Just completed an Ar 15 build lower I have a problem with the trigger group.When I fire it and hold back the trigger no problem when I stage the trigger it fires another round.I think it's the sear but am not sure
most milspec triggers are only surface hardened...don't go deeper than .008'...TRY SOME MEDIUM DIAMOND LAPPING COMPOUND..APPLY,DRY FIRE 50 TIMES...CLEAN...APPLY SOME FINE DIAMOND LAPPING COMPOUND..DRY FIRE 50 TIMES!!! THIS WORKS...SWEET!
i have read that doing this to mil spec metle surfaces will cause them to fail in time. not sure how long but its the coating on it that you are filing away and that weakens the mettle causing it to fail. is this a problem. id like to try this on my gritty trigger. thanks good vid.
@mjmoto72 It's not a problem. Normally the metal surfaces that rub on each other in triggers are not coated. They need to be smooth and polished to preform well.
@mjmoto72 As long as you don't go crazy and remove too much metal instead of just polishing off the tool marks you'll be ok. They are usually only surface hardened though, and removing too much material can get past that hardening, so don't go overboard. Very few trigger groups are coated, and most that are have been polished and are extremely smooth before coating. Fail Zero, Spike's, LWRCi for instance have very good nickel boron coated triggers.
@mjmoto72 A lot of "mil-spec" triggers and hammers are case hardened not coated, once the outer layer, if enough is removed, you get below the hardened metal. That is what your refering to and yes if that is the case they are pron to premature wear and possible failure
You have to remove 10 to 15 thousandths of an inch to remove that, and when you are only polishing and removing tool marks, you are not removing much of anything-- it would take a lot of polishing to remove 3 thousandths.
i have read that doing this to mil spec metle surfaces will cause them to fail in time. not sure how long but its the coating on it that you are filing away and that weakens the mettle causing it to fail.
Thank you for the great informative video this one with a couple of others gave me the balls to fine tune my stock dpms trigger and hammer and then I bent the springs to decrease the pull poundage. Fuck all theses u tube police who hide behind there keyboards.Anyone can turn up the volume and hear this fine. I get so tired of these fuckheads with there bonehead comments on my channel also. keep up the great work bro and thanks.....
@mannexx111 Thanks man. I'm sure most of the people bitching on here don't even have an AR and most of them that are self proclaimed experts on how to make a video, don't even have any uploads on their channels.... Anyways, how did your trigger turn out?
you can buy a new trigger assembly now..you shouldn't sand or file anything on the trigger assembly..it can remove the hard coating and now it will wear quickly and start to bind/rust, leaving you on the field sanding and oiling just to make it fire..i like how nice and round the sharp edges are now....dangerous
@Duckhunterbow i agree. I paid 230 for a JP enterprise 3lb trigger for my ar-10. previously i had a stock dpms 308 trigger. After 200 rnds the JP enterprise is a great bench gun but its too sensitive for practical use. Red locktite will not hold its settings for timing and overcarry/. I went back to the original stock trigger but switched the springs but did my own polish job and its the best of both worlds.Reliability and accuracy.
@marktse I know what you mean. My friend has the same DPMS as me with a JP trigger and he now has problems with it not firing all the time. Guess you have to switch out the hammer spring in them after a while. I've had no trouble with my modified stock trigger group.
Lord Knows, the factory DPMS trigger group needs stoning. I don't use sand paper though. I start with a stone originally used for straight razors, yeah, it's old. 1958 if I recall. Then I move either to polish compounds and a cotton wheel on a dremel or if I want to get picky, before the dremel, move to an Arkansas stone, very hard and fine.
@flamengishta Some people need a start to finish video. If you turn up the volume this will get the job done. The process I did worked just fine for my gun.
@ccddaavviiss Don't like it? Then don't watch it... Turn up your volume and you can hear it fine. I see you have no videos of your own, so how about you make a better one for everyone to enjoy? I already addressed the sound issue in the other comments.
Great job on the lighting and detail of the process, but, wow!.....the sound quality is a real buzz kill. Your double-jointed fingers are giving me the hebe-jebbies.
@strangefire1 There is sound, its just quiet. I guess the microphone for the camera is on the bottom side and that was covered up by the tripod mount. I didn't notice until the video was done. Any questions about the detail, just ask.
You should redo this video so that we can actually hear what your saying.
DevLcL 2 days ago
Your going to make your object (trigger) concave by sanding it on that soft rubber block; best to put your sanding paper on a flat hard surface.
MrSchpankme 1 week ago
Just completed an Ar 15 build lower I have a problem with the trigger group.When I fire it and hold back the trigger no problem when I stage the trigger it fires another round.I think it's the sear but am not sure
dannyfivefifty 2 weeks ago
did you made it full automatic??
efrenbmxrider 3 weeks ago
@efrenbmxrider No, doing this just smooths out the trigger pull.
Duckhunterbow 3 weeks ago
13 people work for Geisele or Timney and don't like the truth getting out about not needing to spend 200 dollars on a trigger!
