Added: 5 years ago
From: AsktheBuilder
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  • thanks for your help ! Granted this was my first time installing crown molding , and trust me , profanity was being used....... after all was installed and caulked, it really looked nice and i was proud ! ...... my biggest advice to people trying this, is to stay calm and figure it out ! the whole upside down and backwards concept IS how its done, and you will say as i said " there has to be an easier way to cut crown molding " lol.... good luck !

  • Are these tools usually rent-able at the local home depot or lowes?

  • Thank you for the helpful videos!

  • Just divide 130 Degree corner by 2 and you have 65 degrees each peice. Most outside corners are 90 degrees so it would be a very sharp corner at 130 degrees.

  • How do you cut outside corners that are not square? I have several 130 degree corners in my house. It is driving me crazy!!

  • Easy...... Go watch my Fancy Crown Molding Corners video and read that same column at my AsktheBuilder web site.

  • if they are inside corners try coping moldings and if that doesn't work then put the molding against the ceiling and trace the height and projection with a pencil on both sides of the corner making sure wall lines align and then mark the molding where it will meet and find your angle on the saw...hope this helps

  • How about compound angles, like gables? We spent all day and did not successfully make a single joint.

  • You have the keyword in your question! The angle in a gable end is NOT a compound cut. The crown is not going around a corner. Both pieces running up the gable are in the same plane. Think about how easy that cut is....... Think door or window casing.

  • that was actually a good idea!

  • Thank you. Does an old school powerless miter box work well? If so how do you prevent the molding from sliding outward as you cut the angle(creating like a 43 or 47 deg. miter cut)? Thank you very much.

  • By tacking a small strip of wood to the table that holds the molding in position

  • muy bueno .yo las ago en material y yeso

  • Yo hablo espanol.

  • good for the test pcs, always pays to be certain. Usually putting up crown stained is easier and forgiving compared to painted, and white is a bitch. TG. for caulking, whiting

    etc, and at the very least touch up the ends of your mitres with something. better than seeing a thin "white" line at inside and outside joins.

  • You're the man! I've used a few of your videos without fail! Keep up the good work!

  • Hi Tim,

    Your advice is excellent and I am buying your DVD tomorrow. I can't imagine trying to do this without your knowledge and tips. Thanks alot!

  • Thank You!

  • Thanks for the Video. I have watched it 4 times and I still cant get it right!!!

    I was wondering if you could come to my home to film a new video ?? I have plenty of Crown, including several that I precut backwards so you can show everyone what NOT to do!!!!

  • You need my Crown Molding Ebook!!!!!

  • Nice video, but I think it would have helpful to show more of the actual saw cutting the molding. Are you angeling the table, or are you angeling the blade?

  • Thanks! You should watch my other Crown Molding videos. They show you exactly what is happening at the saw.

  • Thank you! Your "how-to" videos on cutting Crown Molding were so helpful!! We are remodeling our home and wanted to add the molding but didn't really know how to get those "cuts" just right. Thanks to your videos on this subject, my boyfriend is happily "cutting" away and making great progress!! Consider us "fans"!!

  • Nice Tim and Thanks for posting the helpful hints.(we're watching) But... when would the coping saw method work the best and why do so many people do it that way instead... I think this way is easier also..?

  • I can't tell you as the miter method I use produces tight joints in less time. To produce an accurate coping-cut line, you have to cut it the way I show. So why cope if you already have the perfect fit?

  • You have an informative series I will admit.Yeah I should do the same only I end up using so many different profiles. I was referring to the way in which you cut the crown itself on the miter saw. I use a 12" dual slide compound miter saw (Makita). I always lay my crown flat on the table of the saw itself. I I am a Florida licensed General Contractor specializing in commercial work. By trade I am a finish carpenter though.

  • Why not just cut your test pieces to determine your angle and bevel? I always cut my crown upside down on my saw and set my angle and bevel based on what I am using. I install a lot of larger profiles so its the only way I know. The larger profiles simply wont sit on the fence properly.

  • Thanks for the comment! That is what I do....., the test pieces that is. Test pieces are demonstrated in a few of my other videos. I have several buckets full of test pieces in all different sizes/profiles/angles.

  • btw, test pieces are good for detecting ceiling irregularities. and in drywall houses less sanding is don on the top ot the corner bead...so it's good advice...

  • i have to agree with mycijor, because in stain grade work the reveal from a coped joint is always wood. on a miter cut the is nothing only air. it's easy to spot if it seperats the slightest.but i have to admit i often times miter, but my saw is perfect,and i use a good protractor. but if you got the time coping is best.

  • Perhaps I should have said... Shrinkage is LESS of a factor in a coped joint. Have you gone back to your jobs five years later and checked for gaps? I am just saying a coped joint will be less likely to have a gap. No matter how tight you spring in a mitered corner it will not close a gap if the angle is off of 90 degrees. If you are an amateur then go ahead and miter but if you make a living doing fine work then you better cope.

  • One thing I learned long ago in my building career, and now this Internet career, is to A/B test. I have tested both methods. I used to cope. Coping takes longer to do. My system produces identical finished results as coping. I have gone back and looked at jobs that are 15+ years old. All are perfect. Your most recent comment speaks volumes about your arrogance and closed-minded approach to solving problems. We'll let the Court of Public Opinion judge who is the pro and who is the amateur here.

  • A coped joint will always be tighter because the sharp edge of the cope will dig into the other piece. A coped joint can be cut tight and sprung in for a super tight fit. Because inside corners and outside corners are usually not square then there will always be a gap in the joint if it is only 1/4 of a degree off of 90 degrees. That is unacceptable for stain grade work. For tight joints, you absolutely must cope. Shrinkage is not a factor in a coped joint.

  • The scientists at the Forest Products lab will disagree with the last part of your statement as will I. :-) Shrinkage is always a problem. As for spring-fitting long pieces of crown, you can do the exact same thing with mitered cuts. Why do you think there are no gaps in the many rooms I have done? Please note I am not against coping. There is more than one way to skin a cat....and do crown with perfect corners. :-)

  • Inside corners should be coped. An uncoped inside corner will eventually move and open a gap. The great majority of fine finish carpenters including myself will cope the inside corners.

  • I have to respectfully and regrettably disagree. I can take you to no less than 30 houses where I have installed crown without coping. No open joints. Why? You may be installing crown in new houses where the lumber shrinkage has not reached its peak. Or you were installing crown that had not acclimated to the interior humidity/temps of the house. A coped joint will also open up in those circumstances.

  • Good idea, to cut the test pieces..

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