If you've tried everything else and still wishing to remove the post you can try this method: apply (if you haven't already) plenty of WD40 every now and then and go on like that for a couple of days, find a big tree and carefully tie one end of it on to a metal part on your saddle post and the other to your car. Start real slow and as smoothly as possible. It is a bullet proof method if done as described.
you can apply heat...i don't know where that myth started out. Alu does expand far faster, but the expansion and then letting it cool the contracting tends to break up the corrosion. You can combine it with the pipe freeze stuff plumbers use!
Anyway that said...caustic soda or ammonia , it takes about 10 days to eat through it but it does the job. Only for steel framed bikes though obviously! Sheldon brown is king.
if it's a straight post without a seat attachment assembley built into it that fixes to the seat &the seat keeps coming off instead of the post coming out, then slide an old spoke down inside to find the end of the post inside the seatpost tube. make a mark on the spoke when you find the end of the post. this gives you the distance that the post is in the seatpost tube. if its a short post then wd40 it some more & pound it down inside the post tube till there's enough room to slide in a new post
nope. leave the bike upright, spray the post where it fits into the seat post tube with wd-40, let it penetrate for 5 minutes, spray it again and let it sit for a couple more, make sure the seat is totally wrenched on the post securely, lay the bike flat on the ground, put on some good grip shoes, sit on your ass, find a place on the frame near the bb and rear triangle to put your feet, start muscling it out. if it moves side to side just once, you're on your way & way less time&free workout.
Thanks for that info, my Rory Obrien has sufferd the same fate! Aluminium post is welded in there. Im now resorting to the costic soda or a hacksaw, the only problem is the ally post has a strenthening support that runs through the hole length of the tube!!
I got 48 spline cranks siezed on :(
Spenlard 2 months ago
thanks for posting, that's really useful. how many hours do you think it took you to remove?
antfrogboy 2 months ago
induction heat coil. I think a body shop has them and they will heat it up and the two metals will expand at different temperatures.
groovygoolie 2 months ago
Note: you should use a hauling rope or a hauling dolly for the job Don't try with ordinary rope.
vineyardst1 6 months ago
If you've tried everything else and still wishing to remove the post you can try this method: apply (if you haven't already) plenty of WD40 every now and then and go on like that for a couple of days, find a big tree and carefully tie one end of it on to a metal part on your saddle post and the other to your car. Start real slow and as smoothly as possible. It is a bullet proof method if done as described.
vineyardst1 6 months ago
you can apply heat...i don't know where that myth started out. Alu does expand far faster, but the expansion and then letting it cool the contracting tends to break up the corrosion. You can combine it with the pipe freeze stuff plumbers use!
Anyway that said...caustic soda or ammonia , it takes about 10 days to eat through it but it does the job. Only for steel framed bikes though obviously! Sheldon brown is king.
batley1 7 months ago
if it's a straight post without a seat attachment assembley built into it that fixes to the seat &the seat keeps coming off instead of the post coming out, then slide an old spoke down inside to find the end of the post inside the seatpost tube. make a mark on the spoke when you find the end of the post. this gives you the distance that the post is in the seatpost tube. if its a short post then wd40 it some more & pound it down inside the post tube till there's enough room to slide in a new post
BUSTRCHERRY 11 months ago
nope. leave the bike upright, spray the post where it fits into the seat post tube with wd-40, let it penetrate for 5 minutes, spray it again and let it sit for a couple more, make sure the seat is totally wrenched on the post securely, lay the bike flat on the ground, put on some good grip shoes, sit on your ass, find a place on the frame near the bb and rear triangle to put your feet, start muscling it out. if it moves side to side just once, you're on your way & way less time&free workout.
BUSTRCHERRY 11 months ago
Thanks for that info, my Rory Obrien has sufferd the same fate! Aluminium post is welded in there. Im now resorting to the costic soda or a hacksaw, the only problem is the ally post has a strenthening support that runs through the hole length of the tube!!
ruaur1 1 year ago
I've just spent a good hour and a half on my stuck seat pillar.
trogedon 1 year ago
my seat pole stuck in my mb and it right in the the top sticking out any help on gettting it up ?
BamitZzU 1 year ago
hey my road bike is stuck on the highest gear on the front..i cant move it or change gears can you help?
tas620 1 year ago
I have a similar Trek from I believe 1983, same look, does aluminum actually expand ?
vatovega 1 year ago
Thanks for sharing...I am going to have to resort to trying this.
texas254club 1 year ago
nice
bencorgan 2 years ago