If I bought one of your anvils and hit it with an angle grinder could I end up with a round bick all polished up and every thing.Rather than a cast copy of an old worn out bick.What i want to know is will I find air pockets and weaken the bick.The shape of american bicks is why you find concave difficult to work.
you have to make your anvil not ring, the ringing is wasted energy. i have 2 london pattern anvils, a cast iron+ steel unbranded anvil and a few other anvil surfaces. most anvils do ring if not installed properly. Its the rebound you have to worry about. a good rebound means no or little wasted energy. all you have to do is secure your anvil properly on a good solid base. level and with the entire bottom surface in contact with the base.
you clearly havnt had the honor of forging on the old patented Fisher and Norris Eagle Anvil and Anchor works Anvil. It has no ring, cast iron body, cast steel face. Fisher and Norris is no longer in business, closed shop in the 1970's
You clearly haven't had the honor of forging on (a) Kohlswa(s) or a London type anvil I own or of a Peddinghaus which I sadly don't possess yet, they ring and they move metal easily, also Peddinghaus anvils and Kohlswas are rated one of the best anvils there are. look it up, buddy
I never sad anything bad about those forged anvils, hell I have forged on them before. Cast Anvils using the patented Fisher and Norris technique not only rebound the hammer fully like a forged one, but do not ring because of the method of their construction. I have a feeling these boys are working off the old patent. I own a stone weight 112lb Fisher casted in 1847, it hasn't settled one millimeter to my eye and is a square and plum as the day if came out of the foundry.
Ringing isn't that important is the issue depends on the make, My Peter Wright forged in 1851 at 400lbs rings like a son of a bitch, but the fisher doesn't, and they both work just fine, in fact I dare say the Casted Fisher wears a lot better and doesn't settle.
I just mailed you an ABANA link explaining the history and the quality of the Fisher Anvil, also look in the book "Anvils of America" you will find even more.
As a note and not meaning to offend anyone, there is allot going on with austempered ductile iron that produces a metal in the end that is just as tough and hard as more costly steels. I have a TFS Smithy Special 400 lb anvil, it is made with an ADI and HRC test is about 56, it has excellent rebound. The one thing I think is causing allot of controversy is that the exact makeup of these ADI's is the secret. I can tell you this much these anvils are not straight out 80-55-06 ductile iron.
How do I find the brand name on my anvil?
thudson99 1 week ago
where are these made?
blacksmither1 9 months ago
If I bought one of your anvils and hit it with an angle grinder could I end up with a round bick all polished up and every thing.Rather than a cast copy of an old worn out bick.What i want to know is will I find air pockets and weaken the bick.The shape of american bicks is why you find concave difficult to work.
TheUanwat 10 months ago
Love my 163# English-made Hill Anvil
prokopto 1 year ago
you have to make your anvil not ring, the ringing is wasted energy. i have 2 london pattern anvils, a cast iron+ steel unbranded anvil and a few other anvil surfaces. most anvils do ring if not installed properly. Its the rebound you have to worry about. a good rebound means no or little wasted energy. all you have to do is secure your anvil properly on a good solid base. level and with the entire bottom surface in contact with the base.
aobbuddy 1 year ago
Why not listen to the ring? one of the rules was: if it doesn't ring it isnt good.
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago
you clearly havnt had the honor of forging on the old patented Fisher and Norris Eagle Anvil and Anchor works Anvil. It has no ring, cast iron body, cast steel face. Fisher and Norris is no longer in business, closed shop in the 1970's
northforge 2 years ago
You clearly haven't had the honor of forging on (a) Kohlswa(s) or a London type anvil I own or of a Peddinghaus which I sadly don't possess yet, they ring and they move metal easily, also Peddinghaus anvils and Kohlswas are rated one of the best anvils there are. look it up, buddy
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago
I never sad anything bad about those forged anvils, hell I have forged on them before. Cast Anvils using the patented Fisher and Norris technique not only rebound the hammer fully like a forged one, but do not ring because of the method of their construction. I have a feeling these boys are working off the old patent. I own a stone weight 112lb Fisher casted in 1847, it hasn't settled one millimeter to my eye and is a square and plum as the day if came out of the foundry.
northforge 2 years ago
Neither did I about your anvils. So, what is your point....
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago
Ringing isn't that important is the issue depends on the make, My Peter Wright forged in 1851 at 400lbs rings like a son of a bitch, but the fisher doesn't, and they both work just fine, in fact I dare say the Casted Fisher wears a lot better and doesn't settle.
northforge 2 years ago
Well, fine if it ain't important to you it is to me and to many other people, and I dare to say Peddinghaus and Kohlswas are better
TechnicusJoe 2 years ago
I just mailed you an ABANA link explaining the history and the quality of the Fisher Anvil, also look in the book "Anvils of America" you will find even more.
northforge 2 years ago
As a note and not meaning to offend anyone, there is allot going on with austempered ductile iron that produces a metal in the end that is just as tough and hard as more costly steels. I have a TFS Smithy Special 400 lb anvil, it is made with an ADI and HRC test is about 56, it has excellent rebound. The one thing I think is causing allot of controversy is that the exact makeup of these ADI's is the secret. I can tell you this much these anvils are not straight out 80-55-06 ductile iron.
graywoodforge 2 years ago