Added: 3 years ago
From: refinedhardwood
Views: 59,981
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  • Did you use a sanding screen on the buffer or just a pad?

  • @ssackson We used a 150 grit sanding screen under the pad.

  • @ssackson We used a sanding screen under the driver pad.

  • great video and lots of good advise..

    i am about to take all the carpet up out of house and know there is hardwood under there..any advise on that ?? would appreciate your input..

    many thanks..

  • @COTTONDOG920 It really depends. If the floor has been covered with carpet for a while it is most likely that a re-coat will not adhere due to cross contamination from carpet cleaners, pet stains, ect. We typically recommend that a floor that has carpeting removed be refinished. Thanks for watching!

  • Wait what does it do though?

  • @miketysone Re-coating is a process to "freshen" up the top coat on a hardwood floor. It will fill and cover minor surface scratches and give you a more consistent sheen.

  • @refinedhardwood Oh okay well I got a house will cherry floor and it has some scratches so if I buy one of these will it help to clean out the scratches?

  • again more fabulous work... wish more people knew about you!!! hire me as your spokesman :)

  • AWESOME I wondered if this could be done simple like this thanks for the vid buying a new OLD home and not a lot of time to do some sprucing up before moving in so just a quik fix will do.

  • I know what you mean... An old house is a constant work in progress... Before trying to re-coat the floor make sure you check the current finish that is on the floor to be sure that it will be compatible with the new finish you are re-coating with... Otherwise, you might have a mess on your hands... Thanks for watching and good luck with your new "old" house!

  • What colour pad is on the rotary machine ?, floor looks great by the way, hope i can achieve this result, thanks.

  • We used a 3/4" white polishing pad on this one. Thanks for watching and good luck to you with your projects.

  • Thank you.

  • You are certainly welcome.

  • is that paint roller or special?

  • It is the same size as a painter's roller, 9", however, it is a special roller nap designed for smooth varnish finishes. Thanks for watching!

  • Thank you for sharing.

    I'm a brand new landlord living in one half of a duplex. My tenants just moved out and I need to turnover the apartment quickly and cheaply. Down the line, I definitely plan to refinish the floor, but for now, this looks like the perfect solution to get me through a couple more years of tenant occupation.

    I also like your choice of music. :)

  • This is a perfect option for rental property assuming that the floor can be re-coated. A re-coat should get you through for 2 or 3 more years.

    Thanks for watching!

  • OK this may sound a little dumb, but this is comming from an unexperienced first time homeowner.

    Basically all you're doing is sanding it down with a drum and the polyurethaning??? Im not sure if that is in fact what was going on. Also what type of polyurethane and brand did you use, and why?

  • You have to make sure that there is no wax contamination on your floor first. Drop a few drops of water on the floor and if it bubbles up, you have wax or some other contamination. If no bubbles, you can screen with a rotary buffing screen to etch the floor and roll on a coat oil modified finish. We use a professional brand but you can get a decent floor finish from Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck with your new home and thanks for watching!

  • Hi, is 'coat oil modified finish' the same as polyurethane ?? or is it an alternative ? Also, is there a special way to apply polyurethane coats? any tips ? :)

  • Oil Modified Finish is today's polyurethane. Water based finished are not polyurethane; They are simply finishes. Poly can be applied using a lamdswool applicator, a 3/16" smotth roller nap for varnishes or a "T" bar applicator. We use all three techniques depending on the client's desired effect. "T" bar for thin smoothest coats, Roller for intermediate thickness yet smooth and lambswool for thicker coats with a bit of a hand scraped affect. Hope this helps and thanks so much for watching!

  • This floor won't looked too good once that dresser is moved....

  • You are correct. However, at this homeowner's request we coated around this piece of furniture as the piece is bolted to the floor. Rather than unbolt the piece and replace the floor boards where the bolts went through, they decided on a cheaper option for now. Once the homeowner decides to remove the closet from the room, the floor will be refinished. This recoat is simply to get them through a couple more years.

  • @refinedhardwood My upstairs floors are full of those "squeak no more" breakaway screws. They're finally quiet, but any attempt to sand them all the way down would be a disaster. Is there any reason why they can't just be touched up as needed and re-coated whenever the touch-ups start looking a little too obvious, with just enough sanding to keep the finish from building up? I don't use any slimy waxes or oil soap.

  • @lrd9999 Yes you can touch them up... Tape the boards off with the repairs and lightly sand those boards with a piece of steel wool. Brush your finish on just those boards and you should be good to go. Thanks for watching!!

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