@marek0086 <---- now that what i call a hater/troll. Stop tryin to call him out on some stupid shit. In pretty sure he could school your ass. If ya wanna sound smart go preach to some newbs. Atleast then you wont soun like a complete jackass. Enjoy the awesome videos jafro puts on here and stop being a troll...an most of all a bitch....stick to the honda videos. Thank you for spittin out your magazine facts fag!!
I have a question. How big is the turbo in the video? Size? I am planing a new turbo for Renaul 5 GT car. It has a Garett T2 turbo on it. What size of "cheap china Ebay" turbine will be close to T2 size turbine?
@jafromobile awesome vid i just ported and polished my turbo because of this, It came ut geat. How is your ebay turbo holding up still? a lot of people call them garbage and i cant see them being that bad
r u guys serious.... more exhaust thru wastegate = LESS boost... u will NOT gain performance from letting exhaust OUT of the turbo thru the waste gate. are u all that dumb?????? at higher boost a smaller wastegate is required. total power must be taken into account aswell, but that turbo isnt gonna do a damn thing to make more power. more info, check on skylines australia. c om
@JCaSs1001 This video was done to prevent BOOST CREEP, not more boost. I don't know where you get the idea that I'm trying to make more boost with it? I had a big16g prior to this that crept to 30 PSI with a 30mm port. This is a street-driven car. Had you watched the other hundred videos, you'd have understood the context of why I'm doing this.
I've never said this to anyone on my channel, but based on your comment, I don't want you to watch the rest of my videos.
@Jafromobile, im sorry, no where did i hear you say that. infact in your description it says "If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car", and at 1:45 you say "this is why alot of people, probably complain about the PERFORMANCE of these chinese turbos. looks to me like the exhaust side isnt going to flow well enough." sorry i miss understood.
@JCaSs1001 Honestly, I wasn't expecting this. You were under no obligation to post it. Thank you because it speaks well of you.
Indeed, context is important. Your comment helped me realize (a day late) I made an error in excluding my big16g's experience from this video. I didn't explain the boost creep thing or what boost creep is all about. Given that, I see how easily it can be misinterpreted. I will update the info section. This exchange actually helped to improve this video, thanks!
@Jafromobile, no problem. im sorry if i came across rude as i assumed u were trying to tell people something that wasnt true and it wasnt a miss comunication, as it turned out. this is a very helpful video, im sure this and alot more of ur vids give info which will be greatly appreciated. :-)
@marek0086 Correct. I don't ever do this on intake parts because of this. But I always do it on exhaust stuff I port because high spots and deep scratches create heat spots that later turn into crack-and-leak spots. It happens a lot faster on forced induction engines than NA stuff, but when I polish runners of any part, it's not for performance reasons. :)
@marek0086 it's barely touched up with a 180 grit flap wheel. It took less time than anything else I did in this video.
To me, a high gloss ends with 600 grit, and some considerable time with flannel wheels, felt bobs and polishing compounds. All I did was take out the marks from the carbide bit. Steel shines brightly when it's sanded with any grit of sandpaper.
@JCaSs1001 Just to point out a few things, what you are seeing in this video DOES in fact increase horsepower, and frankly I am surprised that you don't even see that. More boost doesn't necessarily equate to more horse power, as 15-psi w/50 degree air temps will make more usable power than 20-psi w/150 degree air temps, because the air is more dense. Too small of a wastegate raises EGT's, in turn increasing the temperature of the turbo itself, causing the compressor side to run much hotter...
@StreetLethalRacing id be more worried about raising back pressure than EGT's. EGT's dont cause decrease in power like intake temps do from what i know. ther more used for tuning, instead of AFR's, esp in higher power drag cars (sub10's). and also as exhaust temp increases it does flow quicker even tho it increases in volume, which is 1 reason to wrap exhaust and turbo apart from preventing heat soak.
