@haleycbrrr - I don't use the plugs (OEM or NGK) designed for the 4.0L, I only the picked the NGKs based on heat range and then modified the plugs to suit my needs.
@Dodgeoffroadfreak - There's alot more to the sound, the headers, the ported head, the size of the exhaust and length of each section before and after the muffler plays into effect of the exhaust sound. Its taken years to get it like this.
@FrEAkWaRE Would you mind sharing your secrets with the "length" part of the exhaust? This is by the the best sounding TJ I've heard. I have an aftermarket header and just bought a 99+ intake manifold and have a CAI already (Volant)... I'm considering porting the manifold (Did yours yourself). But I'd love to get mine to sound this throaty. Thanks!
@JeepingJeepster At the collector on the Header it is 2.5" till the flange at the end of the Header then after the flange where the header meets the down pipe it reduces to 2.25" diameter for about 18", then goes back to 2.5", then the 2.5" pipe continues back to the transfer case skid and right behind the skid is where the Muffler is then continues up and over the axle and out the back.
I need to get new video of the jeep up, the exhuast is still the same but I've since upgraded to a long arm suspension and cut off all the shock mounts and welded on all long travel shock mounts, it has 14" of travel with Bilstein 5100s. And I'm currently running Goodyear Duratracs.
Second question after reading through comments, you mentioned necking down to 2.25 from the header to the cat and then 2.5 from the muffler. this improved your performance as opposed to running just 2.5? Im trying to wring every bit of performance from my 4.0 before i stroke it and consider forced induction afterwards.
@TrailsOfFire1 - With the neck down then back up: the headers exit is 2.25, I originally added 2.5" behind that and ran that, but I lost some Torque, so necking down for 1-2ft gives the engine just a little more scavenging back-pressure and allows you the large exhaust diameter farther back for a throatier rumble. On the dyno, it bumped my Torque back up.
@TrailsOfFire1 ohh ok, I understand cool. I was going to do the same thing, run 2.5 the whole way back, but now i won't. Thanks for the detailed feedback on my questions! :thumbs up:
nice rig man. nice to see someone taking care of all the little things instead of throwing on a CAI and a catback and calling it a day. im in the process of doing similar mods, but w/ a YJ. Question, in your video you said your plugs were "indexed and side gapped." I'm not familiar with that term, could you elaborate please?
@TrailsOfFire1 - Indexed plugs are just when you take the time to physically aim the spark plug in the direction of the center of the combustion chamber. You can use spark plug index washers from Jeg's or other performance shop. I mark the side of the external spark plub with a black magic marker where the electrode side is and that is what you want pointed away from the center of the combustion chamber. When the spark ignites it has a clear path to burn all air/fuel, if the electrode is pointed
at the center when the air/fuel ignites it has to travel around the electrode creating a dead spot behind the electrode and two flame fronts, that collide.
@xPR3TZ3Lx - Avast to criticize, where as I like to analyze: No insult intended to you but I will explain: Notice at 0:46 there is a weld line where the last 10" of exhaust is welded on? I've crushed it twice, and it doesn't take me long to weld on another piece of exhaust pipe. The farther back the exhaust exit goes the less of an interior drone as the exhaust waves exit without hitting any frame/body/items that would resonate. And I am not claiming I have no interior drone, but it reduces it.
Just an update on the G2 Currie Dana 44 rear axle with the Auburn Ected locker, even when the electric locker is off it acts as a posi-locker. And a strong one too, It use to spin in 1 and 2 gears and chirp in 3rd. Now it just launches.
I have nearly the same setup in my 98, but its a cherokee,but I would probably try slappin a 2 and a quarter tailpipe on if you have a highflow cat,you'd be amazed at the difference. I really appreciate what your doin,keepin it mopar, no hard on chevy 350 bullshit, but I wanted to cry when you said you put royal purple in there and a 180 stat. a 4.O loves mineral oil. the timing depends on it.....I know your not stock tuned but.....running mineral and lucas oil is chrysler way
THANKS! I catch slack modifying the straight 6 but I'm a huge fan of it. Thanks for the info; I'll research Mineral oil and lucas oil. I'm way ahead of yea on the exhaust. After the header it necks down to 2.25" for 18" to support the low end torque and the proper exhaust speed for scavenging and necks back up to the 2.5" after that to lower the exhaust gas speed to get a lower tone back at the muffler. It does not act as if its ran with 2.5" because of the temporary reduction in size.
