Added: 4 years ago
From: timseepots
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  • You have wonderful work in your Etsy shop!

  • @missretrosnob Well thank you!

  • have you tried liquid latex? You have to remove it before the firing but it works well.

  • What about Glazing with a brush dont you have any methods on how to glaze with brushes because not many people have that big of amounts of glaze to cover their whole piece with.

  • What is wax?

  • buggers.....ewwww

  • @shayneohlsen *boogers

  • u pick ur nose..........ewwwwwwwwwwwwwww­wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww­wwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

  • Thanks, Tim. A very useful and well presented demonstration.

  • its really not necessary to ruin a brush and try and clean it when applying wax, just use your finger...

  • hey i love your work, Just had one question, how come your pots are so expensive?

  • @jonkasper9, Most potters and artists price with their heart or some complex system of cost and profit. I price to what the market will handle. If a kind of piece sells quicker than I can make them I raise my price till the market responds with decreased sales. I have a very unique touch to my work and people are willing to pay for great work. I hope that helps Tim

    PS if you have a question about a particular style or piece I will focus the explanation.

  • @timseepots yeah that makes sense, are woodfired pots worth more than electric kiln or gas kiln firings?

  • To get wax off of your pot, I know of two ways.

    You can use a torch to burn it off.

    Or...

    You can sand it off with sand paper.

    Hope this helps someone.

  • i thought u couldn't glaze the bottum unless u high glaze did u? and what do u need to high glaze

  • Im not sure what high glaze is.

  • What kind of clay body do you usually use when you're doing your throwing demos? I've always been most comfortable with really groggy clays, but I'm trying to make the switch to smoother stonewares - it's hard for me, the clay being more malleable, I'm used to working really hard to throw, I think I abuse the smoother clays too much.

  • I use many different clays from raku clay to porcelain, 04 to 13. I do not have a preference for what clay I use throwing I do have a preference on the texture and color when I am decorating or firing and make my clay choices based of the look i want and not how easy or hard it is to throw it.

  • Hi Tim.

    Your video's are very helpful THANK YOU!! I just had a question on cleaning the bottoms of the pots. At our studio they make us clean 1/4 way up the side of the pot and everything off the bottom, do you need a completely clean bottom or is that just a rule they have in place for the kiln shelf

    Thank you again!

  • Well a rule is a rule when you are in someone else's studio. but when you have your own kiln you would not need to clean that much of the side of your pot and the glaze in the corner of the foot underneath shouldn't run either.

  • Is it possible to take glaze off bisqueware if you've gotten it on too thick and re-glaze? (guess why I'm asking)

  • Indeed just wet it and scrub under running water. wait till its all the way dry again. like a day or too and next time make a foot you can hold on to. =)

  • Thank you, Tim!

  • I've been using the wipe-off technique too. But lately I have been using some very grainy/sandy clays and the glaze isn't coming off very well. I'm a little concerned about putting these pieces in my kiln. Do you have any suggestions?

  • Well I would say that the issue is then in the trimming. If you burnish the foot ring smooth you can wipe it off easily. It will also make the pots a little more clean and sharp. Even if you have the grog trails and such still if you wipe them off the glaze that is left should not be an issue the worst it would do is stick to the kilnwash and that can be scraped easy enough. goodluck.

  • I thought I pretty well knew how to glaze, but still learned something new. Thanks

  • Thanks for breaking your bowl.

  • I can't find you on esty. I would love to see your stuff there can you post a link to it

  • I never use tongs - I learned a while back that they're more trouble than they're worth. I do wax, because I'm expected to, but I hate it. Thanks for giving me permission not to wax.

  • A method that works for me for removing small amounts of unwanted wax is to simply burn it away with a torch.

    I don't know if you wax is different, if so it may not work for you.

    Liam =-)

  • I didn't understand if you was totally against wax for everything or if you preferred the sponge "always" over the wax? I prefer using a sponge, or even a wet horse hair paint brush for the bottom of smaller things.

  • It was interesting you showed the waxing and all the problems that may arise from using the product, and then a sponge. Its just one of those payoffs from going to school or consulting experts. It saves you time. Smart video.

  • Tim why do you not glaze the bottom? As you can tell I'm starting out.

  • If it runs or drips or melts between the foot and the kiln shelf it can wreck a piece

  • That makes sense. Thanks for answering my "rookie" question

  • all questions are good questions.

