I used gEDA PCB and it's GCode export. I've also used pcb2gcode and the Eagle plugin pcbgcode with also great success.
Most converters are simply just image tracers that take the gerber output, render it to a high-res bitmap and trace the edges. I've yet to find one that actually does a vector to gcode conversion. Circular pads are made up of tiny lines (G1) instead of using gcode's arcs and circles.
gEDA PCB takes some getting use too but it's very good. I like the text file formats.
I've since used a four sided cutter and also dialled out the backlash on the machine, the problems are all pretty much resolved now. Just a scrub and done.
Etching is just so messy. I previously used UV and I still have all the equipment too but there isn't much like sticking a piece in the mill walking away and coming back and having a board all routed out and square. The thing I hated most with toner transfer was getting the design aligned on the board, even cutting the PCB was a pain.
Turns out the failed board work just fine, the shorts where from micro-fine links around the header solder pads where the mill didn't connect up with the previous cut. They where so thin I couldn't see them until I put the board up against the light and used a magnifying glass! So the beautiful failure now works a treat!
Has a solder bridge under the device I can't seem to fix. About 8 pins are shorted to the left over copper. The chip is fine just have to get it back off the board. :/
Have no luck with attempts number 10 and 11. Machine has a backlash problem that I can fix until I get a dial gauge and set up some backlash compensation. 0.5mm tracks are pushing the limits of this machine I'm afraid. Needs better screws and a rebuild.
Add a flap of tape to the bit and it'll make a wind to blow off the swarf.
therealjammit 13 hours ago
Is that a water-cooled spindle?
douro20 2 days ago
what cnc platform is this? widgitmaster?
jpmorgan187 3 weeks ago
@jpmorgan187 yes it's a widgitmaster midi with a wolfgang engineering spindle.
randomgarfield 3 weeks ago
this rocks, this is the first time iv seen pcb cnc routing milling, whats the most inexpensive way to do this ?
canonmeth 1 week ago
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what kind of an cutter or engraver are you using?
matasmax14 2 months ago
from where did you get this machine ? and for how much ??
adeelrizvi2 2 months ago
Nice! I'd recommend rotating your design 90 degrees so you get longer routing lines, avoiding slowdown due to accelleration/decelleration.
novec001 3 months ago
try a 15 degree cutter
dukelanovic 4 months ago
I used gEDA PCB and it's GCode export. I've also used pcb2gcode and the Eagle plugin pcbgcode with also great success.
Most converters are simply just image tracers that take the gerber output, render it to a high-res bitmap and trace the edges. I've yet to find one that actually does a vector to gcode conversion. Circular pads are made up of tiny lines (G1) instead of using gcode's arcs and circles.
gEDA PCB takes some getting use too but it's very good. I like the text file formats.
randomgarfield 11 months ago
What software are you using to create the PCB and GCode?
JayDMDigital 11 months ago
I've since used a four sided cutter and also dialled out the backlash on the machine, the problems are all pretty much resolved now. Just a scrub and done.
Etching is just so messy. I previously used UV and I still have all the equipment too but there isn't much like sticking a piece in the mill walking away and coming back and having a board all routed out and square. The thing I hated most with toner transfer was getting the design aligned on the board, even cutting the PCB was a pain.
randomgarfield 11 months ago
I had a PCB made for me with the milling method once but after having to clean up whiskers etc for over an hour, never again.
Toner transfer done properly with a laminator at 170 degrees (and that's the secret) works perfectly.
Yes it takes longer, but I find the results are worth it. So far I have done 0.2mm traces, and it looks like even 0.1mm should be easily attainable.
The Photoresist\UV method is also very good, easier to get right but requires more materials and is more expensive.
Tda7000 11 months ago
Turns out the failed board work just fine, the shorts where from micro-fine links around the header solder pads where the mill didn't connect up with the previous cut. They where so thin I couldn't see them until I put the board up against the light and used a magnifying glass! So the beautiful failure now works a treat!
randomgarfield 1 year ago
Need to get me one of those one of these days!
whisk0r 1 year ago
Has a solder bridge under the device I can't seem to fix. About 8 pins are shorted to the left over copper. The chip is fine just have to get it back off the board. :/
Have no luck with attempts number 10 and 11. Machine has a backlash problem that I can fix until I get a dial gauge and set up some backlash compensation. 0.5mm tracks are pushing the limits of this machine I'm afraid. Needs better screws and a rebuild.
randomgarfield 1 year ago
That's pretty fine work!
Why is the other one dead? Shorted or cooked device?
vk2zay 1 year ago