great work! he forgot to put the niple on before he flare'd it! and also there's a 10 times better method of measuring the lines 100% you just unscrew the niples and remove it gently so that the shape is still how it used to be, THEN you're gonna use tape to line it up right beside the old brakeline and bend it exactly the same way. Then put on both niples on each side and THEN flare it, congratulations! :D
I saw the first flare (when you used the small dye) but what about the second flare?? what that when you used the clamp head by itself? or did you use another one of those dyes??
My flares are coming out fine. My problem is that my fitting gets hung up around where the bottom of my flaring die sat. It won't marry up to the flare - stops about an inch from it. Is there any way to fix/avoid this?
Look at most shops use now and it is not the manual version.Most use the mastercool set which is $400.00 and worth it.Speeds up the process making flares.
look mr hack, you didnt debur the hole, first,2 the proportioning valve has nothing to do with it,3 no one can do an exact factory match to the origianl line,4you can have an extra 2 feet and it wont make a difference and you need a bit of extra in case your first flare does not work, 3 enginners are a joke, other wise cars and everything else would not have so many problems,4 not deburning can cost some one their life, your not a mechanic ,and if you are you should be band from working on cars
Very important step missed in this vid: Before you flare the tube, deburr and chamfer both edges of the tube. To deburr the inside edge, use a drill or file and rotate in the opening of the tube. The outside edge can be done with a standard file. Tube cracking &/ or flow restriction is caused when the tube is not properly deburred.
@KevinMillard68 : IMHO; It's a good idea to make new break line length relatively close to the original.
Altering the length = Altering the original engineering design.
If this wasn't true, your vehicle's breaking system wouldn't need a "proportioning valve". Key word is "proportioning", not just a basic "junction". Think about it.
@DonTerhune1200cc Actually the line length make no real difference in the system except needing less volume of fluid to operate and it looks cleaner/more professional. The proportioning valve is used to regulate the amount of pressure applied front to back, effectively putting more of the applied pressure on the front brakes than the rear. This is needed do to the front breaks doing most of the cars stopping.
@BlackFlagProperty I own a cheap set from Canadian Tire. I believe it's master craft brand so I don't know who actually makes it. If you make sure you tighten the clamp all the way you can, slipping isn't an issue, although with regular use it may become an issue. There is evidence that even though it's tight as hell it slips about 1/2mm - 1mm When you're using only 2mm-3mm this can cause problems. My $30 kit does single/double but not bubble flare. There was a $30 bubble kit.
Thanks for the video, Even though I needed some more detail, I continue to watch multiple clips till I know what the hell Im doing!! so, Add yours to the others and its very helpful, thanks again
Great video, however you should also elaborate on the types of flares for different vehicles. Some European models, such as old mercs (W201, W124), use a totally different flaring style. The style used is dependent on the joint piece and the nut. For example, the nut has a straight surface its usually an indication for a flat 180-degree F-flare... cannot be replaced by the double E-flare you showed. I just want to point out, since these pices are safety-critical
Thanks about that video . The information i need about it is there . The quality image and détails are better than some other video ... Like my repair to do "Its do the Job!!"
he forgot to mention that after you cut the line you need to ream it to remove any burrs that may be inside plus he doesnt know the proper names of the flaring tool parts check out my flaring video (how to make brake line repairs) ill be adding a video about abs soom
HEY DAVE CAN YOU HELP ME OUT WITH SOMETHING IF MY REAR BRAKE LINES PIERCE CAN I WELD THE FITTING AT THE MASTER CYLINDER TO CASNCEL OUT THAT BRAKE plz help me
HEY CAN YOU HELP ME OUT WITH SOMETHING IF MY REAR BRAKE LINES PIERCE CAN I WELD THE FITTING AT THE MASTER CYLINDER TO CASNCEL OUT THAT BRAKE plz help me
great work! he forgot to put the niple on before he flare'd it! and also there's a 10 times better method of measuring the lines 100% you just unscrew the niples and remove it gently so that the shape is still how it used to be, THEN you're gonna use tape to line it up right beside the old brakeline and bend it exactly the same way. Then put on both niples on each side and THEN flare it, congratulations! :D
hamburgerkongen 2 days ago
Its a DIE not a dye
bblazeff1 1 month ago
I saw the first flare (when you used the small dye) but what about the second flare?? what that when you used the clamp head by itself? or did you use another one of those dyes??
preprodigy 3 months ago
My flares are coming out fine. My problem is that my fitting gets hung up around where the bottom of my flaring die sat. It won't marry up to the flare - stops about an inch from it. Is there any way to fix/avoid this?
jhonea005 4 months ago
you work harden the tube end with a pipe cutter, and you did not debur the inside of the line, hmmm
DannerDesigns 7 months ago
I would have debarred the inside of the line before I flared it...
billyphx2001 7 months ago
good stuff i hate his voice though
djjerrylee1 8 months ago
Will this type of tool work on steel or Kunifer brake pipe ?? thanks!
saphcosmike 9 months ago
Will this type of tool work on steel or Kunifer brake pipe ?? thanks!
saphcosmike 9 months ago
never striaghten the line that is not a good idea..