One thing should be noted- the higher the boost level you're running, the less exhaust will be wastegated....so the larger wastegate hole will be more desirable for lower boost levels that higher boost levels. At higher boost levels you'll want more air to pass through the turbine housing than exit through the wastegate, and a larger wastegate hole will make it more difficult for the actuator to hold the flapper shut.
@jusmx141 Porting this one the same size as my Big16g left me with the same boost level... actually slightly less...
I'm in the process of playing with the adjustable wastegate trying to find the right creep-spot and change up the game a little. This one's got nearly 2" of adjustment on it and I'll be honkin' it down before the next romp. I'll most definitely post the results. Thanks for confirming what I've been suspecting. Internal gates are trickier to tweak. Great comment.
@Jafromobile At some point you're going to reach the threshold of what the internal actuator can hold no matter how much you tighten the arm- the result of this will be a boost spike followed by a sharp drop. The only cure is a stronger actuator, like the one I built in the DSMTuners thread titled "Looking for a strong internal wastegate actuator". The stronger spring will hold the flapper closed better and pull the flapper shut during operation, preventing the boost drop as the RPMs climb.
Jafro, I'm having a hard time porting my wastegate port on my 16g with the bit that I have. I know the turbine housing is cast iron, but the label says that it's made to grind/shape steel. What would you describe your bit as? Can I get it from harbor freight?
@ranacherian lol.... you were the one who asked me before, weren't you? I walked out to my garage when asked and was astonished to find the blank label. Look up the Milwaukee 5192. Mine's been discontinued for a decade, but that looks like the modern equivalent.
Good video. I just got a 16G in the mail from a guy on a webforum. he wants me to take a look at it and rebuild it but I can already tell that it may be be salvagable. It's locked and the turbine wheel along with the compressor wheel have rubbed the housings. More than likely the ringlands for the thrust bearing and turbine oil seal are going to be shot - turbine shafts don't rub unless they're out of balance over overboosted. This thing looks new but has signs on eBay all over it.
@Jafromobile - Good demonstration. One thing to remember about porting the inside of the scroll/tongue is to make sure that you never port evenly on the flapper/wastegate side of the the inside of the scroll. Never make the upper and lower parallel with each other. You always want to port the upper edge (looking down the scroll) a mm or so more than the lower so you leave a step on the lower inside edge. This way the exhaust gas has a lip that it hits and directs it out of the wategate.
@ProjectCarTV If the upper and lower are parallel with each other, you'll more than likely have issues maintaining consistant boost as you'll have issues with boost creep/spike. The problem is that keeping the upper and lower parallel allows the exhaust gas to continue down the scroll rather than being directed out of the wastegate hole when the flapper opens. It doesn't have to be much - only a mm or so - size of a clipped thumbnail. Just make sure you port the upper inside edge slightly.
good job jafro keep it up bro. would it have been easier to see your surface contact usen machinist's dye ? did you just pollish the trasition or are you porting that as well?
@marek0086 <---- now that what i call a hater/troll. Stop tryin to call him out on some stupid shit. In pretty sure he could school your ass. If ya wanna sound smart go preach to some newbs. Atleast then you wont soun like a complete jackass. Enjoy the awesome videos jafro puts on here and stop being a troll...an most of all a bitch....stick to the honda videos. Thank you for spittin out your magazine facts fag!!
BomalleyGST 1 month ago
I have a question. How big is the turbo in the video? Size? I am planing a new turbo for Renaul 5 GT car. It has a Garett T2 turbo on it. What size of "cheap china Ebay" turbine will be close to T2 size turbine?
Thanks.
