There is no sheet for the ribbon cables. They stay fixed in place after they are disconnected. The photo in Step #12 of the 450D modification instructions has labels for all of the ribbon cables that need to be disconnected. For help with the modification, consider joining the Yahoo discussion group "DSLRmodifications".
this is amazing. i am new to astro and ive had a canon eos t1i 500d for quite some time. i am soon to acquire all the expensive equipment for shooting deepsky. ive done a lot of research about everything being a stargazer but i wanted to ask since im moving into photos what is the baader and full spectrum, which should i choose and why are they necessary to mod the camera? this looks really fun haha and seems needed. sry i didnt get lucky enough finding your email.
Either a "Baader" or "Full Spectrum" modification will pass the important h-alpha wavength at nearly 100% for astro imaging. I'm working on a YouTube video to explain the advantages of each. You can find my email address on my modification web site as a graphic. If you email me, I can send more information.
this camera beast!! i use most for time-lapse photography. i just need to trigger it with this little remote: TEMPUS. works with MEX 5, 5N and 7. website at: tempus.bymac.org
When the original IR cut filter (LPF#2) is removed in a "Baader" modification, it quite often breaks while prying it loose from being glued in it's plastic frame. Even if it comes out in one piece, it has been stressed and should not be reused. When the front piezoelectric filter (LPF#1) filter is removed for a "Full Spectrum" mod, it is held in with a metal clip and can be reused, especially for those that have damaged their front filter or to replace a very dirty one.
Assuming I have high hope for the sensors to be dust free without the filters, Couldn't I just attach the Baader filter as an external cap over the lens? That would fix the autofocus function, no?
Thanks for sharing your excellent work btw!!!, ghonis.
Replacing the orginal filters without adding a replacement filter in the same location inside the camera body, will not correct AF. Adding a replacement filter as an external cap over the lens, will not correct AF. The replacement glass of the appropriate thickness needs to be located between the camera's flip mirror and the sensor to return AF to normal. Even adding a clip-in type replacement filter inside the camera body will not correct AF. More here: DSLRmodifications yahoo group.
@wowcolors Yes, you can remove both original Canon filters in the camera body to convert the camera to Full Spectrum. Both filters need to be removed because both block infrared light. But, there are two concerns when not installing a clear glass replacement. First, the camera's autofocus function will no longer work, nor will you be able to focus using the camera's viewfinder. The other problem is the front surface of the CMOS imaging sensor will be directly exposed to dust contamination.
Sorry, not in the Canon user manual, but detailed instructions are now posted for all four Canon models: 450D (XSi), 500D (T1i), 550D (T2i) and 1000D (XS). Your original Canon warranty will be void of course.
It is a problem to find glass that thin. 1.0mm is a more common thin glass thickness from suppliers. Baader in Germany is the only one producing a 0.57mm glass infrared blocking replacement at this time for a reasonable price.
Other suppliers can provide a similar size and thickness glass but their costs are very high.
Good point for not dropping those small screws! I do magnetize the driver by rubbing its tip on a speaker magnet. It does loose it's magnetism over time, I think in part because I keep it along with other tools in a metal case.
I've done quite a few of these mods myself mostly on 300D. I experienced two problems and thought I'd share them here. The one big problem was on my 3rd mod using a metal pick that had a fairly sharp end to remove the ribbon cables. One of the ribbon cables came out of its socket all at once and the pick slipped and punctured the cable. Lesson learned: use a wood pick with a slightly dull tip. The other problem was minor but one of the hinged connectors broke at the hinge.
One more thing I just remembered. On my first mod I used a little too much glue in one corner and it squished out leaving a tiny spot in the top right corner of my images. Use a VERY small amount of glue.
The procedure for the 350D would be more similar to that of the 300D. YouTube doesn't allow posting links in comments but you can do a Google search using "ghonis2 300d" as the search term.
For a guide specific to the 350D, use the search term: "ash's modified".
For UltraViolet light (UV) it would be best to replace the original IR cut filter (LPF#2)and also the anti-aliasing filter (LPF#1) with a clear glass filter. I have tested an earlier Canon DSLR model, the 300D with a clear glass replacerment using a UV pass filter for imaging the planet Venus and it worked well. The orignal Canon UV/IR cut filter that is removed during the modification cuts off ultra-violet light at about 360nm wavelength.
You can do infrared with an unmodified 1000D using an infrared filter. The problem is that since DSLRs have an infrared blocking filter inside the camera and in the exposure path, there is only a small amount of infrared light that makes it to the imaging chip. But if you use long exposures you can take infrared images of still objects like landscapes. Using a tripod and a fast lens like the 50mm f1.8 would help. You could get the Hoya R72 and have some fun with it on your unmodified camera.
im thinking of getting an IR filter for my 1000d but after seeing your video and reading some stuff on the web im starting to wonder if its gonna work on the cannon eos 1000d by it self or do i have to go through this proccess?
how much is that camera and the cost to modifi it ?
taflking 4 days ago
Hi Garry, nice website ;-)
I just bought a Canon 450D and want to modify it.