very nice w the 2.25 after the header, most header collectors should be 2.25,mike leach and some australian copmany used to do it right......yeah I actually meant to run 2.5 from the cat to the muffler, then 2.25 behind it to speed the gas back up so u can keep speed and backpressure at once, but I know it sounds deeper the way u did it, no doubt. I did mine the way I said and I get 23 mpg at 2150 rpms, and it will smoke alot of mustangs from o-45 no problem,lol
mineral oil is just regular oil,not synthetic. most older chrysler's generally dont like synthetic, its too slippery and causes timing issues,especially the 4.O. its actually written in the drivers manual. u cant switch back now anyways, so....but if u ever do it again.....my advice is try running a 4.0 w 10-30 at 4.75quarts then add a half quart of lucas oil and deliberately run it a third quart low on oil,sumtimes the lil6 isn't happy pushing around all that oil,and it'll just burn it harder
Thanks for all the info, I'm researching mineral oil and lucas oil. I have had the engine open so many times, I can switch oils and replace the rings/seals no-problem. I'm lookin for a spare block to stroke anyway. I'll look into running it a 1/3 quart low too, my only concern with that is in the higher RPMs when the 4liter is screamin; I believe I have ran the sump dry one time, just momentarily dry for a second or two max. But good input! Thanks!!
damn, you really are the man!!u oughta think about being an engineer on a tugboat!! yeah,I most deffinitely wouldn't run the tad low oil in the woods,my bad, I do that on roadtrips where I I drive like 800 miles and end up wheeling only after driving250 miles to get there,lol....
Recently I removed the Dana 35 and replaced it with a Currie G2 Dana 44 with USA Alloy Chromoly shafts and an Auburn Ected Locker. Also added a Powertrax no-slip locker in the front temporarily until I put a G2 Dana 44 w/Ected in the front this spring/summer.
The springs are the 2.5" progressive rate coils from rough country, the front has a 1" coil spacer the rear has a 1/2" coil spacer to reduce the rake, it has all adjustable rough country control arms, adjustable front and rear track bars and rough country sway bar disconnects. Rough country 2.2 shocks.
Thanks and I hear ya, I've owned it since it was new in 1999 and I drive it daily to work. I've done MTs in the past, but they wear too quickly. I'd go threw 2 sets of mud terrains in less than 2 years. I've had the current ATs on for the last 2 years and there is still plenty of tread. I'll have another set of wheels and tires (Mickey Thomp. Baja with Cragar soft silvers) to hit the more aggressive trails. It still does very well aired down to 15psi at the local offroad parks around here.
Yes, the biggest improvements I would rate would be the 99+ intake on the 98 engine, the head work, then the Superchips flashpaq, not only the performance, but the amount of stuff I can do with the programmer, change spark advance, rev limiters, MAX mpg tune, read and clear DTCs, adjust idle, and more..
do you find that the NGKs are better than the factory installed champions?
haleycbrrr 2 months ago
@haleycbrrr - I don't use the plugs (OEM or NGK) designed for the 4.0L, I only the picked the NGKs based on heat range and then modified the plugs to suit my needs.
FrEAkWaRE 2 months ago in playlist Uploaded videos
so there's no cat? could i get this sound out of just getting a super 40?
Dodgeoffroadfreak 8 months ago
@Dodgeoffroadfreak - There's alot more to the sound, the headers, the ported head, the size of the exhaust and length of each section before and after the muffler plays into effect of the exhaust sound. Its taken years to get it like this.
FrEAkWaRE 8 months ago
@FrEAkWaRE Would you mind sharing your secrets with the "length" part of the exhaust? This is by the the best sounding TJ I've heard. I have an aftermarket header and just bought a 99+ intake manifold and have a CAI already (Volant)... I'm considering porting the manifold (Did yours yourself). But I'd love to get mine to sound this throaty. Thanks!