Great wideo by the way :)
prillall 1 month ago
@jafromobile awesome vid i just ported and polished my turbo because of this, It came ut geat. How is your ebay turbo holding up still? a lot of people call them garbage and i cant see them being that bad
shutupnshift04 1 month ago
the holes to tight (THUMBS UP IF U GET IT) :P
SuperGodzill 3 months ago
now is an American made **== USA
elrolloffman 4 months ago
r u guys serious.... more exhaust thru wastegate = LESS boost... u will NOT gain performance from letting exhaust OUT of the turbo thru the waste gate. are u all that dumb?????? at higher boost a smaller wastegate is required. total power must be taken into account aswell, but that turbo isnt gonna do a damn thing to make more power. more info, check on skylines australia. c om
JCaSs1001 4 months ago
@JCaSs1001 This video was done to prevent BOOST CREEP, not more boost. I don't know where you get the idea that I'm trying to make more boost with it? I had a big16g prior to this that crept to 30 PSI with a 30mm port. This is a street-driven car. Had you watched the other hundred videos, you'd have understood the context of why I'm doing this.
I've never said this to anyone on my channel, but based on your comment, I don't want you to watch the rest of my videos.
Jafromobile 4 months ago 7
@Jafromobile, im sorry, no where did i hear you say that. infact in your description it says "If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car", and at 1:45 you say "this is why alot of people, probably complain about the PERFORMANCE of these chinese turbos. looks to me like the exhaust side isnt going to flow well enough." sorry i miss understood.
JCaSs1001 4 months ago
@JCaSs1001 Honestly, I wasn't expecting this. You were under no obligation to post it. Thank you because it speaks well of you.
Indeed, context is important. Your comment helped me realize (a day late) I made an error in excluding my big16g's experience from this video. I didn't explain the boost creep thing or what boost creep is all about. Given that, I see how easily it can be misinterpreted. I will update the info section. This exchange actually helped to improve this video, thanks!
Jafromobile 4 months ago
@Jafromobile, no problem. im sorry if i came across rude as i assumed u were trying to tell people something that wasnt true and it wasnt a miss comunication, as it turned out. this is a very helpful video, im sure this and alot more of ur vids give info which will be greatly appreciated. :-)
JCaSs1001 4 months ago
@Jafromobile~ POLISHING it doesnt give u any gain in performance!
marek0086 1 month ago
@marek0086 Correct. I don't ever do this on intake parts because of this. But I always do it on exhaust stuff I port because high spots and deep scratches create heat spots that later turn into crack-and-leak spots. It happens a lot faster on forced induction engines than NA stuff, but when I polish runners of any part, it's not for performance reasons. :)
Jafromobile 1 month ago
@Jafromobile~ Dude u dont have to polish it to such a high gloss!.
marek0086 1 month ago
@marek0086 it's barely touched up with a 180 grit flap wheel. It took less time than anything else I did in this video.
To me, a high gloss ends with 600 grit, and some considerable time with flannel wheels, felt bobs and polishing compounds. All I did was take out the marks from the carbide bit. Steel shines brightly when it's sanded with any grit of sandpaper.
Jafromobile 1 month ago
@Jafromobile~ but by removing that much metal from the housing, arent u making it weaker in that spot, thus more prone to warpage?
marek0086 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Jafromobile~ but by removing that much metal from the housing, arent u making it weaker in that spot, thus more prone to warpage?
marek0086 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Jafromobile~ but by removing that much metal from the housing, arent u making it weaker in that spot, thus more prone to warpage?
marek0086 1 month ago
@JCaSs1001 Just to point out a few things, what you are seeing in this video DOES in fact increase horsepower, and frankly I am surprised that you don't even see that. More boost doesn't necessarily equate to more horse power, as 15-psi w/50 degree air temps will make more usable power than 20-psi w/150 degree air temps, because the air is more dense. Too small of a wastegate raises EGT's, in turn increasing the temperature of the turbo itself, causing the compressor side to run much hotter...
StreetLethalRacing 2 months ago
@StreetLethalRacing id be more worried about raising back pressure than EGT's. EGT's dont cause decrease in power like intake temps do from what i know. ther more used for tuning, instead of AFR's, esp in higher power drag cars (sub10's). and also as exhaust temp increases it does flow quicker even tho it increases in volume, which is 1 reason to wrap exhaust and turbo apart from preventing heat soak.