CTKix 1 month ago
most milspec triggers are only surface hardened...don't go deeper than .008'...TRY SOME MEDIUM DIAMOND LAPPING COMPOUND..APPLY,DRY FIRE 50 TIMES...CLEAN...APPLY SOME FINE DIAMOND LAPPING COMPOUND..DRY FIRE 50 TIMES!!! THIS WORKS...SWEET!
treon123456 3 months ago
i have read that doing this to mil spec metle surfaces will cause them to fail in time. not sure how long but its the coating on it that you are filing away and that weakens the mettle causing it to fail. is this a problem. id like to try this on my gritty trigger. thanks good vid.
mjmoto72 4 months ago
@mjmoto72 It's not a problem. Normally the metal surfaces that rub on each other in triggers are not coated. They need to be smooth and polished to preform well.
Duckhunterbow 4 months ago
@mjmoto72 As long as you don't go crazy and remove too much metal instead of just polishing off the tool marks you'll be ok. They are usually only surface hardened though, and removing too much material can get past that hardening, so don't go overboard. Very few trigger groups are coated, and most that are have been polished and are extremely smooth before coating. Fail Zero, Spike's, LWRCi for instance have very good nickel boron coated triggers.
Unicorn161 3 months ago
@mjmoto72 A lot of "mil-spec" triggers and hammers are case hardened not coated, once the outer layer, if enough is removed, you get below the hardened metal. That is what your refering to and yes if that is the case they are pron to premature wear and possible failure
trickykwoo2 1 month ago
@trickykwoo2
You have to remove 10 to 15 thousandths of an inch to remove that, and when you are only polishing and removing tool marks, you are not removing much of anything-- it would take a lot of polishing to remove 3 thousandths.
TexasStraightShooter 1 week ago
i have read that doing this to mil spec metle surfaces will cause them to fail in time. not sure how long but its the coating on it that you are filing away and that weakens the mettle causing it to fail.
mjmoto72 4 months ago
mimicked this video and turned my gritty 9lb pull into a buttery smooth 2.75lb!
driedjello 4 months ago
Thank you for the great informative video this one with a couple of others gave me the balls to fine tune my stock dpms trigger and hammer and then I bent the springs to decrease the pull poundage. Fuck all theses u tube police who hide behind there keyboards.Anyone can turn up the volume and hear this fine. I get so tired of these fuckheads with there bonehead comments on my channel also. keep up the great work bro and thanks.....
mannexx111 5 months ago
@mannexx111 Thanks man. I'm sure most of the people bitching on here don't even have an AR and most of them that are self proclaimed experts on how to make a video, don't even have any uploads on their channels.... Anyways, how did your trigger turn out?
Duckhunterbow 5 months ago
you can buy a new trigger assembly now..you shouldn't sand or file anything on the trigger assembly..it can remove the hard coating and now it will wear quickly and start to bind/rust, leaving you on the field sanding and oiling just to make it fire..i like how nice and round the sharp edges are now....dangerous
blowmeracing 6 months ago
@blowmeracing The trigger group is fine. All the surfaces are still flat and square. Its not going to rust. I clean all my guns regularly.
Duckhunterbow 6 months ago
@Duckhunterbow i agree. I paid 230 for a JP enterprise 3lb trigger for my ar-10. previously i had a stock dpms 308 trigger. After 200 rnds the JP enterprise is a great bench gun but its too sensitive for practical use. Red locktite will not hold its settings for timing and overcarry/. I went back to the original stock trigger but switched the springs but did my own polish job and its the best of both worlds.Reliability and accuracy.
marktse 5 months ago
@marktse I know what you mean. My friend has the same DPMS as me with a JP trigger and he now has problems with it not firing all the time. Guess you have to switch out the hammer spring in them after a while. I've had no trouble with my modified stock trigger group.
Duckhunterbow 5 months ago
Lord Knows, the factory DPMS trigger group needs stoning. I don't use sand paper though. I start with a stone originally used for straight razors, yeah, it's old. 1958 if I recall. Then I move either to polish compounds and a cotton wheel on a dremel or if I want to get picky, before the dremel, move to an Arkansas stone, very hard and fine.
TexasSheepdawg21 7 months ago
It's not the audio level that's bad it's the friggen mumbling. Also, you could have covered the important stuff in about a minute. Grrrr.
flamengishta 8 months ago
@flamengishta Some people need a start to finish video. If you turn up the volume this will get the job done. The process I did worked just fine for my gun.
Duckhunterbow 8 months ago
did you leave the microphone on the table?? Everytime you shuffle or set something on the table it totally drowns out youre girly voice.
ccddaavviiss 8 months ago
@ccddaavviiss Don't like it? Then don't watch it... Turn up your volume and you can hear it fine. I see you have no videos of your own, so how about you make a better one for everyone to enjoy? I already addressed the sound issue in the other comments.
Duckhunterbow 8 months ago
Great job on the lighting and detail of the process, but, wow!.....the sound quality is a real buzz kill. Your double-jointed fingers are giving me the hebe-jebbies.
currdog44 8 months ago
Nice video - terrible sound quality - really takes away from the entire concept.
razmiko 10 months ago
are you going to do this again with sound? thanks!
strangefire1 11 months ago
@strangefire1 There is sound, its just quiet. I guess the microphone for the camera is on the bottom side and that was covered up by the tripod mount. I didn't notice until the video was done. Any questions about the detail, just ask.
Duckhunterbow 11 months ago
Thanks for the detailed video.. only complaint is the audio, it sounds like the microphone was under the table. Good stuff bro!
Skragg101 11 months ago
@Skragg101 Thanks man. I noticed the audio was pretty quiet. I'll try and talk a little louder in the next ones.
Duckhunterbow 11 months ago