IbanezGuitarz87 9 months ago
ya, that the first thing I said to myself. Never straighten it. measure end bend it to match.
mikebtte 10 months ago
Look at most shops use now and it is not the manual version.Most use the mastercool set which is $400.00 and worth it.Speeds up the process making flares.
wafrederick 1 year ago
look mr hack, you didnt debur the hole, first,2 the proportioning valve has nothing to do with it,3 no one can do an exact factory match to the origianl line,4you can have an extra 2 feet and it wont make a difference and you need a bit of extra in case your first flare does not work, 3 enginners are a joke, other wise cars and everything else would not have so many problems,4 not deburning can cost some one their life, your not a mechanic ,and if you are you should be band from working on cars
KevinMillard68 1 year ago
Very important step missed in this vid: Before you flare the tube, deburr and chamfer both edges of the tube. To deburr the inside edge, use a drill or file and rotate in the opening of the tube. The outside edge can be done with a standard file. Tube cracking &/ or flow restriction is caused when the tube is not properly deburred.
DonTerhune1200cc 1 year ago
you forgot to ream the hole before putting the die in , thank god i know how to do this the proper way already,,
KevinMillard68 1 year ago
Just use a piece of string to measure how long the line is, that way you don't loose your old pipe bends to make your new line the same
jamesjamz 1 year ago 3
for what you cut off you should have just used the whole length.
KevinMillard68 1 year ago
@KevinMillard68 : IMHO; It's a good idea to make new break line length relatively close to the original.
Altering the length = Altering the original engineering design.
If this wasn't true, your vehicle's breaking system wouldn't need a "proportioning valve". Key word is "proportioning", not just a basic "junction". Think about it.
DonTerhune1200cc 1 year ago
@DonTerhune1200cc Actually the line length make no real difference in the system except needing less volume of fluid to operate and it looks cleaner/more professional. The proportioning valve is used to regulate the amount of pressure applied front to back, effectively putting more of the applied pressure on the front brakes than the rear. This is needed do to the front breaks doing most of the cars stopping.
Bentlyband22 11 months ago
just like so what a homo he said it like 5 times lol
ryan01backe 1 year ago
"just like so" lol
raynard7 1 year ago 10
@raynard7 yes just like so lo.
hp11208 3 months ago
Why did he skip step 2 and go right to the finished product? How is someone supposed to learn from that?
MORPHEUSou812 1 year ago
Awesome!
SecularResponse 1 year ago
these flaring tools are CR@P!!!! they suck!
peetsjunkie 2 years ago
@peetsjunkie That's the difference between $30 and $80 flaring tools.
TheWrinkledCheese 1 year ago
@TheWrinkledCheese about 50 bucks. Just kidding! The $80 set probably does double flare ends.
BlackFlagProperty 1 year ago
@BlackFlagProperty I own a cheap set from Canadian Tire. I believe it's master craft brand so I don't know who actually makes it. If you make sure you tighten the clamp all the way you can, slipping isn't an issue, although with regular use it may become an issue. There is evidence that even though it's tight as hell it slips about 1/2mm - 1mm When you're using only 2mm-3mm this can cause problems. My $30 kit does single/double but not bubble flare. There was a $30 bubble kit.
TheWrinkledCheese 1 year ago
@peetsjunkie Pluse you can learn how to trick the cheap ones into working.
TheWrinkledCheese 1 year ago
Comment removed
TheWrinkledCheese 1 year ago
Thanks for the video, Even though I needed some more detail, I continue to watch multiple clips till I know what the hell Im doing!! so, Add yours to the others and its very helpful, thanks again
haywyre75 2 years ago
lol I wouldnt feel safe doing this myself. I would probably do it wrong and my breaks would work.
ironmonnkey15 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Great info ..Thanks!!!!
buddo1999 2 years ago
What about reaming the inside of the line right after cutting it with the pipe cutter?
Ruler2009 2 years ago
Great video, however you should also elaborate on the types of flares for different vehicles. Some European models, such as old mercs (W201, W124), use a totally different flaring style. The style used is dependent on the joint piece and the nut. For example, the nut has a straight surface its usually an indication for a flat 180-degree F-flare... cannot be replaced by the double E-flare you showed. I just want to point out, since these pices are safety-critical
treideme 2 years ago
Good video man, thank you for the info,
dragonkc 2 years ago
yeaaahhh that dude is right about the other dude. droping everithing bad dude bad!
maxestuardo 2 years ago
great vid thanks ..
beelstylez 2 years ago
You forgot to ream it and I got tired of the shameless close-ups on your package.
chompychomps 2 years ago
Thanks about that video . The information i need about it is there . The quality image and détails are better than some other video ... Like my repair to do "Its do the Job!!"
jflecool 2 years ago
he forgot to mention that after you cut the line you need to ream it to remove any burrs that may be inside plus he doesnt know the proper names of the flaring tool parts check out my flaring video (how to make brake line repairs) ill be adding a video about abs soom
fatman2325 2 years ago
Comment removed
sculptureattack 3 years ago
dont straighten the line out to measure the length. You will lose your point of reference for the shape of the line. just measure it
jasont120476 3 years ago 16
This has been flagged as spam show
HEY DAVE CAN YOU HELP ME OUT WITH SOMETHING IF MY REAR BRAKE LINES PIERCE CAN I WELD THE FITTING AT THE MASTER CYLINDER TO CASNCEL OUT THAT BRAKE plz help me
davison1021 3 years ago
Thank you for the helpful videos !
ShastaSutras 3 years ago
this dude doesnt know what hes doin. droppin everything, in the other video looked like he stripped the fitting to the hose
that1bmxguy06 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
HEY CAN YOU HELP ME OUT WITH SOMETHING IF MY REAR BRAKE LINES PIERCE CAN I WELD THE FITTING AT THE MASTER CYLINDER TO CASNCEL OUT THAT BRAKE plz help me
davison1021 3 years ago