  • ok thank you very much that was very helpful!!!!!!!!!! :)

  • so if i wanted to get a kiln for glazing pots what size should i be looking for. The whole cone thing is confusing me maybe you could help me out thanks

    mike

  • well you will be bisquing in it too. cones are like integers think of any cone with a 0 in front of it as a negative #. as the number increases as in 04 05 06 the tempature/time value decreases without a 0 in front of the cone number means the temp/time value increases with value cone 10 is hotter than cone 6. the size is determined by how large you want to work and how often you want to fire. the larger the kiln Cu/ft the more efficient keeping all other specs constant.

  • thanks tim! when you cleaned up the bottom there is a little bit of glaze around the edge of the foot ring...do you usually leave this or clean this off as well?

  • it shouldnt melt enough to run so i end up leaving it.

  • Thanks Tim. I was thinking more from an aesthetics point of view. Not criticism, just wondering what you take on this is...I am fairly new and don't have an opinion one way or the other.

  • When I am doing my own work I only have two glazes clear and green. The pieces that I do with clear have a deep foot and the whole bottom is left glazed just the foot is cleaned and the green (celedon) makes a nice line in the groove of the foot. And dont worry about criticism we all need it. Tim

  • When I am doing my own work I only have two glazes clear and green. The pieces that I do with clear have a deep foot and the whole bottom is left glazed just the foot is cleaned and the green (celedon) makes a nice line in the groove of the foot. And dont worry about criticism we all need it. Tim

  • thanks!

  • Hi Tim, Thankyou for all the great instruction! Any tips on actually preparing a glaze from a recipe? I have no experience actually making a glaze. they were always prepared for us. I now have my own small studio at home. The books i have make it seem a bit overwhelming. I believe I will start with some ready made glazes to begin with. I fire to cone 6, mostly functional ware. thanks.

    Sue.

  • Sue you can purchase glazes that are dry and mix them, you can also find a recipe and mix them but you will need ingredients and measuring devices. or you develop your own. for that though i would take a class or discuss it with someone that has done it before. Tim

  • Do you ever use hot wax?

  • Nope Not a fan of the wax

  • Yeah, I feel a little embarassed for asking. I asked at the beginning of the video, after which your opinion on wax was very clearly shown. (I agree, by the way) Anyway, Thnaks for answering my dumb question. :-)

  • the only dumb questions are the ones not asked.

  • How do you remove any drip marks that appear when glazing? The first few pieces I glazed had drip marks. I went over it with my fingers and a damn, not wet-wet but a damp sponge but the problem is that it removes glaze making it thinner in those sections when all I wanted was to remove the drip patterns. BTW, I mix with my hands in the glaze too so I can get a better feel of the sediment in the bottom of the bucket. I broke up glaze sediment in a couple glaze buckets. It's easier by hand...

  • I wouldnt worry about any drips I let them be most of the time you wouldnt know they were there or they add to it. Tim

  • Hi Tim, I learned to dip a pot in water quickly before glazing so as not to absorb too much glaze. I notice you don't do this. So it's not necessary?

    Love all your videos. Have been doing pottery for years and still learning.

  • Our glazes are mixed with enough water to not have to include that step. the less steps the better.

  • Hey Tim, I use a wet dry vac. to hold the base. My pots don't have a raise foot.

    Cheers, Andrew.

  • those silly wet dry vacs. I have seen the suction method in a CM or a book, never thought about doing it. Get a video of that on here and you will have a fan. Tim

  • tim;

    Thanks for all your videos. Been teaching for 20 years and always love to learn something new! Keep em coming.

    Michelle

  • This video was very helpful.. thanks for making it. Do you use a hydrometer to mix glaze or do you just wing it? If you make glazes, I'd love to see a video of that.

    As always, great video.

    PS- I don't like wax on the bottom either, but sometimes it is fun to use on the pot for effects, eh?

  • Tim, can I use this wax resist in an electric kiln??? (That's all I have)

  • yeah but like all electric kilns your is vented right?

  • Well if you consider having the doors to my studio wide open and the kiln sitting right in front of them venting, yes! its vented!!!!

  • glazing inside and outside will be in another video.

  • Tim, this is cool, but could you please show us how to glaze with two glazes on the inside and outside?And what if we have bigger pots that don't fit into the glaze container?

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