JeepingJeepster 5 months ago
@JeepingJeepster At the collector on the Header it is 2.5" till the flange at the end of the Header then after the flange where the header meets the down pipe it reduces to 2.25" diameter for about 18", then goes back to 2.5", then the 2.5" pipe continues back to the transfer case skid and right behind the skid is where the Muffler is then continues up and over the axle and out the back.
FrEAkWaRE 5 months ago
i got a question i have a 2004 tj an i was wondering where you baught your bumper at
jessesluder1 9 months ago
@jessesluder1 Rough Country but it may be discontinued. I have welded additional supports to it, but that one was a good starting platform.
FrEAkWaRE 9 months ago
I need to get new video of the jeep up, the exhuast is still the same but I've since upgraded to a long arm suspension and cut off all the shock mounts and welded on all long travel shock mounts, it has 14" of travel with Bilstein 5100s. And I'm currently running Goodyear Duratracs.
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
@FrEAkWaRE Nice Jeep!
99DDrake 8 months ago
Second question after reading through comments, you mentioned necking down to 2.25 from the header to the cat and then 2.5 from the muffler. this improved your performance as opposed to running just 2.5? Im trying to wring every bit of performance from my 4.0 before i stroke it and consider forced induction afterwards.
TrailsOfFire1 1 year ago
@TrailsOfFire1 - With the neck down then back up: the headers exit is 2.25, I originally added 2.5" behind that and ran that, but I lost some Torque, so necking down for 1-2ft gives the engine just a little more scavenging back-pressure and allows you the large exhaust diameter farther back for a throatier rumble. On the dyno, it bumped my Torque back up.
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
@TrailsOfFire1 ohh ok, I understand cool. I was going to do the same thing, run 2.5 the whole way back, but now i won't. Thanks for the detailed feedback on my questions! :thumbs up:
TrailsOfFire1 1 year ago
@TrailsOfFire1 - Goodluck
FrEAkWaRE 8 months ago
nice rig man. nice to see someone taking care of all the little things instead of throwing on a CAI and a catback and calling it a day. im in the process of doing similar mods, but w/ a YJ. Question, in your video you said your plugs were "indexed and side gapped." I'm not familiar with that term, could you elaborate please?
TrailsOfFire1 1 year ago
@TrailsOfFire1 - Indexed plugs are just when you take the time to physically aim the spark plug in the direction of the center of the combustion chamber. You can use spark plug index washers from Jeg's or other performance shop. I mark the side of the external spark plub with a black magic marker where the electrode side is and that is what you want pointed away from the center of the combustion chamber. When the spark ignites it has a clear path to burn all air/fuel, if the electrode is pointed
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
at the center when the air/fuel ignites it has to travel around the electrode creating a dead spot behind the electrode and two flame fronts, that collide.
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
That's a cool video and a nice jeep.
rangerdanger222 1 year ago
Wow! Sick Jeep dude! Cheers!
ihatevegans 1 year ago
lets hope that nice exauhst doesnt get crushed under that rear bumper! You might want to consider dumping it before the bumper.
xPR3TZ3Lx 1 year ago
@xPR3TZ3Lx - Avast to criticize, where as I like to analyze: No insult intended to you but I will explain: Notice at 0:46 there is a weld line where the last 10" of exhaust is welded on? I've crushed it twice, and it doesn't take me long to weld on another piece of exhaust pipe. The farther back the exhaust exit goes the less of an interior drone as the exhaust waves exit without hitting any frame/body/items that would resonate. And I am not claiming I have no interior drone, but it reduces it.
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
Just an update on the G2 Currie Dana 44 rear axle with the Auburn Ected locker, even when the electric locker is off it acts as a posi-locker. And a strong one too, It use to spin in 1 and 2 gears and chirp in 3rd. Now it just launches.
FrEAkWaRE 1 year ago
Dude that's a sick Jeep
lonegunman69 1 year ago
Dude your Dana 35 is totally rocking!
btarrh 2 years ago
You mean the Dana 44?? The 35 is gone to the junkyard!!