I found the sheet "450D DSLR Modification Instructions" for the screws.
But i can't find the sheet for the ribbon clables you talk about in this movie ? ;)
Can you help me with these ?
Bye Danny
Broertje2005 1 week ago
Hi Danny,
There is no sheet for the ribbon cables. They stay fixed in place after they are disconnected. The photo in Step #12 of the 450D modification instructions has labels for all of the ribbon cables that need to be disconnected. For help with the modification, consider joining the Yahoo discussion group "DSLRmodifications".
Gary
ghonis 1 week ago
@ghonis Hi Gary, i'll see it now ;-)
Thanks for the fast reply and tips.
Bye Danny
Broertje2005 1 week ago
thanks for showing that, now i can totally give up on doing it myself
telly0050 1 week ago
this is amazing. i am new to astro and ive had a canon eos t1i 500d for quite some time. i am soon to acquire all the expensive equipment for shooting deepsky. ive done a lot of research about everything being a stargazer but i wanted to ask since im moving into photos what is the baader and full spectrum, which should i choose and why are they necessary to mod the camera? this looks really fun haha and seems needed. sry i didnt get lucky enough finding your email.
dustcost 1 month ago
@dustcost
Either a "Baader" or "Full Spectrum" modification will pass the important h-alpha wavength at nearly 100% for astro imaging. I'm working on a YouTube video to explain the advantages of each. You can find my email address on my modification web site as a graphic. If you email me, I can send more information.
ghonis 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
this camera beast!! i use most for time-lapse photography. i just need to trigger it with this little remote: TEMPUS. works with MEX 5, 5N and 7. website at: tempus.bymac.org
bymacorg19 2 months ago
he make's it look simple
i don't think i'll bother
45comando 2 months ago
Ah so much work. I'm scared to even attempt this. If I screw up, I'm out $800 lol
evomination 4 months ago
die gute kamera. kommen dir da nicht die tränen ;-( ?
meine gute eos !
OceanTango1 7 months ago
hmm ..searching for a clear glass replacement...
OK2BCK 11 months ago
@OK2BCK
For Astronomik MC Clear Glass replacements see: ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod450d18.html
ghonis 11 months ago
anyone else think he sounds like stephen hawking> got that computery sounding voice
Roaningdotcom 11 months ago
Hello, I got a question. After removing the IR filter.. Do you return the filter to the customer? or you recycle it.
galaxy45 1 year ago
When the original IR cut filter (LPF#2) is removed in a "Baader" modification, it quite often breaks while prying it loose from being glued in it's plastic frame. Even if it comes out in one piece, it has been stressed and should not be reused. When the front piezoelectric filter (LPF#1) filter is removed for a "Full Spectrum" mod, it is held in with a metal clip and can be reused, especially for those that have damaged their front filter or to replace a very dirty one.
ghonis 1 year ago
got any examples of how it works?
spr00sem00se 1 year ago
@spr00sem00se
Yes, I have a gallery of astro images. Links aren't allowed here so just google "Gary Honis"
ghonis 1 year ago
uncle sam!
ripper497 1 year ago
Assuming I have high hope for the sensors to be dust free without the filters, Couldn't I just attach the Baader filter as an external cap over the lens? That would fix the autofocus function, no?
Thanks for sharing your excellent work btw!!!, ghonis.
timlyg 1 year ago
Replacing the orginal filters without adding a replacement filter in the same location inside the camera body, will not correct AF. Adding a replacement filter as an external cap over the lens, will not correct AF. The replacement glass of the appropriate thickness needs to be located between the camera's flip mirror and the sensor to return AF to normal. Even adding a clip-in type replacement filter inside the camera body will not correct AF. More here: DSLRmodifications yahoo group.
ghonis 1 year ago
@ghonis I see...I sure will look into the yahoo group. Sounds like it's more of a pressure thing than a visual thing. Thanks!!!
timlyg 1 year ago
Why is a clear glass needed for full spectrum mod? Why can't you just remove the factory IR filter and not put anything in it's place?
wowcolors 1 year ago
@wowcolors Yes, you can remove both original Canon filters in the camera body to convert the camera to Full Spectrum. Both filters need to be removed because both block infrared light. But, there are two concerns when not installing a clear glass replacement. First, the camera's autofocus function will no longer work, nor will you be able to focus using the camera's viewfinder. The other problem is the front surface of the CMOS imaging sensor will be directly exposed to dust contamination.
ghonis 1 year ago
I was thinking of using my dslr for astrophotography, Wouldn't this mod void the warranty? Is it necessary Thanks
airbus001 1 year ago
@airbus001 Yes, the Canon warranty is void as soon as you open up the camera.
