Added: 4 years ago
From: msakowski
Views: 418,681
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  • I think you have the Hopper on Backwards. (Hence The Handle)

  • @lovesomecujo,,, if you ever work over an area that was wallpapered, beware. The adhesive WILL leach through everything.White bisque SG 4x4 and the Brite White grout for example ,WILL turn yellow,it WILL also penetrate the body and guess what.You guessed it. Next step?, common sense,which is not too common.It's quicker to remove the board.

  • @zenbooter Thanks for the tip!

  • rockies

  • Comment removed

  • @gringo90100, like the Colorado Rockies? I don't think they play professional baseball. I guess they could, but it doesn't seem logical.

  • Good job

  • You might want to put the hopper together the right way. Do a ceiling this way and you will wear more mud than you will apply!

  • this shit really blows i mean blows iv done alot of it in hotels prime the walls though and get big text machine and use a spray sheild to knock down what a mess

  • Popcorn and Knockdown ceilings are the stupidest invention of all time. Easier for the drywall finishers in the beginning - sucks ass for the homeowner who has water damage or a light moved.

    Smooth walls/ceilings are easiest to patch - appearing smooth if done by a pro.

    Textured surfaces will always show a patch and eventually WILL NEED A PATCH at some point.

    Knockdown and Popcorn should have died with the 80's.

  • This Product sucks - and costs a lot of money. Popcorn and Knockdown ceilings are the stupidest invention of all time. Easier for the drywall finishers in the beginning - sucks ass for the homeowner who has water damage or a light moved.

    Laziness begets stupidity.

    Smooth ceilings are easiest to patch.

  • Only an asshole like MY RETARD WOULD LEAVE COMMENTS LIKE this but if he lived on the top floor of a building where the genius carpenters in 1967 NAILED the drywall to the roof joists, and the nails kept popping through because of constant movement of the roof over the years, HE MIGHT WANT A KNOCK DOWN FINISH so MYRETARD? You can shut the fuck up now.

  • A professional CAN match any texture.

  • humpingrannys--stick to your own work. The way you talk like I would not hire you.

  • Oh the beauty of everyone knowing the "right"way to do a job. Idea...make your own video instead of criticizing others. It's always the same in the trade business...everyone criticizes everyone else. I know the trap...trust me. Maybe...and I mean maybe...there is more than one way of doing something and achieving acceptable results. Ever thought of that?

    As for me...I use a little Porter Cable compressor at @ 20-30 psi with a cheap hopper and a 12" knife. I get top of the line results....

  • Powder compound, a 6" knife for knockdown?? Deffenitly the wrong way to do it.

    I use a 18" flexable knockdown blade and a bucket of proform compound.

    Comes out mint. Always keep your blade wet and clean also, otherwise you get lines.

    Nice try though.

  • You fuckin retards dont even paint first. Stupid stunned pricks. Idiots like you put these videos up on youtube then people watch and say...oh i can do this no problem...fuck their job up then have to pay 3x the amount to have it fixed.

    Dont do knockdown on walls either its stupid, hire a decent taper!!

  • next time you should prime the wall first you run the risk of the compound turning yellow :)

  • @marcy108 it should never turn yellow if its new construction. the only time ive had problems with my compound turning yellow is if its a remodel or something and there is a water stain or something

  • you have to put the water before the pwder

  • @amey2010 thats true! helps to prevent clumps at the bottom

  • thanks for the video

  • can you use topping joint compound for this?

  • @coloradokid1234 Perhaps you could use topping compound, but you would have to try it out. The All-Purpose is one of the slower drying compounds, so it gives you a bigger window to work. The topping compound is lighter and would probably dry faster.

  • Should use a bigger compressor.  Those small compressors are for nailer and don't recover quickly enough to produce even pressure.

    Use a real knock down tool, not a spatula.