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
I like that last little message about gettin off the computer and going jeeping. 5 stars for that and the awesome pics/video.
mattbjrs 2 years ago
I have nearly the same setup in my 98, but its a cherokee,but I would probably try slappin a 2 and a quarter tailpipe on if you have a highflow cat,you'd be amazed at the difference. I really appreciate what your doin,keepin it mopar, no hard on chevy 350 bullshit, but I wanted to cry when you said you put royal purple in there and a 180 stat. a 4.O loves mineral oil. the timing depends on it.....I know your not stock tuned but.....running mineral and lucas oil is chrysler way
negrodamus1000 2 years ago
THANKS! I catch slack modifying the straight 6 but I'm a huge fan of it. Thanks for the info; I'll research Mineral oil and lucas oil. I'm way ahead of yea on the exhaust. After the header it necks down to 2.25" for 18" to support the low end torque and the proper exhaust speed for scavenging and necks back up to the 2.5" after that to lower the exhaust gas speed to get a lower tone back at the muffler. It does not act as if its ran with 2.5" because of the temporary reduction in size.
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
very nice w the 2.25 after the header, most header collectors should be 2.25,mike leach and some australian copmany used to do it right......yeah I actually meant to run 2.5 from the cat to the muffler, then 2.25 behind it to speed the gas back up so u can keep speed and backpressure at once, but I know it sounds deeper the way u did it, no doubt. I did mine the way I said and I get 23 mpg at 2150 rpms, and it will smoke alot of mustangs from o-45 no problem,lol
negrodamus1000 2 years ago
mineral oil is just regular oil,not synthetic. most older chrysler's generally dont like synthetic, its too slippery and causes timing issues,especially the 4.O. its actually written in the drivers manual. u cant switch back now anyways, so....but if u ever do it again.....my advice is try running a 4.0 w 10-30 at 4.75quarts then add a half quart of lucas oil and deliberately run it a third quart low on oil,sumtimes the lil6 isn't happy pushing around all that oil,and it'll just burn it harder
negrodamus1000 2 years ago
Thanks for all the info, I'm researching mineral oil and lucas oil. I have had the engine open so many times, I can switch oils and replace the rings/seals no-problem. I'm lookin for a spare block to stroke anyway. I'll look into running it a 1/3 quart low too, my only concern with that is in the higher RPMs when the 4liter is screamin; I believe I have ran the sump dry one time, just momentarily dry for a second or two max. But good input! Thanks!!
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
damn, you really are the man!!u oughta think about being an engineer on a tugboat!! yeah,I most deffinitely wouldn't run the tad low oil in the woods,my bad, I do that on roadtrips where I I drive like 800 miles and end up wheeling only after driving250 miles to get there,lol....
negrodamus1000 2 years ago
Recently I removed the Dana 35 and replaced it with a Currie G2 Dana 44 with USA Alloy Chromoly shafts and an Auburn Ected Locker. Also added a Powertrax no-slip locker in the front temporarily until I put a G2 Dana 44 w/Ected in the front this spring/summer.
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
what kind of lift you have on that
stryker0306 2 years ago
The springs are the 2.5" progressive rate coils from rough country, the front has a 1" coil spacer the rear has a 1/2" coil spacer to reduce the rake, it has all adjustable rough country control arms, adjustable front and rear track bars and rough country sway bar disconnects. Rough country 2.2 shocks.
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
nice sound
1000sheilds 2 years ago
that is a very nice build. My only recommendation is more aggressive tires to make it look mean. everything is nice though!
robnevile 2 years ago
Thanks and I hear ya, I've owned it since it was new in 1999 and I drive it daily to work. I've done MTs in the past, but they wear too quickly. I'd go threw 2 sets of mud terrains in less than 2 years. I've had the current ATs on for the last 2 years and there is still plenty of tread. I'll have another set of wheels and tires (Mickey Thomp. Baja with Cragar soft silvers) to hit the more aggressive trails. It still does very well aired down to 15psi at the local offroad parks around here.
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
did u notice power difference with the superchip programmer?
andrewsvids 2 years ago
Yes, the biggest improvements I would rate would be the 99+ intake on the 98 engine, the head work, then the Superchips flashpaq, not only the performance, but the amount of stuff I can do with the programmer, change spark advance, rev limiters, MAX mpg tune, read and clear DTCs, adjust idle, and more..
FrEAkWaRE 2 years ago
cool. im gonna order one soon for my 03 tj. then comes the headers and hi flow cats
andrewsvids 2 years ago