Thank you for this. I used this as an aid to replace my clutch pedal and bushings. Now that I have it all back together, there is a hiccup at the end of the pedal stroke - the end being at the release of the pedal stroke. The pedal travel at the end is not smooth like it was. Now it pops back at the very end. I just took it apart thinking it may be the input shaft/rod on the master cylinder as there appears to be play from the rod to the plastic eye bolt hole which the rod connects to. Thoughts?
props for this video, awesome that you took the time to do this. I just did this and wanted to throw in my two cents. My bushing were worn, but the clutch pedal itself was way out of round where the master cylinder pin attaches. Feel is way better but a new pedal will prob take care of the rest of the side-to-side play
Watched this about 8 times today. Not sure if I could have finished the job without it.
Thank you very much for taking time out of your day to make things like this possible for others. I can't tell you how many times I've taken your advice on M3forum or used one of your DIYs. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
E36 Manufactured PRIOR to 3/97 will have a different spring setup what WILL pop out as soon as the mast. cylinder is un pinned. so when reassembly, clutch pedal into the pivot first, put the spring inplace with this tiny metal bracket, compress by hand, then stick the pin through where the master cylinder arm is. Hope this addition helps!
Sorry, but I need help with one more step and then after that I think im smooth sailing... I'm having trouble putting the clutch spring back into place. I'm trying to find where the clutch spring needs to rest on, which is somewhere on the bracket which holds the brake switch. There are two areas that looks like the pin could be held into place but i've had a hard time fitting it in. I hope this is clear...
No problem. If I remember correctly, it's the little divot in the rear, as opposed to the one in the front. It'll probably help you if you take the pin out of the spring and rest it in the divots in the bracket. It'll fit like a glove into the smaller one, which I believe it towards the back.
That got it! Its actually in the front (at least on mine), but its most definatley the smallest divot. Many thanks again for being so helpful and taking time out of your day to post useful DIY's like this one.
I appreciate the video man, but theres 1 area im having problems with... near the 2:50 mark, where you say you need to pop "the circle that connects the master cylinder plunjer to the clutch pedal itself out". How did you manage to pop urs out? ive tried everything but it seems to be stuck in there even though its greased up pretty good.
If we're calling driver's side the "left", there's a circlip on the left side of the retaining pin for the master cylinder plunger. Remove the circlip, and slide the retaining pin out to the right. The plunger will be freed up and the pedal will move WAY back, giving you plenty of room to get at the pivot bushings.
always enjoy your M3-related tutorials man, will definitely be keeping them in mind if and when I end up buying one for myself.
by the way, when you mentioned the pedal feeling "sloppy"- was most of the "give" in the up-and-down direction before you replaced the bushing? I'd hate to run into shifting/clutch problems down the line, was just curious if that's something common to most late-90's/early-00's M3's or if it's more a matter of how the previous owner drove the car.
Thanks man. The pedal just has some side to side slop that annoys me. A lot of E36's have it. You can usually sort out poor pedal feel by replacing these bushings, bleeding the system, and removing the clutch delay valve (CDV) from the line. The clutch and flywheel are pretty robust.
Side to side slop would be indicative of worn pivot bushings. But, as mentioned near the end of the video, the plastic itself can get worn over time as well.
Thank you for this. I used this as an aid to replace my clutch pedal and bushings. Now that I have it all back together, there is a hiccup at the end of the pedal stroke - the end being at the release of the pedal stroke. The pedal travel at the end is not smooth like it was. Now it pops back at the very end. I just took it apart thinking it may be the input shaft/rod on the master cylinder as there appears to be play from the rod to the plastic eye bolt hole which the rod connects to. Thoughts?
scoobyej20 3 weeks ago
thanks for the help. clutch delay valve?
mchuffman 8 months ago
Thanks Bro - plan on buying UUC bushings and a new pedal and will come back for your awesome vid
bmwgary 8 months ago
Thanks dude!
drainfreaksdotnet 9 months ago
Thanks a bunch, man. Did this over the weekend on my '99 M3 and this video helped a lot. Clutch feels much better now.
rdgm3 1 year ago
props for this video, awesome that you took the time to do this. I just did this and wanted to throw in my two cents. My bushing were worn, but the clutch pedal itself was way out of round where the master cylinder pin attaches. Feel is way better but a new pedal will prob take care of the rest of the side-to-side play
c243mx7tr 1 year ago
Watched this about 8 times today. Not sure if I could have finished the job without it.
Thank you very much for taking time out of your day to make things like this possible for others. I can't tell you how many times I've taken your advice on M3forum or used one of your DIYs. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
GANGstar745 2 years ago
Thanks for the video! This is a lifesaver I will try it today. it's synenergy52 from m3forum
iimprezu 2 years ago
E36 Manufactured PRIOR to 3/97 will have a different spring setup what WILL pop out as soon as the mast. cylinder is un pinned. so when reassembly, clutch pedal into the pivot first, put the spring inplace with this tiny metal bracket, compress by hand, then stick the pin through where the master cylinder arm is. Hope this addition helps!
j5687 2 years ago
Sorry, but I need help with one more step and then after that I think im smooth sailing... I'm having trouble putting the clutch spring back into place. I'm trying to find where the clutch spring needs to rest on, which is somewhere on the bracket which holds the brake switch. There are two areas that looks like the pin could be held into place but i've had a hard time fitting it in. I hope this is clear...
nsmitty8055 2 years ago
No problem. If I remember correctly, it's the little divot in the rear, as opposed to the one in the front. It'll probably help you if you take the pin out of the spring and rest it in the divots in the bracket. It'll fit like a glove into the smaller one, which I believe it towards the back.
Hope that helps.
fiveightandten 2 years ago
That got it! Its actually in the front (at least on mine), but its most definatley the smallest divot. Many thanks again for being so helpful and taking time out of your day to post useful DIY's like this one.
nsmitty8055 2 years ago
I appreciate the video man, but theres 1 area im having problems with... near the 2:50 mark, where you say you need to pop "the circle that connects the master cylinder plunjer to the clutch pedal itself out". How did you manage to pop urs out? ive tried everything but it seems to be stuck in there even though its greased up pretty good.
nsmitty8055 2 years ago
If we're calling driver's side the "left", there's a circlip on the left side of the retaining pin for the master cylinder plunger. Remove the circlip, and slide the retaining pin out to the right. The plunger will be freed up and the pedal will move WAY back, giving you plenty of room to get at the pivot bushings.
fiveightandten 2 years ago
Ah yes, that got it. I was pushing it the wrong way (from right to left rather than left to right). Thanks again, this video has been a big help.
nsmitty8055 2 years ago
always enjoy your M3-related tutorials man, will definitely be keeping them in mind if and when I end up buying one for myself.
by the way, when you mentioned the pedal feeling "sloppy"- was most of the "give" in the up-and-down direction before you replaced the bushing? I'd hate to run into shifting/clutch problems down the line, was just curious if that's something common to most late-90's/early-00's M3's or if it's more a matter of how the previous owner drove the car.
callmejosiah 2 years ago
Thanks man. The pedal just has some side to side slop that annoys me. A lot of E36's have it. You can usually sort out poor pedal feel by replacing these bushings, bleeding the system, and removing the clutch delay valve (CDV) from the line. The clutch and flywheel are pretty robust.
fiveightandten 2 years ago
How would one know if the pedal bushings need replacing? Nice videos, keep them up.
flyboy333 2 years ago
Side to side slop would be indicative of worn pivot bushings. But, as mentioned near the end of the video, the plastic itself can get worn over time as well.
fiveightandten 2 years ago