  • Thanks for the comments. Yeah a bigger compressor would be better, but this one worked. And a better knock down tool would help, but this one worked. My friend did this job - he is pretty good at it, even with marginal tools. I am not a texture fan myself.

  • I prefer the Graco hopper for small jobs and my Spraytex 1500 for larger jobs. Both use nozzels rathre than the dial Goldblat uses. Spray in a circular pattern to ensure overlap for consistent coverage. Use a spray shield in corners. If you don't you will get elongated compound droplets - very "directional." Also, use a combination of small and large knives to knock down. I use an 18" to knock down and an 8" to clean the blade between passes, or for areas where the large knife if too wide.

  • Thanks for the helpful comments!

  • Dry time, knock down with a big knife, alot of dry mud is cut off, texture

  • why would the knockdown remove a lot of dry mud? I just did this and nothing got cut off, just "flattened" out.. there was no dry material at all much less any removed..

  • If it was flattened, then it probably did not set up enough.

    What you want to do, especially if you are new at this, is do a trial run on a large scrap piece to get the timing and technique down.

  • great vid! i have never done this before,but i now feel confident that i could pull it off.THANKS!

  • I've never done this before but I am looking for videos on how to do it... I noticed you didn't move your trough in a consistent way across the wall, using different movements the entire time. Does that give you the best results or was that just the way you figured out how to do it.

  • I just hired a guy that does tract houses to do one room for me. He used the same tool to do the knockdown that these guys are using.  What's a "knock down trial"?

  • I'm guessing the poster who wrote "knock down trial" meant "knock down trowel" -- a knife optimized for knockdowns, typically very wide (18 - 24 inches) and sometimes made of plastic (very flexible). Any drywall knife will work, though, just use a *very* light touch.

  • I hope this was their second or third time doing this and it`s not their career. Perhaps a knock down trial would be more appropriate than a 6 inch knife. The stuff dries quick and you gotta put a move on it.

  • Not a career. If it was I would be out doing jobs rather than producing DIY videos.

  • wow.. Im a Drywaller but in Australia, and i can say we do it things differently and i believe its easier.

    Great job guys looks good.

  • Thanks for your video. I just got done and a first timer. Looks great....GREATLY APPRECIATED!

  • I have a question what is the trademark of the material your use for texturize the drywall, thanks

  • This was a USG product.

  • Great vid. guys. Followed your tips and it turned out great. Like you said...very messy, but looks great in the end!

  • Thanks! This will make my project much easier.

  • Texture is getting a lot of views, keep doing what your doing!

  • I use a 16" rubber squeegee with cliped corners for the field and a sm knife for the edges have fun and get muddy !

  • I have been told that if you use the larger opening, then you can reduce the PSI to as little as 20-30 psi. And, the compound may be ready to knock down in as few as 10 min. You should always spray and knock down some texture on a sample panel, or leftover scrap of drywall first, to see what works for you.

  • Thanks, i'm a little closer to duplicating the texture at these gawdawful condos i maintain.

  • Dude,invest in a knockdown knife,that 6 inch will kill you.

  • Yeah, I guess if one were doing a whole house or for a living, getting a real knockdown knife would be a good idea.

  • @klrkevin rofl u got that rite

  • Please keep in mind that the most important thing about the knockdown texture look is that it is consistent from wall to wall and from room to room. Nothing looks worse than a poor knockdown job. The system in this video usually results in poor outcome. To do an entire house takes at least 100 gallons of texture. That hopper hold 2 gallons and you will likely not be able to mix 50 times with any consistency. A drywall spray texture rig is required. Goto PopcornRemoval dot com to learn more.

  • So true... the direct high volume feed system is superior. But for most folks here a regular Texture Gun is fine. As long as the mix and spray coverage is consistent. I like to use 5 liters of water for one 14 kg pail of CGC Premixed Drywall Compound. (Canadian... sorry don't know the US Gal/Lb. conversion.) The finished solution should have the consistency of a Milkshake.

  • OK - you are my new hero! Thanks

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