Gary
ghonis 1 year ago
@ghonis Thanks, If I do not remove the low-pass filter all the pictures will be missing some red colors right?
airbus001 1 year ago
so, er, which page of the Canon manual is this mod on?
elvis8burgers 1 year ago
Sorry, not in the Canon user manual, but detailed instructions are now posted for all four Canon models: 450D (XSi), 500D (T1i), 550D (T2i) and 1000D (XS). Your original Canon warranty will be void of course.
ghonis 1 year ago
Can you help me...??? my AF indicator is't glowing... i use 1000d...
alexadjust 1 year ago
hi. ghonis, i had my done the modification and replace with clear glass,
im using 650nm filter, which custom white balance should i choose? white? taking grass picture with filter on? or how?
sancheez13 1 year ago
hi. ghonis, i had my done the modification and replace with clear glass,
im using 650nm filter, which custom white balance should i choose? white? taking grass picture with filter on? or how?
sancheez13 1 year ago
can i just take off the ir cut filter and replace nothing?
sancheez13 1 year ago
what is the size and thickness of the glass for ir cut filter replacement on 450D?
anyone? please?
sancheez13 1 year ago
The thickness of both the original IR cut filter and the replacement filter for the 450D is .57mm and the size is 19.2mm X 26.7mm.
Gary
ghonis 1 year ago
@ghonis the thickness is 0.57mm? so thin? where to find this kind of glass?
sancheez13 1 year ago
It is a problem to find glass that thin. 1.0mm is a more common thin glass thickness from suppliers. Baader in Germany is the only one producing a 0.57mm glass infrared blocking replacement at this time for a reasonable price.
Other suppliers can provide a similar size and thickness glass but their costs are very high.
Gary
ghonis 1 year ago
@ghonis what do you mean by both? that's mean i must take off two of the ir cut filter and replace?
sancheez13 1 year ago
Narration by Robocop :)
FirebrandNIRE 1 year ago 12
screw this
nikbookworm 1 year ago
@nikbookworm jk
nikbookworm 1 year ago
You don't seem to use a magnetic screwdriver. Any specific reason for that? :)
Velodynamic 1 year ago
Good point for not dropping those small screws! I do magnetize the driver by rubbing its tip on a speaker magnet. It does loose it's magnetism over time, I think in part because I keep it along with other tools in a metal case.
ghonis 1 year ago
@Velodynamic
Using a magnetic screwdriver could damage the hardware in the camera
killer120070507 1 year ago
I've done quite a few of these mods myself mostly on 300D. I experienced two problems and thought I'd share them here. The one big problem was on my 3rd mod using a metal pick that had a fairly sharp end to remove the ribbon cables. One of the ribbon cables came out of its socket all at once and the pick slipped and punctured the cable. Lesson learned: use a wood pick with a slightly dull tip. The other problem was minor but one of the hinged connectors broke at the hinge.
JeffreyJaguar 2 years ago
One more thing I just remembered. On my first mod I used a little too much glue in one corner and it squished out leaving a tiny spot in the top right corner of my images. Use a VERY small amount of glue.
JeffreyJaguar 2 years ago
Gary,
do you think my 350D might be almost the same as the 450D ?
Terry
Thouchins 2 years ago
Terry,
The procedure for the 350D would be more similar to that of the 300D. YouTube doesn't allow posting links in comments but you can do a Google search using "ghonis2 300d" as the search term.
For a guide specific to the 350D, use the search term: "ash's modified".
Hope that helps,
Gary
ghonis 2 years ago
How about the other side of the visible spectrum?
Where is the sensor's limit in picking UV light?
OK2BCK 2 years ago
For UltraViolet light (UV) it would be best to replace the original IR cut filter (LPF#2)and also the anti-aliasing filter (LPF#1) with a clear glass filter. I have tested an earlier Canon DSLR model, the 300D with a clear glass replacerment using a UV pass filter for imaging the planet Venus and it worked well. The orignal Canon UV/IR cut filter that is removed during the modification cuts off ultra-violet light at about 360nm wavelength.
ghonis 2 years ago
You can do infrared with an unmodified 1000D using an infrared filter. The problem is that since DSLRs have an infrared blocking filter inside the camera and in the exposure path, there is only a small amount of infrared light that makes it to the imaging chip. But if you use long exposures you can take infrared images of still objects like landscapes. Using a tripod and a fast lens like the 50mm f1.8 would help. You could get the Hoya R72 and have some fun with it on your unmodified camera.
ghonis 2 years ago
im thinking of getting an IR filter for my 1000d but after seeing your video and reading some stuff on the web im starting to wonder if its gonna work on the cannon eos 1000d by it self or do i have to go through this proccess?
vidaroui 2 years ago