is one of the best loobs around it's been used for ever...

  • JB weld or go to a muffler or exhaust shop and give the welder 5 bucks to fill it, it'll take him all of 5 seconds to stick a mig welder in there.

  • @ScoundrelzNTwK Yes indeed - a spot of JB weld should do the trick, thank you for the suggestion. With regards a welder - do you think the extreme heat of the welder might not damage the heat-treat on one of these? True it is not on the blade itself, but I'd be concerned about a possible reduction in structural integrity of the head itself. Any ideas?

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 It won't hurt it one bit with the welder, the steel is far to thick to be damaged by something like that. With a MIG welder too, the heat will only be applied for a second or 2, welders also adjust the heat for the thickness of the metal.

    In fact, its really not being hurt to just leave the hole in it structurally speaking, but I like my stuff to be perfect so that is how i would go about fixing it, MIG weld and grind it flush.

  • What surprises me is the Taiwanese stuff on the market are now of really high quality...this is my preferred "on the cheap" tools.

  • @Microglia1 I must say, overseas stuff such as you mention with Taiwan is really gaining in quality. I think it shows what decent quality, such as with Spyderco, can achieve, so long as their standards are maintained. I am worryling impressed with the Sanrenmu knives that are coming across from china. No wonder they are the exact same factory that reputedly Buck and Spyderco use. Swedish is always good especially their cutlery. Then again where is this 'overseas' boundary? Always a good question

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 In the old days, production is integrated so the only thing done overseas is the materials. The machineries used to make a product, R&D personnel, manual workers, and even little things like screws and bolts are supported inside the country. All this allow better control of quality. Most products today are not made that way, so even "swiss made" or "UK made" are only calculated by total value cost (usually 50%-60%).

  • So if it costs me 50 GBP to have the blades stamped and stickered by English workers when the knives arrived 95% complete from Taiwan (which I paid 10 GBP for), then I can sell them with "made in England" stamp for 100 GBP, as the 50% of final value (50/100) is added inside England. Most sub 2KSwiss watches, Italian Colnago bicycles, or Spanish knives get marketed this way--which is dishonest to consumers. I believe only the Germans and Japanese still make many of their things in-house.

  • @Microglia1 That is very interesting indeed. I had always suspected that smaller, yet just as vital components were made elsewhere, and then shipped to one place to be made, then shipped to another to be stamped and sold as made there. The same is the case in food produce, where one country rears the animal, but it is then shipped to another for processing, but the produce takes the name of the processor. I lik the Parma ham idea - strictly regulated, enforced and certified. Burn all fakes!

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 This is why I only buy "heritage" goods & do as much research as possible to verify production origin. A black forest clock is still 100% German made; a Henry Poole dinner jacket is still 100% English made, a Grand Seiko watch is still 100% Japanese (even the crystal and screws)...to Pernet coin knives, Sorrento music box, or Peruvian vicuña/alpaca/guanaco blanket...Sadly, what matters most, such as Swedish women or Hawaiian beauties..there aren't reliable methods to verify

  • @Microglia1 Yes indeed, and afterall, we are all from 'overseas' stock anyway. The only way to find someone who would be as close as possible to their point of genetic 'origin', would be to find an East African beauty. I recommend you start your search there!

  • US made quality (esp. for tools) are so poor these days it makes me cry. The heyday stuff is 1900-1950s. Everything from the 60s/70s are decent but quality has declined. Anything made after 2003=shit! I now buy mostly Swedish/German.

  • I just wanted to comment that being from the US I can assure that everything had a higher quality standard from the 1970's or before. Especially in the Mid-west region; when an estate sale is posted its usually flooded with people looking for quality furniture to farm equipment that never breaks. A lot of high quality items are handed down from generation. check out the tools on "wranglerstar" channel. Now these items are real American made craftsmanship.

  • @cahudson11 Thank you for your input man, it's always good to get as many other people's experiences out there as possible. Good move on the double stitching - I think I may have to follow suit with that, as I sure don't want to be losing this one. And I couldn't agree more about the pre 70's stuff. I'd say over here at least, the standards for British made stuff are generally pretty high, but that is only through my experience with custom makers over here, who would hopefully be at the top.

  • @cahudson11 (cont'd) Funilly enough, that is one of the reasons I got one of these - I wanted it to last for generations to come, as a proper heirloom. I really hope the axe head holds up to the beating it's going to get over the years, and as it should. The leather though, I doubt will make it to the end of the year! We'll see though, and I'll update this is anything dramatically changes. Cheers once again for the comment - always appreciated.