JCaSs1001 1 month ago
i bet the compressor maps are horrible on those Chinese turbos...
Thomas0zero 4 months ago
One thing should be noted- the higher the boost level you're running, the less exhaust will be wastegated....so the larger wastegate hole will be more desirable for lower boost levels that higher boost levels. At higher boost levels you'll want more air to pass through the turbine housing than exit through the wastegate, and a larger wastegate hole will make it more difficult for the actuator to hold the flapper shut.
jusmx141 7 months ago
@jusmx141 Porting this one the same size as my Big16g left me with the same boost level... actually slightly less...
I'm in the process of playing with the adjustable wastegate trying to find the right creep-spot and change up the game a little. This one's got nearly 2" of adjustment on it and I'll be honkin' it down before the next romp. I'll most definitely post the results. Thanks for confirming what I've been suspecting. Internal gates are trickier to tweak. Great comment.
Jafromobile 7 months ago
@Jafromobile At some point you're going to reach the threshold of what the internal actuator can hold no matter how much you tighten the arm- the result of this will be a boost spike followed by a sharp drop. The only cure is a stronger actuator, like the one I built in the DSMTuners thread titled "Looking for a strong internal wastegate actuator". The stronger spring will hold the flapper closed better and pull the flapper shut during operation, preventing the boost drop as the RPMs climb.
jusmx141 7 months ago
Awesome job! I enjoy your videos man. Keep'em coming.
AGearHead4Life 8 months ago
Jafro, I'm having a hard time porting my wastegate port on my 16g with the bit that I have. I know the turbine housing is cast iron, but the label says that it's made to grind/shape steel. What would you describe your bit as? Can I get it from harbor freight?
jsanchez430 9 months ago
man, i wish the model number was there.,.,.
ranacherian 9 months ago
@ranacherian lol.... you were the one who asked me before, weren't you? I walked out to my garage when asked and was astonished to find the blank label. Look up the Milwaukee 5192. Mine's been discontinued for a decade, but that looks like the modern equivalent.
Jafromobile 9 months ago
@Jafromobile yes sir, it was me.,.,.it look like Milwaukee 5192 is the one. thanks man :)
ranacherian 9 months ago
The factory tiny holes create heat retention zone
i think they often crack because of this.
michaelovitch 9 months ago
Another excellent video my friend! Im doing a boost leak test right now! :-p
CamCommandatore 9 months ago
Good video. I just got a 16G in the mail from a guy on a webforum. he wants me to take a look at it and rebuild it but I can already tell that it may be be salvagable. It's locked and the turbine wheel along with the compressor wheel have rubbed the housings. More than likely the ringlands for the thrust bearing and turbine oil seal are going to be shot - turbine shafts don't rub unless they're out of balance over overboosted. This thing looks new but has signs on eBay all over it.
ProjectCarTV 9 months ago
@Jafromobile - Good demonstration. One thing to remember about porting the inside of the scroll/tongue is to make sure that you never port evenly on the flapper/wastegate side of the the inside of the scroll. Never make the upper and lower parallel with each other. You always want to port the upper edge (looking down the scroll) a mm or so more than the lower so you leave a step on the lower inside edge. This way the exhaust gas has a lip that it hits and directs it out of the wategate.
ProjectCarTV 9 months ago
@ProjectCarTV If the upper and lower are parallel with each other, you'll more than likely have issues maintaining consistant boost as you'll have issues with boost creep/spike. The problem is that keeping the upper and lower parallel allows the exhaust gas to continue down the scroll rather than being directed out of the wastegate hole when the flapper opens. It doesn't have to be much - only a mm or so - size of a clipped thumbnail. Just make sure you port the upper inside edge slightly.
ProjectCarTV 9 months ago
keep the videos comin. love goin through all these vids and often use them for reference.
csuther123 9 months ago
good job jafro keep it up bro. would it have been easier to see your surface contact usen machinist's dye ? did you just pollish the trasition or are you porting that as well?
domestickilla 9 months ago