  • I just got mine in the mail and it didn't have the pitted metal hole like you have. The tomahawk is lighter and sharper than expected but the leather was made cheap! My snaps for the belt carrier keep popping off. I'm not real happy with the customer service either. Luckily for me I'm close to a tent repair shop thats able to do a double stitch. As for the handle I used a "oiled linseed oil" to waterproof with several coatings. Thanks for your review..

  • great review man. I completely agree that the quality should be better for something that is american made. I love dave canterbury he is very informative, but I'm pretty sure he profits from selling these which makes his recommendation suspect

  • @mafundzalo Yeah man, it's disappointing that the quality control seems to have been on a day off when this one left the shop! Others have got ones with perfect stitching and dye jobs, so seems like a mixed bunch. I'm sure he does indeed profit, as he is selling them from his Pathfinder School. Indeed it was another Canterbury I spoke to about the manufacturing fault in the head. Then again, these are $25usd cheaper than from 2Hawks directly, so he's making a cut for his buyers it seems. Cheers

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  • @mafundzalo Very good points indeed. I generally watch the manufacturer's or even distributor's videos for a general overview of the item, and also for some of their fantastically over-the-top videos, e.g. Cold Steel. I never listen to what they have to say about them though, because, as you say, they have a vested interest in selling, and selling hard. I hadn't realised Canterbury was a teacher as well as a sales person - that is indeed not a good mix when they are combined.

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 Yeah his channel is mostly about teaching survival and bushcraft to the general public, but lately he has started doing the sales thing. He has a school that he runs - pathfinder school, where they teach you all this stuff he makes videos about. A lot of it is common sense for people like us, but it is still good stuff.

  • @mafundzalo The problem I have is that once you start selling equipment for profit it becomes hard to determine if one is talking as an educator or a salesman. Agreed completely on Lynn Tompson from CS - sensational claims in all his videos, but at least you know not to take him seriously when you watch because he is one step removed from a steak knife salesman at your door.

  • Thanks for your straight forward and enlightening review. I find this so disappointing as I was hoping to get one of the hawks as a Father's Day gift. Not only is the leatherwork shotty, but then the head has a hole in it...pitiful!!!! Stung hearing what you said about American made, but you are correct...if American made is going to be a superior product then it has to be top notch, not bottom shelf. Again, great review!!!

  • @drumgodtim Thank you drumgodtim, that is very kind of you. I must say, other's who have since received their Hawks from Pathfinder have not had the same issues as I did. One chap says his belt loop was even double stiched, no superglue, and perfectly dyed. Let's hope mine was just a one off, because as you say, China is becoming better and better with regards quality. Cheers for watching man

  • Great review! You are right that is a shame that the leather was put together like that. I wonder if you could fill that hole with JB weld? I may have to get one now.Thanks.

  • @Mr45Bullitt JB weld is a very good idea indeed, should certainly do the trick. Apparently they've upped their game on the leatherwork, which is good to hear. I may have just got a bad egg. Cheers again man

  • yeah not a fan of the cold steel ones thats for sure. my friend had one and it seems, with out the 'luster" for lack of a better term. I was thinking about throwing some wd 40 in there to clean it out, then maybe slab a small piece of JB Weld in there.....

  • @snick420 Amen to that, I think JB Welding up that hole is a very good idea indeed. I shall be doing the same at some point, but I am still toying with the idea of sending it back for replacement with a flawless head. Their customer service said that if the axe head breaks, they will replace it. Might be an idea to contact them to tell them yours has a hole in it, so that if it ever needs replacing, you've forewarned them of your issue.

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 did you contact 2Hawks directly? or did you contact Pathfinder Schools? just so i know....

  • @snick420 Pathfinder, since they sold it to me. I think they contacted 2Hawks given the number of people who are having the same issue, but contact whoever sold it to you, as that is probably your only means of getting a replacement if yours fails.

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 Ok thats where i got mine as well. Cheers!

  • Hey just to let you know. They have upgraded all the stitching on the blade sheath and belt loop. Mine is double stitched AND superglued, and the stain is complete. Looks like they may have gotten complaints! I just received mine in the mail yesterday

  • @snick420 Good to hear - I hope they do up their game with regards quality control. Can I ask whether yours has a hole in the axe head on the inside? Apparently more have them than not

  • @TheEnglishRedneck45 i see a VERY small pin sized hole on the inside towards the blade end. i can barely see it though....

  • @snick420 Just keep that bit really really well oiled - I basically fill mine with WD40 after use. If rusting starts in there, that's a bye bye to the axe head. It is a lovely bit of kit though, so much nicer in my mind than those cheaper cold steel creations which always seem to look a bit brutish and 'tactical'. Enjoy, and thank you for your comments

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